$1.39 and it is double sided sticky. The stuff you linked to is only sticky on one side. This stuff is designed to conduct heat weather stipping is just the oposite.
Blue 100mmx100mmx1mm GPU CPU Heatsink Cooling Thermal Conductive Silicone Pad
DNA 200 Watt
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$1.39 and it is double sided sticky. The stuff you linked to is only sticky on one side. This stuff is designed to conduct heat weather stipping is just the oposite.
Blue 100mmx100mmx1mm GPU CPU Heatsink Cooling Thermal Conductive Silicone Pad
I thought it was for 15x15x1mm on each sheet. Did I read it wrong? I'm thinking I would have to stick 30 postage stamps on the battery for $6.99.
Sorry I get things wrong a lot.
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It started with fireproofing in case a LiPo lit off. I was planning on using that flame sheet plumbers use to solder copper up by joists. But DarklySpectr rightly pointed out it would not allow heat dissipation and more than likely cause the event we were thinking of measures to safeguard against hence the conversation stemming into a layered defense involving heat dissipation, then fireproofing & directional venting.At a certain c rating it wont matter what you try to insulate with, it will cut thru even the lipo bag etc. like it wasn't even there.
buy a well research cell and your good to go.. Just know ~10 amps can cut thru a 1/4" of steel or take a huge chunk out of a screwdriver lol.. Be careful building is most certainty..
Some 3s lipos are 200amp rated
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I am pretty sure you did. But just ask the seller or look at some of the other sellers of the stuff. Just watch out several are USA and several are from China. And keep in mind that stuff is TOUGH one 15mm x 15mm square will hold a construction worker by his hardhat. If you don't want to use something that is thermally conductive then just ignore my suggestion. But door molding is one he!! of an insulator - probably not what you want to keep the battery cool.
I am sure the prices are per sheet not by each little square. But please ask the seller.
In the listing description it states the pads on this sheet are 1.5mmx15mmx15mm
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I only wanted stick on one side really. Just the battery side for an easy to service battery. That would make it easy change batteries. I also wanted more padding, compressive type of tape. 1.5mm tape would not allow for much expansion/contraction room since it would only compress to roughly half that thickness I would imagine. But with either tape it is a cost effective solution that would address several issues easily I think.
I guess I got it wrong! Sincerely thank you for the suggestions.
It is these types of discussions that develop new thoughts
Here is a 100 mm X 100 mm
I obviously don't know what you guys are up to or trying to accomplish. So with the 100 X 100 mm sheet I am out of this conversation. It it like trying to hit a moving target.
All you have to do if the stuff interest you is shop eBay just a little if it is not what you want than just go with what suits you.
Ya bad idea don't wanna hold in the heats lol
There's vids on yt of a lipo cutting thru a lipo bag, the bag just isolates it to that position it's placed to charge so it wont rocket off..
The best solution IMO is innokin's new 3s cells they have all kinds of bells and whistles, supposed to be state of the art protection.. So if they sell the connector and batts separately methinks many will wanna go at this mod, IMO its the end all of em all if proven in the field lol.. Definitely a pro vapers mod
I still agree with Evolv's statement, "40 watts being the most you'll need vaping with TP" but when off TP oh ya 200 watts gimme...
@tchavei @TheotherSteveS @MegaVap @anyone-following-my-adventures-in-heating-stuff-up-with-a-pointed-stick
it works
No mega fire button on yet, because I forgot to get 22G. Tomorrow (well, later today) I might see if I can thin some 18G.
No photos either, it's too messy. I'll do that when it's vaguely presentable.
But it's firing from the PC at up to 200W (pre heat) and TCing a Resistherm coil. Not that I've tested its accuracy, such things can wait for after sleep
Here's a graph wot EScribe made. 7 seconds 'puff', TC @ 230°C, 40W (preheat theoretically up to 200), Resistherm coil reading 0.295Ω base though its actually 0.26Ω so apparently I need to check the 510, ho hum
it works
No mega fire button on yet, because I forgot to get 22G. Tomorrow (well, later today) I might see if I can thin some 18G.
No photos either, it's too messy. I'll do that when it's vaguely presentable.
But it's firing from the PC at up to 200W (pre heat) and TCing a Resistherm coil. Not that I've tested its accuracy, such things can wait for after sleep
Here's a graph wot EScribe made. 7 seconds 'puff', TC @ 230°C, 40W (preheat theoretically up to 200), Resistherm coil reading 0.295Ω base though its actually 0.26Ω so apparently I need to check the 510, ho hum
For those of us who want to run this board at a maximum of 40W this is surely a big hassle to build this thing and definitely not worth it. I'll keep in touch with this thread but I'll also wait for something better to come along.
I fully understand why you feel that way, but for me half of the fun is figuring out the design and building my own mod. I enjoy the challenge.
I'm just lurking (and learning) in here but although say 40 watts is maybe the most I'll have mine set to when I finally get one, it's that powerful pre-heat that going the draw for me. Just thinking out loud here is all.
I'm planning on using a vented metal case (won't burn and dissipates waste heat ok) and Velcro to keep the battery from rattling around.
Could you advise what part is a hassle? I am not being sarcastic. Having built a number of mods, I find the use of a pre-made lipo pack and a board with useful buttons and an integrated charger a great deal more simple. Is it the talk of shielding and such with foam and special wrappers? That is optional and IMHO not needed. With a metal case there are only three solder joints, no battery sled to mount and no external charger to mount.
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@tchavei @TheotherSteveS @MegaVap @anyone-following-my-adventures-in-heating-stuff-up-with-a-pointed-stick
it works
No mega fire button on yet, because I forgot to get 22G. Tomorrow (well, later today) I might see if I can thin some 18G.
No photos either, it's too messy. I'll do that when it's vaguely presentable.
But it's firing from the PC at up to 200W (pre heat) and TCing a Resistherm coil. Not that I've tested its accuracy, such things can wait for after sleep
Here's a graph wot EScribe made. 7 seconds 'puff', TC @ 230°C, 40W (preheat theoretically up to 200), Resistherm coil reading 0.295Ω base though its actually 0.26Ω so apparently I need to check the 510, ho hum
lol. Just saw a post from someone in another sub-forum about some crazy dude vaping with a computer! You are (in)famous!!!
Hahaha a. Way to go Tom!
So, how went the soldering?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
So, how went the soldering?
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
hoorah.
and then I realised the box is way too high/thick can't even fit my hand around it. don't know if there is a hammond that is the same dimensions but just less thick. So I will probably have to cut off a chunk of the box so I can atleast hold the damn thing.
Got a general idea how to make cabling work. probably going to shorten the positive and negative leads on the lipo itself. not sure how safe it is to redo that but eh.
I STILL have no .......n idea how to fit/mound the chip. especially how I am going to get the screen to sit properly.
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