DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds

[BluSwatch]

I don't know about all of that... I am not electron-savvy, but my coils seem to jump all over the place, ohms wise, through out a day.

I had one that went anywhere from 0.08 up to 0.32 ..... I opened my kayfun so many times I was ready to throw it all at the wall.

This morning also I have had it ask "New coil?" about 4 times. In between hits.
I go to hit it, nothing, look and it's asking about the coil again.

 

[erer]

i spoke with brandon from evolv yesterday, he said the only way the impendence will be bouncing around is from bad coil connections or 510 connections. he also said to wait 5 minutes to let the coil get to room tempature before telling it its a new coil.

are you sure your coil is performing correctly? maybe its hopspots on the coil working themselves out?

 

[BluSwatch]

I opened it numerous times and don't see anything/shorts/etc with the coil firing ..... it will be fine for days/hours, then have a "crappy time", then be back to fine for days/hours.Maybe that is just the nature of the Ni200-beast?

I am going to use a dripper all day so I can see what is going on easier.
More fiddling .....

 

[KenD]

I don't know about all of that... I am not electron-savvy, but my coils seem to jump all over the place, ohms wise, through out a day.

I had one that went anywhere from 0.08 up to 0.32 ..... I opened my Kayfun so many times I was ready to throw it all at the wall.

This morning also I have had it ask "New coil?" about 4 times. In between hits.
I go to hit it, nothing, look and it's asking about the coil again.

It really sounds like the atty is making intermittent contact with the 510 connector.

 

[KTMRider]

I opened it numerous times and don't see anything/shorts/etc with the coil firing ..... it will be fine for days/hours, then have a "crappy time", then be back to fine for days/hours.Maybe that is just the nature of the Ni200-beast?

I am going to use a dripper all day so I can see what is going on easier.
More fiddling .....

If it's anything like the DNA 30 box, look for the ground wire. It should be a wire screwed to the aluminum housing. Tighten the screw (careful not to strip). I've read that it can cause what you're experiencing.

 

[BluSwatch]

Gaw .. I have a J-Wrap on it and don't really want to have to waste it .... Kill me, kill me now. LOLOL

I am just gonna go vape something else for while.
And drink some coffee. LOL

 

[KTMRider]

You should be able to cut the wrap along the seams with a razor so you don't waste the wrap.

 

[OthatGuy]

If the ground lead is just screwed on, it is, I would unscrew it hit the spot where it connects with some. Sandpaper, make sure all the anodizing is off and put it back on, I'm assuming it's already bare under the contact point right there but your right about res fluctuations from that ground. . . Unless the 40 board takes that into account. But i dunno.

 

[DejayRezme]

The fluctuations with the resistance definitely point to a connection problem. It kind of has to be one of these four problems:

1. Bad post connection (Wrap wires around screw).
2. Bad 510 connection (dirty or badly adjustable pin)
3. Intermittent shorts with the coil or damaged wire
4. Bad internal connection (e.g. badly soldered connection).

If your resistance goes up and the vape becomes weak, that means you are heating some other part of your atty / 510 connection (possibly some arcing even). It's possible that with certain atties the post connection will forever remain "finicky". But it's quite possible that the TC and nickel wire just reveal connectivity problems you had all along. And that sucks even with kanthal.

I think you will always be able to just use kanthal and TURN TC MODE OFF so it doesn't give you trouble. But if your resistance still keeps changing and affects your vape with kanthal and TC off, it's not the "fault" of your chip.

About 3) I don't know if that is actually happening, whether wraps do "short" at all and reduce your resistance or not. But I would assume they do. And that could mean that a slight movement could change your resistance. Probably your coil should either be full contact and pinched good, or a spaced coil.

 

[GerhartCss]

7 wraps of 30 gauge ni 200 around a 3/32" screw. It has dropped down to .16 after vaping for a while, but it still providing great flavor and a decent amount of vapor.

 

[KTMRider]

If it's anything like the DNA 30 box, look for the ground wire. It should be a wire screwed to the aluminum housing. Tighten the screw (careful not to strip). I've read that it can cause what you're experiencing.

Saw a pic of the inside of the Hana Modz DNA 40. The ground is soldered to the negative contact for the battery. There was a wire connected to the case though.

 

[BluSwatch]

Re-did my coils also .... read 0.12ohms, but went to 0.18 once mounted. Could be my box varies from the Hana.

 

[ED-209]

Re-did my coils also .... read 0.12ohms, but went to 0.18 once mounted. Could be my box varies from the Hana.

View attachment 385251

Let us know if that coil actually works as I tried building a couple more and even a different atty and mine is STILL doing the same thing. I didn't know 12 wraps of 28 GA Nickel for a contact coil could be .56 ohms LOL

Also I tried a non contact coil and while it was lower at .18 ohms the coils glowed bright orange while on the temperature mode set to 500 degrees and trust me no coils where touching. I bumped it up to 600 degrees and 40 watts for the heck of it and my mod got really hot and the coils were so red hot that the wire started bending. I also could have sworn that I saw the temperature go past 600 to 638 on the display but it did it so fast and I couldn't replicate it so maybe my eyes were playing tricks.

