DNA 200 mod

[rythus]

VT200 has been relisted at $179 on gearbest. Not sure what the final price is going to be when they actually arrive, but it is shiny...

 

[qes]

But if you're vaping a 100+W mod then you're not using A 3000 mAh battery, you're using two, doubling your voltage.

Take the Samsung 25R as an example.

2500 mAh X 8.4V = 21 Wh
1000 mAh X 11.1V = 11.1 Wh

You'll get nearly 10 more Wh of use out of a dual 18650 mod than a 1000 mAh 3S battery

You're taking the nominal voltage for the LiPo but the fully charged and unloaded voltage for the 18650. I believe the correct way to calculate watt-hours is to use the nominal voltage.

2500 mAh x 7.4V = 18.5 Wh
1000 mAh X 11.1V = 11.1 Wh

 

[pevinsghost]

Yes, the nominal charge is the way to go for calculations on regulated devices, unless you want to do calculus based on the voltage curve across a discharge cycle. The time you don't use nominal for regulated is if you are figuring out if your batteries are rated for sufficient amp drain. On a regulated device, you want to use the lowest voltage the device will fire at for this, because that's when the most amps will be pulled to reach the wattage selected.

 

[qes]

Yes, the nominal charge is the way to go for calculations on regulated devices, unless you want to do calculus based on the voltage curve across a discharge cycle. The time you don't use nominal for regulated is if you are figuring out if your batteries are rated for sufficient amp drain. On a regulated device, you want to use the lowest voltage the device will fire at for this, because that's when the most amps will be pulled to reach the wattage selected.

Well, the device isn't a factor when calculating a battery's watt-hours (short of getting into the area under the curve). I'm just saying you can't use the nominal voltage for one and the fully charged and unloaded voltage for another and then compare them.

Interestingly, regarding the calculus, I notice my LG HE4's and Samsung 25R's both clock about 50k joules before hitting low battery but the Samsung's maintain nearly full voltage until about 25k joules whereas the LG's drop fairly linearly as the joules accumulate.

 

[whoodie]

Good info here, thanks!

 

[Gor3cki]

Well, the device isn't a factor when calculating a battery's watt-hours (short of getting into the area under the curve). I'm just saying you can't use the nominal voltage for one and the fully charged and unloaded voltage for another and then compare them.

Interestingly, regarding the calculus, I notice my LG HE4's and Samsung 25R's both clock about 50k joules before hitting low battery but the Samsung's maintain nearly full voltage until about 25k joules whereas the LG's drop fairly linearly as the joules accumulate.

Nice remark! How did you calculate the joules? is it a dna200 function?

Good info here, thanks!

Thanks

 

[qes]

Nice remark! How did you calculate the joules? is it a dna200 function?

SX350J, I have a Boxer mod (dual 18650's), it keeps a running counter of joules on the screen. The difference is very apparent. I thought I may have gotten counterfeit LG's until the Samsung's nose-dived after 35k joules or so and hit the low battery warning at the same 50k joules I got on the LG's. I've been through a handful of cycles on each pair and it's always the same (I've gone through full cycles at both 30w and 60w in non-TC mode).

I suppose that would mean the Samsung 25R's are a better battery for mech mods (holds the higher voltage longer) but the LG's have a more linear voltage/capacity discharge curve making battery percentage meters more accurate.

 

[hoosierhickvape]

Is there any way to make the up and down buttons adjust the temp by default instead of the wattage in ni200 mode on the DNA 200? This would be similar to the way the evic vt does it. I hate it having to lock then hold down the up anddown buttons just to be able to raise or lower my temp.

 

[karmapopsicle]

Is there any way to make the up and down buttons adjust the temp by default instead of the wattage in ni200 mode on the DNA 200? This would be similar to the way the evic vt does it. I hate it having to lock then hold down the up anddown buttons just to be able to raise or lower my temp.

Not yet. You could ask on the DNA200 forum asking for that as an option. I know some people would prefer to have the temp shown where the wattage normally is, and just have the wattage off in one of the fields.

Though you should just be adjusting the wattage to taste anyway. There's a reason Evolv still calls it temperature protection/limiting.

 

[jurdanas]

Original SMY SDNA 200 200W TC Box Mod
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http://www.gearbest.com/temperature-control-mods/pp_246017.html