DNA 200 Watt

[RickCain]

So I've put together a couple of additional DNA200 box designs but I can't decide which one to print first. They are essentially the same, but one is slightly more rounded and the other has a more flat surface on the front & back.

More rounded box (front & back view w/o battery door) (dimensions are 85x45x41)

More flat front/back surface version (front & back view w/o battery door) (dimensions are 85x45x40)

Any opinions on which should go first?

Looks to be for the small screen version. If so the large screen would be better due to being able to customize the screen?.


Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk

 

[mikepetro]

Looks to be for the small screen version. If so the large screen would be better due to being able to customize the screen?

The DNA200 is not available in a small screen version, at least not at this time.

 

[Flavored]

So I've put together a couple of additional DNA200 box designs but I can't decide which one to print first. They are essentially the same, but one is slightly more rounded and the other has a more flat surface on the front & back.

More rounded box (front & back view w/o battery door) (dimensions are 85x45x41)

More flat front/back surface version (front & back view w/o battery door) (dimensions are 85x45x40)

Any opinions on which should go first?

Thinner the better, and 85 mm tall is a winner. Positioning the screen looks like a battle of wills as the chip is landed on top of it down in that body, though, do you have a method in mind?

 

[Cotay]

Looks to be for the small screen version. If so the large screen would be better due to being able to customize the screen?.


Sent from my iPhone 6+ using Tapatalk

Nope, this is a large screen hole. The viewable area of the cutout is sized correctly for a large screen's viewable area. I do however need to move the viewable area over just a tad...thanks for making me look twice! I've used this screen mount setup on my large screen DNA40 plate designs previously. It may be the angle of the pic that makes it look skewed...the hole on this is actually slightly larger in all dimensions than the clear viewable area on a large screen VS rDNA40.

 

[Cotay]

Thinner the better, and 85 mm tall is a winner. Positioning the screen looks like a battle of wills as the chip is landed on top of it down in that body, though, do you have a method in mind?

There is some logic behind the screen placement. I wanted a larger "hold area" for my big thumb so I don't have to reposition my hand to look at the screen when I am holding it. I also went with a 10mm fire button that has an interior hole of 11.45mm...given that the tray side hole for the screen is 33mm tall, I can probably shave 1mm off to move the hole up, but the total screen height of Evolv's screen is just shy of 32mm when factoring the non-bendable area of the screen cable. The backside hole for the screen mount is 1mm above the top of the up/down button housings and 2.3mm below the bottom of the fire button on the top. Realistically I can probably only move it up about 2mm if I make a few design changes and still pass Shapeway's design checks for thin walls (maybe 3mm-4mm if I go with a smaller fire button...but I hate small fire buttons). Getting the spacing to pass Shapeway's designs also required moving it down; I've designed this to be printable in metals as well, so that necessitates slightly thicker walls. I have a test print of a plate with the same dimensions coming by Monday. Once I get a DNA200 in hand I will probably make some further modifications to this.

 

[Flavored]

There is some logic behind the screen placement. I wanted a larger "hold area" for my big thumb so I don't have to reposition my hand to look at the screen when I am holding it. I also went with a 10mm fire button that has an interior hole of 11.45mm...given that the tray side of the screen is 33mm tall (I can probably shave 1mm off to move the hole up, but the total screen height is just shy of 32mm when factoring the non-bendable area of the screen cable)...getting the spacing to pass Shapeway's designs also required moving it down. The backside hole for the screen mount is 1mm above the top of the up/down button housings and 2.3mm below the bottom of the fire button on the top. Realistically I can probably only move it up 2mm if I make a few design changes and still pass Shapeway's design checks for thin walls. I've designed this to be printable in metals as well, so that necessitates slightly thicker walls.

Thanks, that sounds good, and good that you're thinking through the how to's on assembly. Your "thumb room" comment is what I was seeking. How is the screen secured? Is it butted up against the chip and immovable once the chip is screwed in?

 

[Cotay]

Personally I am not going to print a case until I get the chip and fit it to the sled/mount portion. I have a few prints of the mount area already, so once I have a chip that confirms the layout I will go for a print. This will be my first try:



View attachment 468173

I agree...I won't actually print until my test plate and board are in hand and all dimensions verified. Out of curiosity, what method are you using to secure the screen? I am using a screw on clamp since I want to be able to more easily disassemble.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Assuming the slop is "perfect" it won't need anything. ha ha ha. But if it does, I typically use window flashing tape. It is thick, rubberized and sticks like bad feedback on eBay.

I may add a clamp of sorts, but right now I am more interested in roughing out the geometry.

 

[TheBloke]

Well, here goes nothing..*





* for the purposes of this text, Nothing refers to any amount or quantity of any entity, including but not limited to money; time; skin; the no-claims bonus on the house insurance; fire and/or death.

 

[Darkly spectr]

My lipo came in. this thing is pretty heavy. I am surprised since I Never held a lipo in my life. I really need to find a fireproof pouch for it. not sure if I feel comfortable having this thing in a drawer. probably have it in a pouch IN the mod. do the lipo pouches have a hole for the wiring or is it just completely shut?

