DNA 200 Watt

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Aal_

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Guys can you confirm the threshold for getting out of temp mode? Is it 150F for 1 sec?

Vlad1 if you are not achieving this threshold and you are getting out of temp mode then the device is acting as designed. I don't see any bugs or anything but a scenario that Evolv missed which states that some people might be vaping temp mode without achieving this threshold.

I don't see any issues here both parties are correct. It is not a bug but Vlad1 is correct in assuming that Evolv should consider this scenario.

However if you are surpassing the 1 sec 150 threshold then it is a bug of its doing its not supposed to do.
 

footbag

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Yes it's reproducable, yes it's been posted on Evolv's forum. There are other similar in nature occurrences posted there as well that may or may not be caused by temp. Temperature on this is subjective since not everyone runs the same coil size or type of alloy, someone running dual coil clapton may not notice it until they drop to 70W whereas someone running a single coil may hit it at 20W or 30W. Additionally if someone gets a funny run of wire or their TCR is slightly off I could imagine that could play a role as well. But however you want to slice it, it's going into power mode and reading Live Ohms as Cold Ohms. Bug or by design call it what you please.

When you say it's reproducible...

What are the conditions? Low TCR wire? Specific atty? It seems to me that it's just detecting the wire as non-TC. I also think what you are seeing as cold ohms > live ohms is just from it being in power mode.

Rather then asking for a bug fix, I wonder if there would be an option to fix it with a new feature. Rather then switching to power mode, maybe it could ask if it's a new atty or TC atty.

The big problem is that Evolv is putting a lot of faith in the users to get stuff right. That includes atty resistance and TCR's. Since wall wires aren't the same, even of the same type, that's a tall order. But, the DNA200 is a bit experimental. The users are going to push it. That's why they gave the user so much access to the raw data.
 

nic_fix

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guys I really need a question answered regarding safety. this bum sold me two Samsung icr 26-r and one Samsung inr 25-r. can I use this combination in the reuleaux or is it unsafe? I am not going above 60 watts but I am not sure if the different batteries is okay? seriously, please answer this I do not need an accident. thank you

Edit: I have another Samsung icr but it is used. is that a better idea or no go either?

edit 2: actually what I have is 2 inr that were married in snow wolf. so I could do 3 inr if that is okay. those are 25 amp of course. not sure if I can use one that was in the snowwolf?
 
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Aal_

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guys I really need a question answered regarding safety. this bum sold me two Samsung icr 26-r and one Samsung inr 25-r. can I use this combination in the reuleaux or is it unsafe? I am not going above 60 watts but I am not sure if the different batteries is okay? seriously, please answer this I do not need an accident. thank you

Edit: I have another Samsung icr but it is used. is that a better idea or no go either?

edit 2: actually what I have is 2 inr that were married in snow wolf. so I could do 3 inr if that is okay. those are 25 amp of course. not sure if I can use one that was in the snowwolf?
From my humble experience, and I like to take risks, don't mix, even old and new don't do it. Now I'm sure dna will protect you but these batteries are in series. If they were in parallel I wouldn't mind they balance each other but in series I say don't do it. The older batteries will discharge faster and will have different battery sag.

Someone else with better experience will chime in I'm sure.

EDIT: different types don't do it FOR sure, above was regarding old and new.
 
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BlueridgeDog

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Anyway, never happened again and it works like a champ... Except for the screen. I think I'm on my fourth now. I can't keep them for more than a couple of months until they start getting dimmed and unusable (the ribbon wire starts breaking near the glass) but that's a design issue. You can avoid touching the micro on board fire button but you can't avoid the metal button touching the cable. I use the device 24/7 so sooner or later the tiny movements will stress crack the ribbon cable near the glass (under the black isolation tape).

I still love it though :)

Odd that it will re-route to be pinched. I pinched one screen to the point of failure, but subsequent ones were installed to keep them well away.

The big problem is that Evolv is putting a lot of faith in the users to get stuff right. That includes atty resistance and TCR's. Since wall wires aren't the same, even of the same type, that's a tall order. But, the DNA200 is a bit experimental. The users are going to push it. That's why they gave the user so much access to the raw data.

I think this needs to be stressed as the ability to load a TCR profile lets the user push the limit on what may happen and the fine line of in and out of TC mode can be easily crossed. If you are going to try some of the low TCR wires, you really have to be doing so in a spirit of experimentation rather than one of thinking that this was all designed at the onset.
 

retird

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Odd that it will re-route to be pinched. I pinched one screen to the point of failure

A lot of modders have brought about at least one failed screen by pinching, cracking the screen, and etc. I have.

I just say it is a modders "rights of passage" to do it at least once....LOL.....,
 

tchavei

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Odd that it will re-route to be pinched. I pinched one screen to the point of failure, but subsequent ones were installed to keep them well away.

