I'm currently rockin out a dna 20 powered MVP v1 but I'm planning on making a custom wooden box mod to put all the guts in. I've got all the plans drawn up except one snag I'm drawing a blank on how to correctly fit the input output and switch located on the bottom of the MVP in my custom box mod. Since I'll be using 1/4in wood which is much thicker than the metal plates on the MVP I'm not sure how to proceed any ideas or suggestions would be awesome! Thanks guys!
DNA 20 help!
- Thread starter Chase Pinkerton
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Um ... what? Are you saying someone modded an MVP to hold a DNA20 chip and you are looking to move it to a custom made mod box? If you are talking about a standard MVP, they are not DNA20 mods, they are an Innokin design.
Regardless, have you considered backing the metal plate on the bottom with wood and installing it that way? Leaving the metal plate on it will give you stability and everything is already mounted on it.
Just a thought ...
Regardless, have you considered backing the metal plate on the bottom with wood and installing it that way? Leaving the metal plate on it will give you stability and everything is already mounted on it.
Just a thought ...
It's an MVP that's been modded to hold the DNA 20 board. My issue is that the 1/4 in wood I'll be using is considerably thicker than the thin metal used on the body of the MVP so the plate wouldn't match up flush. And if I just use a Dremel to cut out the holes for for the plug ins and the switch they wouldn't be able to be accessed because they would be 1/4" back and the chargers wouldn't be able to be plugged in. I could always cut the holes big enough to let the head of the chargers fit in as well but I was just seeing if anyone else had a solution
Ah, that makes sense, can you not inset the bottom metal plate into a 1/4" piece of wood, or something similar? So it would be "carved out" kind of to make the plate sit down into the wood flush ... Just really seems like the easiest way to do it. The other thought would be to make holes for the stuff on the bottom plate, mount them from the back until they are flush with the wood, then fill in the backside with hot glue or epoxy to hold in place and seal them in. Of course, that might make it a bit more difficult to remove if you decide to change the housing again later ...
HTH
I didn't put the adjustment buttons back in because the bottom one was broke. And I planned on just buying new ones and soldering them in
No problem, I'm glad I could help. I really like the look of the DNA20 MVP pic, that is awesome! I wish I had the time to build one, I so want a DNA20 mod ... Sadly I can't afford to buy one, the local shop has a used one they and they want $250 for it ... For that I could get a new futura!
It vapes like nothing I've ever seen! And I love the MVP platform because it still uses the 2600mah MVP battery and at 18w it lasts me about 12 hours. Vapor shark has a real nice one that's only like 160 but the battery is to small for me I'd sacrifice size for battery life anyday
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Yeah, me too ... Guess my VTR is just gonna have to do for now ... Someday though I'll have a nice DNA20, Semovar, and Provari to round out my gear (I might as well dream BIG right?)!!!
The battery heats up some but not to bad I can chain vape it at 20 watts which hangs around 7v on my current build and it does just fine. And yeah I'm looking into some new batteries when I get my new box together. I wanna stay around the 2600mah but I know these batteries aren't meant for the power the DNA is pushing but they will do for now
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I almost picked up a vtr my buddy owns a local vapor shop and I work there part time. He was gonna give it to me for close to his cost but I couldn't get over the way the tank wobbles around in that ring. I'm not a huge iclear 30 or 30s fan and that's about the only thing I've seen that fits real well down in there. I love my protanks and fogger v2
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umm New Battery New box you'd be better off Buying a DNA20 board and making a new mod.
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