DIY Altoids bottom feeder

[JohnnyDill]

I was bored this weekend so I decided to see if I could build a bottom feeder with materials on hand.
An existing atty I never used much was modified by drilling out the positive pin in the right places. {used a lathe}
510 connection: Positive pin drilled out with a drilled RCA jack pin soldered on.
Battery box: solid hardwood carved out with a vertical mill. Solid copper contacts for battery and spring loaded for negative.
AWG 12 fine strand wire soldered from negative copper contact to 510 negative to ensure solid current flow.
.016" brass feeler gauge with a copper MIG welder tip section soldered on for mechanical switch direct to battery positive.
Fire button is a 1/4" bolt with hex turned down smooth. Plastic block drilled to safely insulate button from ground.

I think that's it. I put an O-ring between the atty and 510 and there is no leaks so a drip well seems not needed. It hits HARD!
It is actually just a dimensional study for a "better" bottom feed box that will be machined from solid aluminum. Fun stuff!

I recommend that you have sound knowledge regarding how mods work before attempting anything such as this.

 

[disturbed1]

Vary nice and creative.

 

[JohnnyDill]

Oh. Another thing. When I first started experimenting with what to use for battery contacts, I tried some Harbor Freight neodymium magnets. They solder fine and stick well to the battery, but they GET HOT when current goes though them and once hot, current flow suffers, bigtime. I have seen thread discussion regarding using magnets at times. I can attest that this is a BAD IDEA. Don't do it!

 

[Quigsworth]

Diggin' the mech batt. masher switch...one thing that may lessen the vdrop (though you probably don't have much), the tin box isn't the best when it comes to conductivity...

nice job.

 

[Visus]

Oh. Another thing. When I first started experimenting with what to use for battery contacts, I tried some Harbor Freight neodymium magnets. They solder fine and stick well to the battery, but they GET HOT when current goes though them and once hot, current flow suffers, bigtime. I have seen thread discussion regarding using magnets at times. I can attest that this is a BAD IDEA. Don't do it!

Ya put a thin silver solder mask over each from wire at contact end and they do much better. Still may not as good as your other switch but will work better then maybe oxidized the magnet when soldered them more than likely.

 

[JohnnyDill]

Diggin' the mech batt. masher switch...one thing that may lessen the vdrop (though you probably don't have much), the tin box isn't the best when it comes to conductivity...

nice job.

I have a stranded AWG 14 copper speaker wire soldered between the battery negative copper terminal and the negative 510. I figured that the tin box conductivity would be poor. You can't see the wire as it goes under the battery box to the atty. This thing hits like a champ!

{Wire is visible in pic #4 to the left and is wrapped completely around the 510 and soldered}

 

[GMayberry]

Can you possibly give some closer pictures of the switch and the connection below the 510?

 

[JohnnyDill]

I used a .015" brass feeler guage for a mechanical switch. On the 510 side, I drilled a .125" hole and soldered this to the juice tube, which is an RCA lug that was hollowed out.

On the other side of the feeler guage, I soldered a .25" round copper contact to the feeler guage so it can contact the + battery terminal directly when the button is pressed.

I sort of copied the function of how a Reo works....... So I take zero credit for the design. I was just being "resourceful" and made this with available stuff and things.

This box does not rely on the tin for any of the current flow. There is a 14 guage copper wire going from 510 negative to the battery negative so it hits REAL hard.
PM me if you need any more info. More than glad to help anyone here on ECF.

 

[JohnnyDill]

The Altoids box has been improved! The Arlo build showed me how convenient it is to have a charging board built in, so I put one in this mod.

The battery box was completely re-done to make room for the charging board. I went through all the trouble with the light pipe thing, only to find out the LED lights up the juice!

It looks pretty cool in dim light when it is charging. Not worried at all regarding the proximity of the board to the liquid feed, as nothing has ever leaked whatsoever on this mod.

This has turned into a functional study for an upcoming mech box that will be machined from aluminum.

 

[CMD-Ky]

JohnnyDill, I am asking for a bit of advice. What switch did you use in that tin?

 

[JohnnyDill]

JohnnyDill, I am asking for a bit of advice. What switch did you use in that tin?

Post #8 shows the switch details. It functions like a Reo so the "switch" is different than most.

 

[cocuZZa00]

That's so cool. I love the creativity

 

[MFarley]

Thank You for posting this along with all the photos.