I am so FREAKIN frustrated and would have thought spending this kind of money would get me a working device. If it wasn't for the warranty and all the presumably hot glue they drown the board in I would just attempt to fix myself.

Here's hoping a fix comes out or that the warranty repair that other person is getting works.

Sorry, RANT over.

Vape On, if you can.

 

[DejayRezme]

Also I tried a non contact coil and while it was lower at .18 ohms the coils glowed bright orange while on the temperature mode set to 500 degrees

Sorry to hear about your troubles!

It was definitely hotter than 500 degrees. Nickel doesn't glow at 600°F (at least not visibly). My theory is as soon as you have bad connection you have an additional resistance somewhere that will not react the same way nickel does to heat, the temp sensing is off. So the overall resistance the chip will see is lower when fired, which throws the temperature control off. Just as an example, if your coils would be 0.1 ohm and a connectivity problem creates another 0.1 ohm somewhere, 50% of the power (watts) would turn into heat somewhere else. That's why your mod got hot. (Maybe it's the 510. Check to see if it's charred). In this case the chip would see the resistance rise far slower with the temperature and think "hey great lets put more power in there to make it reaches the set temperature". If 50% of the resistance doesn't respond to heat the same way nickel does, and the nickel coil is supposed to double their resistance at the target resistance, the coil could get twice as hot. The math is probably more complex, just as an example.

If you have connectivity problems, e.g. your resistance is higher than expected or fluctuating, temperature control will not work.

It's not really the fault of the chip itself, but of the chosen wire material because it's so damn low ohm. Connectivity problems that are tolerable with kanthal are exacerbated with nickel low ohm builds. Not sure what a good way would be to pinpoint these problem really. Check the post connections, 510 positive pin, internal wiring to the negative pole of the 510 etc.

 

[GerhartCss]

Question for you guys. I've tried a handful of contact coils with nickel and every time, even with temp control on at 420, if I fire the coil without cotton I get a glowing spot in the nickel. Also, a section of the coil will become discolored, but now if I fire the coil never glows red again. Is this coil okay to use? What does the discoloration indicate? I'm trying not to heat these coils up to pinch, but it's practically impossible to build a solid contact coil without heating and squeezing.

Thanks

 

[BluSwatch]

All of my coils seem to do fine initially, but then don't last longer than a day .... I start getting the weird readings, switching to voltage display, whatever.

The coil I showed yesterday did well all night, read as temp protected, and vaped pretty well.
It read 0.12 on my box, and 0.18 all night on the Hana.
NOW I wake up to this .... overnight a Bad Coil Fairy came and put in a 0.32 coil .....

 

[ED-209]

Sorry to hear about your troubles!
Not sure what a good way would be to pinpoint these problem really. Check the post connections, 510 positive pin, internal wiring to the negative pole of the 510 etc.

Thanks but not really sure what else I can do. I tried opening the device and other than seeing the positive and negative wire connections to the battery, I don't see anything else that I could possibly adjust as these wires seem to be soldered fine (as far as I can tell). If I try to view the 510 connection or other circuitry I would void the warranty. Also even if I was to view the board, I hear that they just use a ton of hot glue so not sure if that can just be pulled out or not (as you can tell I'm not the most electronic savvy person).

I've tried adjusting the pin on my Russian V2 and that does nothing. I'm not over tightening the atty but it does make a definite flush connection. Like BluSwatch said above, mine does the EXACT same thing. It will seem to be working fine in Temperature Protection mode, then the ohms will jump .25 or go up and down while firing. Sometimes the TP mode will kick on and the preheat option takes effect, other times it doesn't. I am by far no expert in coils or Nickel but for the last 2 years I've been using silica and kanthal and know how to build a decent coil and I've been vaping for over 4 years now so not exactly new to the game. No matter what type of Nickel coil I build (contact or spaced out), I always get glowing coils after I eliminate any hotspots.

I've emailed Evolv initially asking about other features (preheat, battery performance) and they responded within 3 days and then I replied to that email, sent another email and then submitted another message on their site asking about these recent inconsistencies I've been getting but have yet to receive a reply yet. I haven't contacted Hana Modz yet as I'm waiting to hear back from Evolv. I am at my wit's end with this thing and surely there has to be an issue with either the mod or the chip (but mainly thinking the mod) as I really can't believe it's something I'm not doing right BUT if it is, then I guess using Nickel isn't for me as I can't spend hours trying to build the perfect coil. I just hope the other person here who sent their Hana back to be fixed has some good results, otherwise I just have a $250 device that will become a nice paperweight.

Again, apologies for the RANT but just wanted to express my concern and disappointment as I can understand getting erratic behavior from a clone (even though they seem to work fine) but for $250, you would think by now they would have perfected their mod to a point where things just work as it's not rocket science to connect\solder wires to a board.

Vape On!!!

