DNA 133 not holding a profile

[MikeB]

So my dna took a drop last night from a night stand, all of 2-1/2 feet, and today it won't hold my profile.

I have a profile setup on slot 5 for SS316L, and when in use I have it set to show the profile name "316L" at the bottom of the display and I normally vape around 480F.

Now it's just shows "20.0w", and I have it turned down to 230F and it's still cooking the coil giving a scorched taste if I hold the button down too long. It's like it's in wattage mode. I keep turning it down but it's no use. I checked the coil screws and they're tight, as is the kf5 to the device.

I hooked it up the Escribe and downloaded the settings. They were all correct, so I uploaded them back to the device. It worked! It vaped fine for a while.

After sitting for a bit and firing it back up though, I'm back to the same problem. It's like my profile settings aren't there. I can select other profiles and they look right, but none are for this material.

So... I'm back in wattage mode, which sucks after being used to TC.

This is a lost vape Therion 133, with a kayfun 5 authentic.

Any ideas??? Are these boards just that fragile? Why is it partially working, and why does my profile become lost or weird after it sleeps?

 

[Falco78]

It's all just a guess but I'd think it's just a fragile board that happened to land in a way that just didn't work

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[Eskie]

About the only thing I can think of trying is going into eScribe and under utilities diagnostic there are options to do a soft and hard reset of the mod. If that doesn't work contact Evolv as they're excellent about servicing their boards as that is the most likely spot for that type of problem.


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[MikeB]

Fixed (I think).

Once I got home from work I did some more testing. I setup a different profile slot (4) to my 316L settings, and it worked perfectly. Pulling and replacing the batteries caused no problem.

The old profile slot (5) continued to show the same symptoms. As before, the settings on the bad profile looked fine, and uploading them back to the device fixed the profile until the device slept or got the batteries pulled. Then the symptoms returned. At this point, my belief was there was a bad spot in memory for that profile.

Out of curiosity, I saved my profile for the working slot (4) to the computer, and loaded it over the bad slot (5), and uploaded them back to the device. After doing this the symptoms completely disappeared. Pulling the batteries no longer makes it go bad.

My only guess is something got scrambled somehow on profile slot 5 when it was dropped (it was active at the time), and although the settings looked fine they weren't. Uploading them back to the device provided only a temporary fix, and the profile needed a fresh overwrite. This seems an outlandish and far fetched theory to me, but I can't deny that it's working now and I can't recreate the problem.

The only thing I can't test is if the settings will hold after it sleeps. I can't force it to sleep, and I haven't left it alone long enough to sleep. I guess we'll see.

 

[Eskie]

That's weird. It's not like the profile slot is a physical object, but I guess the software has a burp. As long as everything is back to normal I wouldn't worry too much. If it does happen again that software reset may help. Good luck!


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[MikeB]

That's weird. It's not like the profile slot is a physical object, but I guess the software has a burp. As long as everything is back to normal I wouldn't worry too much. If it does happen again that software reset may help. Good luck!


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That was my thought too. These profiles are probably all stored on one chip. I can't wrap my head around how this happened. Software burp is as good a description as any.

As long as it keeps working, I'm happy though.

Oh, and it's since gone to sleep, woken up and been fine too. So that's good news.

 

[MikeB]

That's weird. It's not like the profile slot is a physical object, but I guess the software has a burp. As long as everything is back to normal I wouldn't worry too much. If it does happen again that software reset may help. Good luck!


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So it started having the same issues again, but this time on profile 4. Bear with me. After much fiddling I decided to just consider the Therion broken, so I put my KF5 on my Hcigar VT75 and ... I had immediate problems!

I couldn't set the temp over ~230F or it was cooking. I checked the device monitor in Escribe and it wouldn't even chart the temp curve. On the bar to the left, temperature was shown with a "?". I threw my backup KF5 (as yet unused) on the VT75 and the temp curve appeared and I could set it back into normal temp ranges again. I flip-flopped the two KF5's back and forth with the same results again and again. Then i put the new KF5 on the Therion and now the Therion is working fine. Flip-flopping KF5's on the Therion produced similar results, except that the DNA200 chip would still try to chart the temp, only it was reading it crazy -- 180F at 20W on the "bad" KF5. On the new KF5 though, it was behaving normally.

I'm taking both devices, the Therion and VT75, with me to work tomorrow just in case, along with the new KF5, but my assumption is the old KF5 is damaged in some way that is severely messing with TC. That would explain why the issues were so intermittent, and bad connections are usually the issue with TC too it seems.