The french finally stopped being lazy and finally updated shipping to international transfer with courier service so it will probably be here tomorrow.

the british are still......something. tracking says the dna is STILL in gatwick. contacted stealthvape and he thinks that the package missed a scan at heathrow. diddly darn it UK. edit: cancel that. we have apparently touched down in gent. so it should be here tomorrow.

and then I need to find stuff to actually DRILL into the hammond. our business only has stuff for wood so.eh.

 

[soulseek]

Well, here goes nothing..*

Awaiting patiently on your results before I pull the trigger on the board from cloud9.

One question I've been willing to ask for day is if it is possible to limit the board to 40W through software and use and 18650 instead to power it?

 

[Darkly spectr]

Awaiting patiently on your results before I pull the trigger on the board from cloud9.

One question I've been willing to ask for day is if it is possible to limit the board to 40W through software and use and 18650 instead to power it?

No. you HAVE to use a 3s lipo/lifepo4 or use a convertor to use triple 18650(is that convertor thing even out yet?) since the board needs a minimum of 9 volts I think.

 

[tchavei]

Bloke: Now that's a real soldering iron. You will love it.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheBloke]

Bloke: Now that's a real soldering iron. You will love it.

Yes! Just picked it up this morning Thanks for the recommendation. Not that I've tried it yet, but I'm sure it's going to be awesome.

Did you notice I finally got a proper torch too? I now have ALL the tools! Just need to find me some talent and I'll be all set

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Well, here goes nothing..*





* for the purposes of this text, Nothing refers to any amount or quantity of any entity, including but not limited to money; time; skin; the no-claims bonus on the house insurance; fire and/or death.

How you gonna solder that small hub cap/ash tray thing (bottom left) in there and where will the iPod go as I see you will be incorporating a headphone option..good luck mate. I'll be looking at the horizon for any sign of thermonuclear disturbance in the general area of Brighton...

 

[tchavei]

The trick is being calm and thorough. Rush is the enemy of perfection.

Good luck with your new toy. I hope that everything goes well for you

Regards
Tony

Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Ps. Are you sure you have enough wiring for that mod?? I only see a couple of meters of black and red...

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Tom, let go...use the force..it is strong within you..I can feel it...actullay I meant use the flux...lol!

 

[TheBloke]

How you gonna solder that small hub cap/ash tray thing (bottom left) in there and where will the iPod go as I see you will be incorporating a headphone option..good luck mate. I'll be looking at the horizon for any sign of thermonuclear disturbance in the general area of Brighton...

Headphones will be for listening to the sonic waves generated by the 200W. I want a full sensory experience from this board. I want to feel, hear, and even see those 200 watts of pure power crashing over me and enveloping all around me.

I'm disappointed though that you neither noticed nor commented on my ridiculous f-off huge switch for the fire button. 22mm diameter!



If I'm going to have a desk-only mod it damn well better have a huge big button to trigger it (When I was ordering I noticed and somewhat briefly considered a foot switch )

No up/down buttons, because that's so last month. I will change settings via the PC, naturally. I'm going to make a little widget that lets me change settings and then sends them via serial (over USB) to the DNA. Already tested that last night, and it's pretty awesome actually This may be desk-only but it might just be the most usable of all my mods. No more silly five-times-to-lock just to change temperature! I can fire via PC as well but only if I say in advance how long I want it to fire for. I will raise a feature request to have a "stop firing" command so I can have a proper fire button on the PC

Ps. Are you sure you have enough wiring for that mod?? I only see a couple of meters of black and red...

I think it's two meters each of 14, 16 and 18 gauge. I need some wire to practice on first

The trick is being calm and thorough. Rush is the enemy of perfection.

Good luck with your new toy. I hope that everything goes well for you

Cheers mate

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Headphones will be for listening to the sonic waves generated by the 200W. I want a full sensory experience from this board. I want to feel, hear, and even see those 200 watts of pure power crashing over me and enveloping all around me.

I'm disappointed though that you neither noticed nor commented on my ridiculous f-off huge switch for the fire button. 22mm diameter!



If I'm going to have a desk-only mod it damn well better have a huge big button to trigger it (When I was ordering I noticed and somewhat briefly considered a foot switch )

No up/down buttons, because that's so last month. I will change settings via the PC, naturally. I'm going to make a little widget that lets me change settings and then sends them via serial (over USB) to the DNA. Already tested that last night, and it's pretty awesome actually This may be desk-only but it might just be the most usable of all my mods. No more silly five-times-to-lock just to change temperature! I can fire via PC as well but only if I say in advance how long I want it to fire for. I will raise a feature request to have a "stop firing" command so I can have a proper fire button on the PC



I think it's two meters each of 14, 16 and 18 gauge. I need some wire to practice on first



Cheers mate

Can't believe you didn't get one of those 'more power Igor' lever things. Peter Cushing would turn in his grave...