DNA 40 Chip Mount - Beta

[Darthpistachio]

I've just uploaded a design for a dna 40 chip mount to Sculpteo and Shapeways - I haven't received one myself yet to test fit it - just giving you guys a heads up on its existence for the moment...

It's designed primarily for a C/Hana styled enclosure but could be used in any suitable enclosure really.. I'm totally open to requests for different designs along the same lines once I have surmised the core sections don't need modification - additional sections would be relatively easy to add on to it..


Check it out here:

shapeways

And here:

sculpteo












Ciao for now...

 

[newt2351]

well,I have ordered one so when it arrives ill give you some feedback as beta tester

 

[Darthpistachio]

excellent thanks!

 

[Darthpistachio]

Screenless Mount version now available in Beta for people using their own mount or design for the screen.

SHAPEWAYS

SCULPTEO

 

[rhelton]

Those look good if I had my hands on one right now I'd use it. I made one from balsa this evening, strengthened it up with some paper thin flexible plastic on both sides it pretty rigid. Not the best idea but will work. I would feel better with one of these cradles. Next time I will get one.

 

[Darthpistachio]

Success! - Sculpteo mount arrived this morning and it's a perfect fit - impressed with the print quality and tolerances from Sculpteo. They are the cheaper option for shipping for anyone in the UK or Europe. This design will be coming out of Beta this evening.


Here is preliminary testing of all fixtures and chip mounting:

At this point this mount is ready for most any box mod! - However there are a few things to be noted for mounting in a HANA style enclosure. I knew from the beginning that with the extra width of the dna 40 there would be very tight tolerances - indeed with just the plastic cradle and the screws there is plenty of flex in the cradle to allow you to push it into the hana enclosure and be secure

but that's just wishful thinking because when you fix the chip - it's board removes all flex entirely - and now you face a problem in that the heads of the screws used to fix the board to the cradle now overlap a fraction on the sides and you will no longer be able to slide the cradle along with the chip into the enclosure. I could have gone with a smaller screw but you'd be on the edge of its ability to secure the board and the thread pitch would be tiny and the 3d printed holes might not be up to the job when you go the next size down - so bearing all that in mind I always intended to use this method...


with whatever you are comfortable using - I chose this:

with the chip mounted and screwed to the cradle -- carefully grind a small flat into the sides of the screw heads - not much is needed - just 1/3rd to 1/2 mm -

keep trying it until you whole assembly can slide easily with just a little force applied into the enclosure. When it's in there - all you need to do now is to apply a 1/8th turn more on each screw and the heads of the screws will work like cams - gripping the sides of the enclosure with some lateral force and clamping the whole assembly in place very securely!

and yes I know it looks like there is no clearance for the wattage adjust button - but the cradle isn't in it's proper place in that picture - in the right place the button fits there snug as a bug in a rug with about 2mm clearance


As long as shapeways print process is as accurate as Sculpteo's I can see that going out of beta very soon also...

 

[moresalt]

Very interesting. What size screws did you use? Does the screen slide into the mount or just sit on that side? I.e., is there any positive retention for the screen? Have you given any thought to be able to run the wires for the up/down switches and the positive wire between the board and the screen? Or would that put too much tension on the screen cable?

 

[Darthpistachio]

Very interesting. What size screws did you use?

The size recommended by Evolv - M1.6mm

Does the screen slide into the mount or just sit on that side?

the screen slides into a slot on the underside - it is not held securely in place by the cradle - it is designed to be held in place against the body of the mod - However with the Hana style enclosure kit and usually with most modders a small piece of plastic is employed between the screen itself and the mod body to further protect the screen - Simply cut a piece of plastic of suitable size and glue it to the underside of the cradle and then the screen will have a nice secure pocket space to be slid in and out of.

I.e., is there any positive retention for the screen?

see above

Have you given any thought to be able to run the wires for the up/down switches and the positive wire between the board and the screen? Or would that put too much tension on the screen cable?

the wires should come nowhere near the screen in this configuration - they should be pre connected and soldered from above - there is clearance designed into the cradle to allow for this on the underside..

 

[Darthpistachio]

I've got a few questions regarding the screen fixing - The cradle was designed so that the base would be fitted against the body of the mod and there would be a slot to accommodate the screen.

With regards to the Hana style enclosure - it's not that simple - and the kit comes with a piece of plastic to further protect the screen when the whole assembly is in place. I did think of this and the intention was to affixe that piece of plastic to the base of the cradle and then provide a nice pocket to securely hold the screen in place. - The photo below shows the piece of plastic that comes with the kit - which is a bit thick for my personal tastes and I will be changing it for a thin piece of acetate or other suitable plastic - which myself I will just secure with some sellotape to the base of the cradle and thus hold the screen nice and snugly in place.

I did consider adding some features to hold the plastic in place but there are too many variables - people might choose - like myself - to use thinner plastic or the kit makers may change the plastic etc.....

 

[moresalt]

the wires should come nowhere near the screen in this configuration - they should be pre connected and soldered from above - there is clearance designed into the cradle to allow for this on the underside..