Would you agree the KF5 is likely the culprit? It did fall, but it doesn't look damaged and what could mess up an RBA so bad that it would still fire, but screw up TC so completely? What should I look for when trying to fix it? Cracked insulator?

Thanks for any input or ideas. This has been crazy to troubleshoot.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Sounds like you may have broken the insulator on your Kayfun. Luckily those are inexpensive and replaceable.

Who has two authentics by the way? lol

I don't remember all the details but when I did the research people who had both said that the SJMY clone has better insulators (PEEK..?) than the authentic KF5 so you might want to look in to non-authentic ones to replace it with.

But to be sure just check the one in your suspect KF5, if I'm right it's part nr. 12:

 

[Eskie]

Yeah I would second that. You reproduced the problem as well as establishing the Therion is otherwise fine. @OhTheAgony is likely calling it correct on the insulator as a likely source.

A few weeks ago while traveling I dropped my CF 4 with a Triton mini on top. The glass survived but the top deck of the mod bent and the tank was at a 5 degree angle. Somehow the 510 was still ok and I could continue to vape the setup but I'm still afraid there may be some internal damage I can't see so the battery is out and it's in the back of the drawer. Weird damage can happen, but hopefully repairable on your tank.


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[MikeB]

Who has two authentics by the way? lol

Lol, well... I really like the KF5 and I believe in redundancy I guess.

Sounds like you may have broken the insulator on your Kayfun. Luckily those are inexpensive and replaceable.

I don't remember all the details but when I did the research people who had both said that the SJMY clone has better insulators (PEEK..?) than the authentic KF5 so you might want to look in to non-authentic ones to replace it with.

But to be sure just check the one in your suspect KF5, if I'm right it's part nr. 12:

Yeah I would second that. You reproduced the problem as well as establishing the Therion is otherwise fine. @OhTheAgony is likely calling it correct on the insulator as a likely source.

On it. Sounds like a plan. Probably won't get to it until this weekend, but I'll report back what I find.

Sorry to hear about your CF4, Eskie. Hopefully that'll be salvageable.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Lol, well... I really like the KF5 and I believe in redundancy I guess.

Me too, I have 4 clones, but those cost me less then you paid for one

Have fun tinkering anyway. Make sure you don't over-tighten part nr. 6 when you put everything back together. That's been known to crack the relative fragile insulator.

 

[Dubminer]

So it started having the same issues again, but this time on profile 4. Bear with me. After much fiddling I decided to just consider the Therion broken, so I put my KF5 on my Hcigar VT75 and ... I had immediate problems!

I couldn't set the temp over ~230F or it was cooking. I checked the device monitor in Escribe and it wouldn't even chart the temp curve. On the bar to the left, temperature was shown with a "?". I threw my backup KF5 (as yet unused) on the VT75 and the temp curve appeared and I could set it back into normal temp ranges again. I flip-flopped the two KF5's back and forth with the same results again and again. Then i put the new KF5 on the Therion and now the Therion is working fine. Flip-flopping KF5's on the Therion produced similar results, except that the DNA200 chip would still try to chart the temp, only it was reading it crazy -- 180F at 20W on the "bad" KF5. On the new KF5 though, it was behaving normally.

I'm taking both devices, the Therion and VT75, with me to work tomorrow just in case, along with the new KF5, but my assumption is the old KF5 is damaged in some way that is severely messing with TC. That would explain why the issues were so intermittent, and bad connections are usually the issue with TC too it seems.

Would you agree the KF5 is likely the culprit? It did fall, but it doesn't look damaged and what could mess up an RBA so bad that it would still fire, but screw up TC so completely? What should I look for when trying to fix it? Cracked insulator?

Thanks for any input or ideas. This has been crazy to troubleshoot.

@MikeB. I had a similar problem after dropping one of my kf v5 clones off the night stand.It turned out part #2, the 510 insulator was sheared off.Easy fix authentic available here from origin vape.

Kayfun 5 Replacement Insulator Kit - Make your tank last!

 

[MikeB]

@Eskie
@OhTheAgony
@Dubminer

We'll, I've taken it apart down to the bones, and I can't find anything wrong. See the picture. It shows parts #2, #7, and #12. Big #9 made it into the shot as well, but doesn't matter. I don't even see a hairline crack on these parts. I don't see any broken or bent screws or metal parts either.

I'm at a loss. This KF5 was clearly the problem. It created problems on both my Therion and VT75, which were reproducible by switching back and forth between this "bad" KF5 and a "good" one. Further, I've been running my Therion for several days now on this "good" tank without even a hiccup. TC is rock solid.

