Hey fellow vapers, i recently started using a variable voltage battery, and i was wondering... Since you give the coil more power from the battery...does it get burned faster? Does a higher voltage decrease coil life?
Do higher voltage settings decrease coil life?
- Thread starter Masty
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Short answer yes. Higher voltage = higher wattage/heat. But if the wick system is good and can keep up probably not. If your getting dry hits (heat w/o vapor) then it will. Heating and cooling the coil oxidizes it so the coil will suffer.
You didn't say what you are using, so I'm assuming some type of clearo like a Kanger Protank.
Consider the sauce pan anology: At low heat you can get a sauce to simmer. At high heat you end up burning the sauce onto the hottest part of the pan. You can't un-burn the sauce off the pan once you do that.
The same holds true of your coil and wick. If you run it at a voltage/temperature hotter than needed you end up burning flavoring components onto the coil and transferring that into the wick as well. Once you do that you cannot un-ring the bell - the coil/wick will need to be cleaned or replaced. Even at a lower temperature the coil and wick will eventually pick up enough gunk that it will need to be replaced, the typical indicator being everything tastes harsh and burnt no matter what voltage you try. But ramping up the voltage too high is a sure-fire way to make that happen faster.
If you are using any type of clearo - ProTank, EVOD, Vivi Nova, CE4 etc. - always start a new coil (or a new liquid for that matter) at your lowest available voltage and only move the voltage up until you hit the flavor and vapor production you are looking for. Do not over think this point - voltages stated in those "charts" for any given resistance coil should only be considered a loose suggestion at best.
Consider the sauce pan anology: At low heat you can get a sauce to simmer. At high heat you end up burning the sauce onto the hottest part of the pan. You can't un-burn the sauce off the pan once you do that.
The same holds true of your coil and wick. If you run it at a voltage/temperature hotter than needed you end up burning flavoring components onto the coil and transferring that into the wick as well. Once you do that you cannot un-ring the bell - the coil/wick will need to be cleaned or replaced. Even at a lower temperature the coil and wick will eventually pick up enough gunk that it will need to be replaced, the typical indicator being everything tastes harsh and burnt no matter what voltage you try. But ramping up the voltage too high is a sure-fire way to make that happen faster.
If you are using any type of clearo - ProTank, EVOD, Vivi Nova, CE4 etc. - always start a new coil (or a new liquid for that matter) at your lowest available voltage and only move the voltage up until you hit the flavor and vapor production you are looking for. Do not over think this point - voltages stated in those "charts" for any given resistance coil should only be considered a loose suggestion at best.
Yes, but unless you actually burn it out, probably not in a measurable way. Most can be cleaned and dry burned to restore proper function - i.e. burning off the gunk.
In practice, other than needing periodic cleaning and maintenance, the wicks will deteriorate first. Replace them after dry burning and the coil itself can last a long time regardless of the voltage / power setting used.
And even if / when the coil actually fails, most can be rebuilt. If you're using Kanger types, and don't want to delve into that just yet, keep all your old ones. You may decide to get into that part of the vaping hobby at some future date.
The gunking up Rick mentions is the primary cause of coils' performance fall off, not the kanthal actually going away. It's just covered with baked on crud that impedes the heat transfer and gives a bad taste. As Steve says, yes, the kanthal is gradually going to deteriorate, but it takes a long time.
In practice, other than needing periodic cleaning and maintenance, the wicks will deteriorate first. Replace them after dry burning and the coil itself can last a long time regardless of the voltage / power setting used.
And even if / when the coil actually fails, most can be rebuilt. If you're using Kanger types, and don't want to delve into that just yet, keep all your old ones. You may decide to get into that part of the vaping hobby at some future date.
The gunking up Rick mentions is the primary cause of coils' performance fall off, not the kanthal actually going away. It's just covered with baked on crud that impedes the heat transfer and gives a bad taste. As Steve says, yes, the kanthal is gradually going to deteriorate, but it takes a long time.
It can cause them to gunk faster if your juice flow doesn't keep up. You can extend coil life before gunking by releasing the fire button a second before you stop dragging. This action coils the coil so it doesn't sit there hot and just cook the juice to the coil.
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