I think you misunderstood. If I solder the wires from above, particularly the wires for the up/down buttons they run over the top of the board. That just looks...well, poor and tend to get in the way. I was suggesting a channel in the cradle to run those wires so they are less obvious.

 

[Darthpistachio]

well they may "look" poor - but if you take the time you can make them look tidy and neat - either way it's going to look a helluva lot better than the hot glued setups that currently abound

If you use 0.25mm silicone wire then you will have lots of flexibility and there's plenty of room in a HANA enclosure to place the wires..

And it would be covered in a hana enclosure with a piece of tinted plastic as well..

 

[newt2351]

excellent thanks!

well, take a look at my one installed this was version 1, beta test , perfectly fine no problems and no grinding screw heads

got my screws from modelfixings.co.uk part no.MF-ST30 ( No0 X6.4mm phillips self tap)




and tada



used a bit of glass scored and snapped from old picture frame for window this was a shapeways version of product

 

[Darthpistachio]

well, take a look at my one installed this was version 1, beta test , perfectly fine no problems and no grinding screw heads

got my screws from modelfixings.co.uk part no.MF-ST30 ( No0 X6.4mm phillips self tap)

used a bit of glass scored and snapped from old picture frame for window this was a shapeways version of product

excellent news - so you think I can take the shapeways one out of beta? - Still haven't received mine from them yet after they fudged up the first print run

 

[Darthpistachio]

Okelly Dokelly!

Got this tester mod finished: -

used a custom switch for the fire button - not the exact one I wanted but it will suffice - wanted something with space in the enclosure.
Used silicone wire for the wattage adjustments and fire button. little bit thicker on the insulation-but a lot more flexible.
Used SUGRU to hold the adjust buttons in place and to blank off the USB charging holes and to insulate the rear of the fire switch.
Not using on-board charging - takes too long - will be modding case for magnets in a few days..
Used a small piece of high density foam in the channel for the screen to ensure that it was centred in the Enclosure screen cut-out with the cradle in the final position.

Looks tidy - works great! Very pleased with the result!

 

[ZeroOhm]

Okelly Dokelly!

Got this tester mod finished: -

used a custom switch for the fire button - not the exact one I wanted but it will suffice - wanted something with space in the enclosure.
Used silicone wire for the wattage adjustments and fire button. little bit thicker on the insulation-but a lot more flexible.
Used SUGRU to hold the adjust buttons in place and to blank off the USB charging holes and to insulate the rear of the fire switch.
Not using on-board charging - takes too long - will be modding case for magnets in a few days..
Used a small piece of high density foam in the channel for the screen to ensure that it was centred in the Enclosure screen cut-out with the cradle in the final position.

Looks tidy - works great! Very pleased with the result!

View attachment 391628

View attachment 391629

Looks great darth, is that an OCD 510 from StealthV? what fire switch are you using? You reckon a MSW1201 switch will mount with the OCD?

 

[Darthpistachio]

Looks great darth, is that an OCD 510 from StealthV? what fire switch are you using? You reckon a MSW1201 switch will mount with the OCD?

yup it's a spring loaded OCd from stealth vapes - lovely connector but long

yes a MSW1201 will fit - you'll have to offset the mount hole just a little bit downwards and cut off some of the solder tails to accommodate the OCD - it's a little tight but it will go in there

 

[Darthpistachio]

Looks great darth, is that an OCD 510 from StealthV? what fire switch are you using? You reckon a MSW1201 switch will mount with the OCD?

I used this fire switch

- I wanted something that looked a little bit posher - but when you go down to smaller diameter push buttons it's hard to get nice posh looking switches at the smaller diameters - I settled for this for the time being.. just drilled out the cana hole and burred it with a dremel until I could push the switch in - it's held in place under it's own power - no glue required...

TS0B23 Switch , Push Button , Round , SPST , Red | eBay


TS0B22 Switch , Push Button , Round , SPST , Black | eBay

 

[Darthpistachio]

Shapeways mounts arrived and passed all tests! All mounts are now out of beta everywhere

Fitting hints and tips:

I recommend Size0 1.5mm thread self tapping stainless screws of approx 6-7mm length for mounting the board - there will be no issues with screw head overhang with these screws.

There are some variables involved with the screen placement:
{i} Modifications to production runs for the cutout on the Hana style enclosure
{ii} where the modder wishes to place the cradle dependant on switch size and positions

therefore I allowed for this in the design - a piece of high density foam of approx 1.5-1.6mm thickness - available for a pittance at any craft store - should be cut and placed in the screen well to give perfect placement of the screen horizontally in your particular build.

 

[rhelton]

nice job guys

 

[newt2351]

Looks great darth, is that an OCD 510 from StealthV? what fire switch are you using? You reckon a MSW1201 switch will mount with the OCD?

if you want illuminated buttons for youre DNA 40 ? as per picture



This is the correct tried and tested method.

Wire from the negative side of the FIRE switch to the LED then 1N4148 switching diode then GRND or B-