Any theories? It was dropped, but as I've said, I can't find any damage, and I checked the screw posts and 510 at the time of the issues. What do you think the problem is or was, and where do I go from here? Just clean and reassemble?

 

[Dubminer]

@Eskie
@OhTheAgony
@Dubminer

We'll, I've taken it apart down to the bones, and I can't find anything wrong. See the picture. It shows parts #2, #7, and #12. Big #9 made it into the shot as well, but doesn't matter. I don't even see a hairline crack on these parts. I don't see any broken or bent screws or metal parts either.

I'm at a loss. This KF5 was clearly the problem. It created problems on both my Therion and VT75, which were reproducible by switching back and forth between this "bad" KF5 and a "good" one. Further, I've been running my Therion for several days now on this "good" tank without even a hiccup. TC is rock solid.

Any theories? It was dropped, but as I've said, I can't find any damage, and I checked the screw posts and 510 at the time of the issues. What do you think the problem is or was, and where do I go from here? Just clean and reassemble?

You got me stumped,i would reassemble and try it again.When i dropped mine it had taken the little lip off the part #2,it was so small i could not see it without a magnifiying glass,just a tiny sliver of plastic.

 

[Eskie]

Yeah, this one is a puzzler. I would have bet on that insulator too. I would reassemble. If all's well, yay. If not, something has to be just slightly out of alignment enough to give you problems without being readily visible without an electron microscope. Problems like these suck, but at least your Therion is OK. That's good, right?

 

[MikeB]

You got me stumped,i would reassemble and try it again.When i dropped mine it had taken the little lip off the part #2,it was so small i could not see it without a magnifiying glass,just a tiny sliver of plastic.

I may need to get out a magnifying glass and really inspect these then.

 

[MikeB]

Yeah, this one is a puzzler. I would have bet on that insulator too. I would reassemble. If all's well, yay. If not, something has to be just slightly out of alignment enough to give you problems without being readily visible without an electron microscope. Problems like these suck, but at least your Therion is OK. That's good, right?

Haha, yes indeed, the Therion being ok is a major relief.

I suppose something could have become loose, or maybe shifted when it fell. Small connection issues can cause major TC problems in my experience. I suppose it just could have been something not readily visible, or something that righted itself during the disassembly process.

I'm soaking and cleaning all the parts now, and when I'm done I'll inspect them and put it back together. Maybe that'll be enough to fix whatever it is or was. If not, then like you said it could be a micro-alignment issue that just can't be seen to be fixed. If so maybe I'll get a clone as a backup this time. That'll make OhTheAgony happy.

 

[OhTheAgony]

Oops, I'm a bit late to the party.

I wouldn't have anything to add to the other guys though. Put it back together and cross your fingers.

Haha, you got that backwards, that clone will make YOU happy. But if you're happy I'm happy, so in a way...

Go for the SJMY version, they sell 'm at 3fvape. I have all three well known brands and it's the best!

 

[MikeB]

@Eskie
@OhTheAgony
@Dubminer

It took a while for me to get around to it, but I reassembled the KF5, and its been vaping great for about 48hrs now. I have no idea at all what went wrong with it, but I have a theory.

If you recall, all the insulators were fine but something was certainly wrong with the RTA because TC was as unstable as imaginable. Also, before I decided on disassembly I installed a new coil and wick, and checked the bottom post screw. All were good, but TC was still crazy. My current theory is that maybe during the fall something got loosened or knocked out of alignment on a micro scale that I couldn't see, but was enough to cause intermittent shorts and cause TC to fail. I can't say what it was, but since disassembling and reassembling the KF5 fixed this issue, I feel confident I can say that internal connections were the issue. For me this just drives home the idea that 90% of TC issues are connections, as I was told when I started out with TC.

Again, thanks for all your help and input! You guys are always great, and the TC forum would be dismal without you. Also, Not that I like to have problems, but it is interesting to see how they resolve.

Go for the SJMY version, they sell 'm at 3fvape. I have all three well known brands and it's the best!

You know, both my authentics are working now, but I may just pick up a SJMY anyway. Never hurts to have more.

 

[Eskie]

Glad it worked out, both for the mod and the tank. Breaking the tank down, putting it all back together and having it all working reminds me of the old reboot the PC if something isn't going right. 90% of the time that'll solve the problem, whatever it was.

Yes, it had to be an internal connection. I'm just glad it wasn't the insulator, although finding a replacement for that isn't too bad with the KFs. On other tanks a cracked insulator means the trash can. Enjoy your vape and a Happy New Year.