By saying yes to new coil the board will re evaluate and calibrate accordingly
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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By saying yes to new coil the board will re evaluate and calibrate accordingly
If you let it sit for longer than an hour it will always re-evaluate the coil when you wake it up, the same way as when you replace the battery. It won't ask if it is a new coil since it is automatically doing a new evaluation. You will know it's doing this when you see the "Evolv DNA40" splash screen when you press the fire button. That said, this shouldn't be a problem since both the device and the atty have sat and should be at the same temp. This is typically when you should get the most accurate reading.
It is spring loaded... But compared to all others including lemo this had the most stable resistance and always on spot. Telling you by experience after building many builds on it using rba deck. Same with the recent two that were done by rebuilding the pre built coils. IMO these details are better understood once you try it, rather than someone's reviews. See if you get a hold of one from a friend.
Best part is once screwed on the DNA the base never comes off, unlike others like lemo where you need to take off for refilling and others, so no resistance jumps at all. I cannot stress how easy things have become with nickel with sub tank.
I was suggesting in the post that rebuilding with coil heads that come. As it was easy enough to pull old coil from bottom and slip in the nickel build from top and pull cotton through it. Done in exactly 5 mins. Also no screws to mess with contact, everything gets press fitted, giving solid contact and no resistance randomness due to what not gone wrong with the build. This is really the easy way out without any hassles. Just sharing the info for someone who might be looking or thinking about.
Still waiting on the mini version which I will update as soon as I get it. But it resolves the only gripe I have with the larger one being a tad bit too heavy on DNA.
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My ST mini should be here tomorrow, looking at the pictures it doesn't have a spring loaded 510 like it's big brother. I really like the way the build deck looks on the mini, legs only need to be a couple millimeters long, so less wire for the DNA to manage. The picture I posted a page or so ago was a screenshot from Busardo's video, He built the coil with the legs coming from underneath the coil, but it seems like it would be better to have them coming from the top of the coil.
anybody had this problem: I have a VaporShark rDNA 40 the newer version with the larger screen and I just bought the Kanger SubTank Mini so I wanted to do a nickel build with the rba base but the problem is the rda base doesn't fire while on the vaporshark but does on everything else so its not the bra base. Strange thing is if i put the mini rba base with adapter of the 25mm subtank on the rdna 40 it fires...strange... so is anyone using the subtank rba with the rdna have this problem?
Had once same problem with the bigger version. After a lot of fiddling figures the rba base wasn't making contact well with the tank base or wasn't sufficient enough. Reason... After cleaning out rba base overturned the positive pin in too much. Just half a turn or so loosened out solved the problem. Give it a shot..
Tried doing this. Wrapping the leads around the screws instead of the holes.
I dont think it worked. No way in hell that 40 watts cant bring it to 470 with no vaping
The issue with the billow i noticed is that the outer post holes dont screw down enough tp catch the ni200. The center ones are fine. Tried like folding the ends of the legs to artificially thicken the end of the legs but dont think it works either.
30 and 40 watts BOTH hang around 440. 40 watts should go to the 480 easy. So i think something is messing up. The 40 watts feels way stronger than 30 even though for some reason the temperature reading is the same.
Weird. You know what i wished? That the screen would show the ohms while firing so you could see if the changes are happebing normally or all over the place
I dont think it worked. No way in hell that 40 watts cant bring it to 470 with no vaping
The issue with the billow i noticed is that the outer post holes dont screw down enough tp catch the ni200. The center ones are fine. Tried like folding the ends of the legs to artificially thicken the end of the legs but dont think it works either.
30 and 40 watts BOTH hang around 440. 40 watts should go to the 480 easy. So i think something is messing up. The 40 watts feels way stronger than 30 even though for some reason the temperature reading is the same.
Weird. You know what i wished? That the screen would show the ohms while firing so you could see if the changes are happebing normally or all over the place
Tried doing this. Wrapping the leads around the screws instead of the holes.
I dont think it worked. No way in hell that 40 watts cant bring it to 470 with no vaping
The issue with the billow i noticed is that the outer post holes dont screw down enough tp catch the ni200. The center ones are fine. Tried like folding the ends of the legs to artificially thicken the end of the legs but dont think it works either.
30 and 40 watts BOTH hang around 440. 40 watts should go to the 480 easy. So i think something is messing up. The 40 watts feels way stronger than 30 even though for some reason the temperature reading is the same.