This last time I used Evolv's original beta box routing path and the screen held for like two months. Upon inspection, once again, the ribbon cable becomes separated from the glass on the screen. The ribbon isn't pinched in any way but since the case's fire button is right above the screen placement, even if you bend the cable 180 degrees back, the button will lightly touch the cable which after 4-5k movements will eventually want to separate from the glass. Honestly don't know what else I can do other than using some custom box without the same layout :/
 

retird

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This last time I used Evolv's original beta box routing path and the screen held for like two months. Upon inspection, once again, the ribbon cable becomes separated from the glass on the screen. The ribbon isn't pinched in any way but since the case's fire button is right above the screen placement, even if you bend the cable 180 degrees back, the button will lightly touch the cable which after 4-5k movements will eventually want to separate from the glass. Honestly don't know what else I can do other than using some custom box without the same layout :/

THX for the info... both beta boxes here over 5 months old with 6900 button operations and 4500 button operations respectfully so guess I missed that bullet so far... I got lucky and dropped one (several times) and missed that bullet also....
 

tchavei

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THX for the info... both beta boxes here over 5 months old with 6900 button operations and 4500 button operations respectfully so guess I missed that bullet so far... I got lucky and dropped one (several times) and missed that bullet also....
I guess you're lucky or maybe I'm unlucky. Don't know. Already ordered a handful of screens :)
 

nic_fix

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I kind of just want to vent. no pun intended. in certain areas where vaping is scarce there are scumbags that open up shop just to take advantage of the unknowing. I am sure they are making money. for what I paid for these batteries and I asked him to swap one he told me to go f myself. my only choice is the internet but ups does not deliver here. I have to pay another scumbag to go to the hub and he takes advantage as well. so what do I have to do? I have to risk life and limb now. I took one battery that was in the snow wolf for a short time and mixed it with his other two batteries that may not be new anyways. package was open. samsungs come sealed in a plastic case. if this blows it may cause damage including to myself. I will sue him. likely nothing happens though. for the record I paid $25 per battery. it is just a shame there is scum like this in the world. of course there are even worse people. look, I am sorry I just said all this here but this just really stinks and I am very upset. especially since I now have to risk my well being.
 

nic_fix

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I am guessing some of the better retail boxes may have put in rd to avoid this. they might have done something completely different. of course the likes of hana have everything fail. yet I still like hana. I guess I am just a gluten for punishment. speaking of which I should be reporting here a battery explosion within a few days. actually, that is not even funny. I just find humor in a lot of things but I really do not know why my getting hurt would be funny to me. as for the screen hey worse things could happen but it is still a bummer. I am not sure why you guys are taking the time to build one still unless you just enjoy that. some of the retail boxes I gather are nicer than what you can build at home. unless you have an entire metal fab in your basement.
 

stylemessiah

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Arent there solder points for external switches like the DNA40? Yes....

Why arent mod makers using them, like the HCigar HB40 DNA40 i had...external switches...no issues.

It doesnt take a genius iq to know that at some point the board and or components are going to fail due to using the onboard switches and flexing...apparently screen pinching already, probably solder joints down the line

I guess theyd rather churn out things than spend $5 more and a few minutes soldering external switches to make them properly...
 
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nic_fix

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thank you wingsfan. there is no usps mail here either. I live cut off. it is what we wanted. so it does come with some downsides. I do not even have electricity, have a generator. it's what we wanted. I was an attorney in Chicago and of course this is a much different lifestyle.

I have a serious question though. would like 26r since they are 2600mah. wouldn't I want 25r for this since they are 25 amp? not sure of the chemistry of the 26r either. does it matter? even 25 amps I would think is not enough but I am not going to push it to 200. which is the better and more appropriate battery for the dna200? thank you
 

nic_fix

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okay I found out. 26f is a very bad in high current mods. chemistry will vent fire. considered obsolete. strange that it is the higher mah battery. really for use in cell phone packs. continuous discharge is in fact 10a. 20a. is burst. I guess vtc5 is the only 2600mah battery from a name brand. hardly makes a difference in a mod. will not run much longer and risk explosion. I guess the 25r is what is popular for mods. 26f is obscure. probably why this jerk had it.

I am using the 25r out of the snow wolf that was barely used. I guess I take my chances. have little choice. I also read most 2600mah batteries cannot be fully charged by regular charger. have pila don't know if it can charge them.

I can get 2600mah no name. probably better off with the 25r even though I had to mix one battery. I do not think 2600mah is going to provide much more runtime. the thing is already at 7500mah with three batteries.

just wondering if I should look for 2600mah or 2500 is fine? as far as the one slightly used cell anything can happen but I am not too worried. at least the 25r will not vent fire. plus dna200 should hopefully7 protect it. if the battery was very used I would not have done this. still, they have a memory. at least I charged them all together. I can get like efest or ingren 2600mah but I think the samsungs are better. just wondering how much of a difference it would make in run time. since I now have to drive like 200 miles I figure I should get what is best.
 

Wingsfan0310

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I've never heard of 26R's. I do however use 25R's in all my 18650 mods. They are solid batteries, I've never had a problem with them. Usually a higher mah rating will produce a lower continuous discharge and vice versa. Also be careful, not all ratings are created equal. Some companies get happy with their numbers (efest comes to mind).

Cheers,
Steve
 
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