DNA 200 Watt

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nic_fix

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thanks guys. I think this battery is gone. perhaps what is also causing nearly no production at reasonable settings. something is wrong for sure. I am not trying to get clouds. it is honestly just fizzling below any sane settings. should not go under 1 volt in all cells. perhaps down to 2.7 in my helicopter but not under 1v ever. the usb charger will just not recognize it even if it can be charged. I think the usb chargers have a trip voltage which this is under. could be wrong about that. I will just bring it to hana. unfortunately I have made many dna40 trips there. I do have the latest firmware on the dna200. I do not think it should go that low. especially since it is set at 2.5v. oh darn my luck.

vapealone, why do you have a quick blow fuse? I thought there is a fuse in the pack? is it safe without putting one on? I read an article somewhere about mod batteries exploding under load. I know they can already. just worried now.
 
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Jeremy Schreiber

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Hi again guys, one of my DNA200s stopped working. Won't recognize the batteries. Will only turn on if plugged it to the computer and then the batteries read 0% and I get the check batteries message if I try to fire it. I attached a picture of Escribe, I have it set to two cells but is is reading 0 volts on cell 1, 4.2 volts cell 2, and 1.2 (I think) on cell 3. Anyone know if this is a blown fuse or what could be wrong?
 

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Mad Scientist

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Hi again guys, one of my DNA200s stopped working. Won't recognize the batteries. Will only turn on if plugged it to the computer and then the batteries read 0% and I get the check batteries message if I try to fire it. I attached a picture of Escribe, I have it set to two cells but is is reading 0 volts on cell 1, 4.2 volts cell 2, and 1.2 (I think) on cell 3. Anyone know if this is a blown fuse or what could be wrong?

I'd check continuity of the fuse and then measure the actual voltages at the balance connector pads and the pack pads. If what you're measuring doesn't match what device manager reports in real time, it's pretty much definitely the board. If it does match, check the wiring to the pack. If I remember right when I built my twin 18650, the balance connections are of high enough input impedance that an open connection will wander around a good bit just from the electrical noise in the environment.
 

Jeremy Schreiber

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I'd check continuity of the fuse and then measure the actual voltages at the balance connector pads and the pack pads. If what you're measuring doesn't match what device manager reports in real time, it's pretty much definitely the board. If it does match, check the wiring to the pack. If I remember right when I built my twin 18650, the balance connections are of high enough input impedance that an open connection will wander around a good bit just from the electrical noise in the environment.

Thanks for the reply and explaining that. Honestly though, I would have no idea how to do any of that and even if it is simpler than it sounds, I would probably end up messing it up worse. I'm still waiting to hear back from GV.
Edit: service from Ginger Vaper has been fantastic, they have given me the clear to send it back to them.
 
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vapealone

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vapealone, why do you have a quick blow fuse? I thought there is a fuse in the pack? is it safe without putting one on? I read an article somewhere about mod batteries exploding under load. I know they can already. just worried now.

Yes, there is a slow blow fuse on the board that I have managed to blow on my previous board:)
My masterplan is that with the present setup if anything goes wrong the easy replaceable quick blow one goes off first saving the on board one.
If it doesn't work and I blow the onboard one, plan B is that I bridge it and let the external one only to save the board.
We will see. So far both are all right:)
 

nic_fix

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I should have listened to you guys. the sxmm runs way hot. with much higher settings on the dna200 I love it. luckily it can afford much higher settings. I am sort of amazed the difference between the two. the sxmm is at 43j and 400w powerful+. the dna200 is at 100w 500f 8.5, 100 preheat. I have no idea but it works great. I just wanted to report that. as for my battery issue hana told me do not run it below 5%. it has been fine.
 

tomr1088

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I had thought originally evolve said dna200 was required to be mated to a lipo pack. now mods show up with multiple 18650. I am sure that is fine and I would prefer that too. obviously they will power it. not sure what evolve thinks. perhaps there is less safety concern with a lipo pulling them down as much as this can. it is monitoring several aspects of the lipo. is it doing so with the 18650's? I am certainly not against it just wondering if it is appropriate. you can put anything together of course.

I am sorry if I seem stupid. those in this thread are way more technically inclined than I. on that note, I was having difficulty with the dna200 vs. the 350j. it turns out that the issue lies in that the dna200 offers much more control. there are parameters. using it without escribe is certainly not going to garner the most out of it. whereas yihi, everything is done on the mod itself. albeit not as much to do. resulting in not as good a vape as the dna20 can provide. it just so happens that this is a lot for me to swallow. I figured it out and indeed now prefer the dna200. it can and will provide an outstanding vape experience. I am getting a cool vape with good throat hit and good production. to do the same on the 350j I think it has to be pretty warm. not sure if you mess with the tcr in the latest firmware but that is kind of defeating it anyways. that is in regard to yihi.

From the start lipo pack was recommended or 3 high quality lion cells capable of 30 amps. Later on due to demand they update firmware to accept 2 cell mode therefore allowing 2 cell lipo or 2 18650s but only 30 amp 18650s. This of course will reduce output to 133watts not 200.
 

Subohmies

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Just have to check off the 2 cell option in the mod tab. And jump the balance connector pins 2 and 3 together
Couldn't find the right size for the enclosure that I want, gonna pass the 2s and stick to 3s
But thanks....that's a very straight forward info
 

Darkly spectr

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where did you pick that up from? how do you like so far? type of batteries you're running?

Just a small vape store in belgium. they have alot of NICE stuff like all dem fancy philipines mods and ..... out of nowhere they were all "oh hey we got the reuleaux in".

I loooove this thing so far. haven't tried temp control though.

running a mismatched(2 green one blue) samsung 25rs since I haven't gotten around ordering 6 LG HG2s yet. but since the DNA 200 monitors every battery separately you don't have to worry about killing a battery from it depleting faster. at most you lose some battery capacity.

From the start lipo pack was recommended or 3 high quality lion cells capable of 30 amps. Later on due to demand they update firmware to accept 2 cell mode therefore allowing 2 cell lipo or 2 18650s but only 30 amp 18650s. This of course will reduce output to 133watts not 200.

You don't need 30 amps 18650s. 20amp 18650s are just fine. I mean the chip only pulls out 23 amps max. these batteries can handle that easily.
 

dwcraig1

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I'll bring that # 3 cell up, battery is not the problem. This is the second one to drain down to 3.85 while not being used and not charge any higher while the other two charge to 4.20 volts.
I'll get it back up.
12243039_1100146143342942_3006826051994518376_n.jpg

Umm, just might have two bad Lipo's, it appears it doesn't want to go above 3.86 volts. more time needed to be sure.
Nay, it's coming up, hooray. Now if I can just keep it up (hey I'm an old man)
 
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Darkly spectr

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Though 2 x 18650 battery DNA200 draw 50% more current that normal for a given wattage so use better batteries like VTCs, HE2s, 25Rs and not the 3000 mAh brown ones.
Why would the dual 18650 draw 30 amps instead of 20 amps. they can't have the batteries draw more than 23 amps because the onboard fuse would blow at 25 amps.

the chip will always pull 23 amps MAX dual or triple. hardware wise it is impossible for the board to pull more than 23 since it would make the fuse blow.

and the LG HG2s are perfectly fine. they are officially rated at 20 amps. most studies have proven that they are true 20 amps continuous. with 35 amp pulse apparently. getting a VTC4 over a LG HG2 or 25R is just useless since you are giving up so much capacity for a amp limit the board will never reach. hell the VTC5 is technically also only 20 amps(VTC4 and VTC3 are 30 amps).

The best batteries you can buy right now for this mod are HG2s.
 
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