Weird. You know what i wished? That the screen would show the ohms while firing so you could see if the changes are happebing normally or all over the place
This solved the problem for me.
Crimp, sterling silver, 3x1.5mm micro cut tube, 1.1mm inside diameter. Sold per pkg of 100. - Fire Mountain Gems and Beads
tried it and no go...I've tried everything...strange that it will fire the occ coils and not the rba base...so i guess i will only be using this with the vaporshark occ nickel coils when ever vaporshark release them...
Ok so I recieved my new DNA 40 VS 3 days ago and just put a NI200 build on it yesterday. I used 30g twisted 6/7 spaced wraps with 3mm ID on my lemo drop. Turned TP off and heated coils cause I was afraid of getting anyting on wick that wasnt burnt off. Let cool for 20 minutes wicked and coil was reading 0.14. Set TP to 430 and immediately vaping like a dream. I was almost to the point of getting rid of the lemo cause the flavor wasnt there. But this build was amazing. My question is at first it would reach temp in about 5-7 seconds at 35 watts. Now at 40watts and the resistance changing to 0.19 at times it wont reach temp at all. It gets to 250-300 and just sits there even with no vaping. My volts and wattage matches up but it seems like it should be getting hotter than 300. Mind you the vape quality remains the same. I just pushed the fire button for 10 seconds watching the readout not above 270 degrees. Took an immediate vape right after and no burnt hit at all. Dont get it. Is it not reading the temp right or is that how it is supposed to be. The lemo does get warm after a while but temp will still say less than 300. ANy help is appreciated.
bummer! No need to wait for the release see my post a few pages back. I have rebuilt an OCC head with nickel and it's working like a champ! no RBA no loss of juice capacity and it couldn't be any easier.
Continuing with my trials with contact coils. Twisted 30ga around 7/32, 11 wraps, 0.09 ohms
Wicked with rayon
No hot legs or hot spots with and without TP. Consistent performance so far. Will report back in a few days
Hmm
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Wicked with rayon
No hot legs or hot spots with and without TP. Consistent performance so far. Will report back in a few days
Hmm
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Mm. 28ga Ni200
Before pulsing without TP
After pulsing
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Before pulsing without TP
After pulsing
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I had the same issue. I took a o ring off one of those keychain screwdrivers and used it to extend the positive pin on the rba base
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I'm not real fond of some of the features on the Lemo. I have a Kanger subohm and going to try a nickel build maybe tonight if I have the patience.
So I think I figured it out. I had the 510 out just a little from using in the Hana. Put it all the way in and I'm back to working well. IMO I think that we are supped to hit temp. That's what the whole point is right. A consistent even vape. Without burnt hits. With the TP kicking in and the wattage stepping down it is staying at that temp. Instead of progressively getting warmer the longer your pull is. That being said it is definitely a cooler vape than most of us are used to but it is the same throughout. Does anyone agree. Or am I way off base.
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No, you are not way off base. If your build is solid and you are vaping within your tanks ideal wattage (taking airflow and wicking into account), you shouldn't hit TP. I vape my Lemo at 22 watts/410F and never hit TP, it hovers between 385 and 400. It is a cool vape, but I like it that way. When you start pushing the wattage up, like you at 35 watts, then you are likely going to hit TP after a few seconds. There is nothing wrong with doing that if you like the vape, but ideally you want to find a wattage and temp that will allow you to complete your draw without hitting TP. I mean what is really the point of 35 watts if you are going to hit TP and the board is going to dial back the power anyway. If a warm vape is what you are after, you may want to look into a wicking material that has a higher flash point than cotton. Or you can do Willie's wicking method, which apparently will allow you to fire 80 watts at the Lemo without drying the wick out.
An update to my post regarding sending the Hana DNA 40 back to the vendor. They did replace the mod with a new 40. They also stated it was the ground screw on the one I sent back. It had backed out, slightly, and was not fully grounding the board. Since then, I had a similar problem with another mod (one I built), so I rechecked the ground and sure enough it was loose. I made sure the ground was good and the problem went away.
I'm using the built for TC coils like the 0.35 Aspire a little better than the 0.17 Kanger coils but both gooder on a DNA40 than any notTC setup I have and soooo KISS,
Heavy juice flow makes me having to blow a lot to get a wetter hit, never had a dry one, a week on the same two coils.
Don't want to hijack this about building ni coils, good job everyone here and thanks, but had to share that these new disposable TC coils are working and did I say they are KISS?
I may post here when i get around to cleaning them, any advice?
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