DNA20 Sick Mod bottom Feeder

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studiovap

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A picture tells a thousand words. and i'm tp tired to write much tonight, but I finally got time time to use one of my DNA20 chips in a new Sick mod bottom feeder, this time using Queen Ebony, I was quite pleased to keep it as compact as it came out.

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studiovap

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This has been waiting for it's debut for a few weeks, but I still havn't got round to drilling a squank hole in the cover, kind of used to popping off the cover to squank and on to other things now, so thought I'd post the pics.
This one uses Barium Copper contacts and firing pin/leaf spring to try and squeeze the most power and least voltage drop from my 18350s, all I kan say is its a bloody pocket rocker with 3.9v under load with a 0.8 ohm coil.
It has a 4ml capacity and is super small in the hand, stealthy :)
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WidowsSon

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Nice work... some hot glue on the dna will do the trick unless you want to remove it at some point. If thats the case, just get some 1 inch shrink tubing and place the whole board in it (display out one side and wires out the other), heat it and then seal the ends with hot glue.
 
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turbocad6

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hot glue would be good, I get the waiting till the bugs are ironed out part, I killed my dna in that time period myself is the only reason I'm bringing it up, from now on sealing it up is going to be part of my initial installation on any bottom feeder, nothing sucks more than having it work awesome for a while and then oppps, it don't, especially when the damn things aren't even available to replace atm... :)
 

studiovap

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hot glue would be good, I get the waiting till the bugs are ironed out part, I killed my dna in that time period myself is the only reason I'm bringing it up, from now on sealing it up is going to be part of my initial installation on any bottom feeder, nothing sucks more than having it work awesome for a while and then oppps, it don't, especially when the damn things aren't even available to replace atm... :)
Yeah, I'm hoping it survies the testing period, hot glue might not be the answer though as I will end up glueing the buttons if I do both sides of the board, do you think just doing the back would suffice?
I can just seal the inside of the divider, where the wires pass through , and the top open slot, and juice in through the buttons would be through serious negligence on my part, and would kill most commercial VV/VW mods anyway I would have thought.
 

turbocad6

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ahh dna's finally became available again just this afternoon, got an email and just ordered 2 more. yeah I'd hate to see this happen to anyone else, the dna is awesome but moisture and especially juice is def it's Achilles heel. mine have been killed by just trace amounts of juice on the button face side. juice can wick along the wires, def do whatever you think but this is def something to at least be concerned about, mine lasted and worked great for almost a month, but I would really like to make it last much longer than that. hell you could even use candle wax if you want something you can rework easily enough. I'm considering using a waterproofing spray, I'm researching the best way to do this but I will def seal it up upon install this time, loosing 2 dna's to this sucked enough, and believe me even after the first time I thought I was aware and careful the second time around but it's difficult to be careful enough, a little is all it takes bro, just a heads up here :)
 

studiovap

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ahh dna's finally became available again just this afternoon, got an email and just ordered 2 more. yeah I'd hate to see this happen to anyone else, the dna is awesome but moisture and especially juice is def it's Achilles heel. mine have been killed by just trace amounts of juice on the button face side. juice can wick along the wires, def do whatever you think but this is def something to at least be concerned about, mine lasted and worked great for almost a month, but I would really like to make it last much longer than that. hell you could even use candle wax if you want something you can rework easily enough. I'm considering using a waterproofing spray, I'm researching the best way to do this but I will def seal it up upon install this time, loosing 2 dna's to this sucked enough, and believe me even after the first time I thought I was aware and careful the second time around but it's difficult to be careful enough, a little is all it takes bro, just a heads up here :)
Thanks mate, I have a spare module standing by, but I hope that will find it's way into a new home when I have a bit more time.
The waterproofing spray sounds like a good solution without swollowing the board in hot glue.
I'm thinking candle wax would be prone to melting under heavy use as the big square thing (technical term :)) on the board does get pretty hot hey?
 
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studiovap

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Beautiful work man you should be and I am sure are very proud of your accomplishment

Thanks mack, yes it is very satisfying to use and admire, I would have done a few things differently after the fact, but if I had thought anymore about it I would never have got started with it. Once I get going I'm committed and will solve any problem as and when I come across them. I spent a day considering how to cut a small oblong hole into the 6.5mm ebony, when I had cut it I was not happy with how it looked (i.e. not uniform enough) then I spent another day despondent about it and racking my brains about how to solve the issue, looking at my old brass car key gave me an idea, and a quick trip to the key cutters and I had a selection of brass plates with various oval and oblong uniform holes cut out of them, the keys were miscuts and were given it me for free, and I was very happy with the end result, when you are working with few tools and next to no materials that is when the ingenuity has to kick in or you get stuck. It has been a process, but I'm a bit proud :)
 

studiovap

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Elegant simplicity, a very noble mod with clean lines. Excellent job. What finish are you using on these?

Thanks mate, the finish is superglue, good super glue! "Zap Ca/Thin Ca", I sand the wood "Queen Ebony " in this case, to around 800 grit, then make a square pad with tissue paper, then apply a liberal amount of the glue to the edge of one side of the pad, and wipe onto one or two surfaces at a time, so I can avoid gluing myself to it, and can lay it on the untreated side/sides to wait for it to dry (5-15 seconds) then after a couple of minures I sand it back with 1500 grit wet and dry if I want a glass finish or the 800 again if I want a more matt surface (my preference).
The Zap Ca is super hard, and water proof, and if I should scratch it after a hard knock, a quick sand, wipe, sand, and I have a fresh finish, very quick, very easy and very reapirable.
 
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