 

[DejayRezme]

Oh I just noticed something! If you insert the battery into the mod while the atty is hot, the base resistance will go up! It will NOT ask you "old/new" coil and apparently doesn't remember the "base resistance" used as a reference. This could be a cause for errors. I would have assumed it remembers the base resistance on battery change! If I do this (fire, remove battery, put back in) the resistance shows 0.14ohm instead of 0.10 ohm it did before removing the battery. I was able to reproduce this several times.

EDIT: Due to my problem with the screen garbling my chip "resets" after about 4 min and the problem occurs there too. But this doesn't seem to be standard behavior. If my screen doesn't get garbled the chip won't reset and assume the wrong resistance, so that only applies to my personal chip. But be sure to let the atty cool when replacing the battery.

Thanks but not really sure what else I can do. I tried opening the device and other than seeing the positive and negative wire connections to the battery, I don't see anything else that I could possibly adjust as these wires seem to be soldered fine (as far as I can tell). If I try to view the 510 connection or other circuitry I would void the warranty.

Yeah I would not want to void the warranty either and also internal soldering will rarely be the problem. I'm not an electronics guy. Maybe you can hunt down where the connection problem is exactly with a multimeter, checking the resistance? Maybe try a different atty which has better 510 or post connectivity? Even though the kayfun should be fine. Other than fixing the 510 and post connections, trying a different atty and maybe trying a spaced coil I don't know what to do. And if it's a problem with the 510 connection of the hana box then you should contact hana.

Would suck being able to only use the mod with Kanthal without taking advantage of TC.

 

[MattyT]

Thanks but not really sure what else I can do. I tried opening the device and other than seeing the positive and negative wire connections to the battery, I don't see anything else that I could possibly adjust as these wires seem to be soldered fine (as far as I can tell). If I try to view the 510 connection or other circuitry I would void the warranty. Also even if I was to view the board, I hear that they just use a ton of hot glue so not sure if that can just be pulled out or not (as you can tell I'm not the most electronic savvy person).

I've tried adjusting the pin on my Russian V2 and that does nothing. I'm not over tightening the atty but it does make a definite flush connection. Like BluSwatch said above, mine does the EXACT same thing. It will seem to be working fine in Temperature Protection mode, then the ohms will jump .25 or go up and down while firing. Sometimes the TP mode will kick on and the preheat option takes effect, other times it doesn't. I am by far no expert in coils or Nickel but for the last 2 years I've been using silica and kanthal and know how to build a decent coil and I've been vaping for over 4 years now so not exactly new to the game. No matter what type of Nickel coil I build (contact or spaced out), I always get glowing coils after I eliminate any hotspots.

I've emailed Evolv initially asking about other features (preheat, battery performance) and they responded within 3 days and then I replied to that email, sent another email and then submitted another message on their site asking about these recent inconsistencies I've been getting but have yet to receive a reply yet. I haven't contacted Hana Modz yet as I'm waiting to hear back from Evolv. I am at my wit's end with this thing and surely there has to be an issue with either the mod or the chip (but mainly thinking the mod) as I really can't believe it's something I'm not doing right BUT if it is, then I guess using Nickel isn't for me as I can't spend hours trying to build the perfect coil. I just hope the other person here who sent their Hana back to be fixed has some good results, otherwise I just have a $250 device that will become a nice paperweight.

Again, apologies for the RANT but just wanted to express my concern and disappointment as I can understand getting erratic behavior from a clone (even though they seem to work fine) but for $250, you would think by now they would have perfected their mod to a point where things just work as it's not rocket science to connect\solder wires to a board.

Vape On!!!

I feel your pain, I was so ...... that for 2 days it was working great and then all of a sudden its not working properly. Then having to pay for shipping to send it back after just spending $250 did not make me happy to say the least.

After reading some of the posts since my last, I am really leaning towards there being an issue with the 510 and not the DNA but who knows. Mine would not only go in and out of TC with a Nickel build but the DNA was using TC when I had a Kanthal build which it should not do. I would assume that if the connection between the atty and the device is not a sufficient one that it could cause the DNA to read the coil incorrectly hence why its going in and out of TC on a nickel build and running TC on a Kanthal build for me. With all the BETA testers that I have seen videos from and listened to, they never once talked of any issues like this, they all had good things to say about their experience. That being said, I am leaning towards it being a Hana issue not a DNA issue.

ED-209 I would call Hana right away, as well as anyone else who is having issues with their Hana, dont wait to here from Evolve. The more people calling them with issues, or the same issue, the more aware they will be that they may have a problem on their hands that will need to be addressed. If only a few people decide to call then they wont realize the problem is possibly bigger then it appears. If it ends up being a DNA issue, Hana will have direct contact with Evolve and they can then figure out what actions are necessary. My gut is telling me its a Hana issue, this is my first Hana but not my first DNA and I have never had any issues in the past with any of my DNA mods. Even if you rather wait to see what happens with mine before sending yours thats fine, but definitely call or e-mail Hana and let them know your having all the same types of issues that I have.

 

[OthatGuy]

Very much agreed!