Derp. Conceptual dyslexia strikes again.I'm curious to hear thoughts on mesh wick with mesh coil
I've thought about it, but seems like a lot of work to make a mesh wick...then again I eat through wicks a lot with my juice, it's a coil gunker
I will be when next month rolls around I think. Gonna buy a profile RDA and see if it squonks like one of these big ghetto radiator coils I’ve been failing to wrap reliably.
Derp. Conceptual dyslexia strikes again.
I haven’t vaped a mesh wick in years. I don’t have a working atty that will even take one any more. I looked recently. They’re great for MTL though after you get them working right. Flavor is really clean and they last a long time. I wonder how they would do with a bit of modern vape technology thrown at them. They’re from back in the “tilt and vape” era, and they could leak if not held upright. Both issues would have to be fixed.
I dunno what mesh coil. Never heard of mesh cord. Mesh wick was this old school stuff used in genesis atomizers. They were a lot like RDTAs but with a few differences. You rolled up a piece of really fine mesh stainless screen really tight into a tube and burned it repeatedly till it was covered in carbon, which acted as a low voltage insulator. The tube was straight up and down through a hole in the deck. You did a vertical coil on one end of the mesh wick, and capillary action pulled the juice from the tank up to the vape chamber.Mesh coil as in the newer mesh sub ohm style coils? Or mesh cord. I use mesh cord on a mesh wick. Great vape.
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I dunno what mesh coil. Never heard of mesh cord. Mesh wick was this old school stuff used in genesis atomizers. They were a lot like RDTAs but with a few differences. You rolled up a piece of really fine mesh stainless screen really tight into a tube and burned it repeatedly till it was covered in carbon, which acted as a low voltage insulator. The tube was straight up and down through a hole in the deck. You did a vertical coil on one end of the mesh wick, and capillary action pulled the juice from the tank up to the vape chamber.
There were a couple of advantages and disadvantages:
Pros:
-You could dry burn the coil with the wick in it, so the wick lasted as long as the coil did or longer. Once they were set up and working they’d go for months and months.
-Because the wick was stainless the flavor was unusually clean and bright
Cons:
-the mesh wicks would pull juice, but not a ton of it, so they were MTL only.
-They also wouldn’t make a seal with the hole in the deck, so if you tipped them over they leaked.
-Since the wick was straight up and down, when you got near the bottom of a tank there wouldn’t be a lot of wick in the juice any more. The solution was to tilt the vape to wet the wick:”tilt and vape”
There were variants for a while such as porous ceramic rods used in place of the stainless steel. They eventually turned into ceramic coils I think. Not sure about that one.
Starting to have thoughts about how this might be turned into something with modern uses. A very very long lasting wick coil combo maybe that could be made at home and used like a large coil cartridge that could be dry burned. Have to draw pictures. IPhones suck for drawing pictures. Oh well.
Saw the photo. Hard to tell age. That thing doesn’t look any different than a back-in-the-day genesis style. The U shaped bit on the deck is new to me. Not sure what that’s for.Look a couple posts up. It’s a photo of my current genny with a mesh wick and mesh cord coil. This atty is less then 2 months old. As for more modern applications, people are using mesh wick rolls in RTAs like the dvarw. Mtl or restricted lung hits are fine. My thunderbolt can be built with dual mesh rolls and coils if wanted, but I prefer the tight draw and high Nic. Tobacco flavors never tasted this good on cotton.
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Saw the photo. Hard to tell age. That thing doesn’t look any different than a back-in-the-day genesis style. The U shaped bit on the deck is new to me. Not sure what that’s for.
There was a thing for a while of rewick omg evo microcoils with mesh wicks. Worked pretty well iirc. It really helped that they were short.
The issue iirc was the things just don’t bend well. It can be done but it’s kind of a PITA. Most attys just aren’t designed for mesh wicks, and you still have the tipping issue. I got a theory involving multiple coils and silicone caulk. Get enough MTL coils and you got pretty good DL. SMOK of all organizations proved that one. If you can dry burn with the wick in place manufacturing and maintainance suddenly get very easy very fast. The only remaining questions are how well does silicone take to carbon coated stainless, and can a 3d printable jig be developed to make casting a coil cartridge home brew simple.
nope. Silicone is fantastically heat resistant and is a pretty good heat conductor to boot. It’s standard for engine block gaskets these days. The issue is there are many kinds, and you’ll need stuff that doesn’t put gasSilicone caulk?? Wouldn’t that melt?
For RDAs no. For RTAs generally yes. Still, for MTL squonking there might be something thereYou don’t have to bend mesh wick any more for Rda’s.
looks like “mesh cord” is exotic coil wire, kind of. Not uninteresting stuff though. I can see some exotic coil winders taking an interest in it.Tipping isn’t necessary if you build correctly. You can find mesh cord, mesh sheets, rolled curved mesh wicks, etc. at:
Vaper's Breath
someone mentioned a book in Russian about genesis atty improvements a while back. Was looking for a translator. The whole thing disappeared from view. Not sure what came of it. Might be an interesting read, but written Russian is exceptionally difficult for EU and USA people to deal with.The u shakes bit on the deck basically reduces the chamber size of the atty to intensify flavor. Otherwise you are correct, genesis atty’s haven’t changed much in style, not many people make them anymore. It’s a niche market, and mostly found from modders in Eastern Europe.
nope. Silicone is fantastically heat resistant and is a pretty good heat conductor to boot. It’s standard for engine block gaskets these days.
Well crap. And the stuff I was thinking of using is only good to 450f. Plus at very high temps it seems to release formaldehyde. I got zero ways to seal mesh wicks from leakage now. Hmm.... there’s cast ceremics, but they’d need to have very similar heat expansion characteristics as the wick itself and they’re an order of magnitude more annoying to work with. It can be done. There are coils that do it. I don’t know enough about the chemistry to do it though clearly.Normal operating temperature for a modern gas engine is 195-220 degrees Fahrenheit. In TC I vape at 480 degrees. Glowing coils for dry burns exceed 1200 degrees. Silicone is stable to 572. So slightly higher then the temp it takes to start torching cotton.
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Well crap. And the stuff I was thinking of using is only good to 450f. Plus at very high temps it seems to release formaldehyde. I got zero ways to seal mesh wicks from leakage now. Hmm.... there’s cast ceremics, but they’d need to have very similar heat expansion characteristics as the wick itself and they’re an order of magnitude more annoying to work with. It can be done. There are coils that do it. I don’t know enough about the chemistry to do it though clearly.
well not me. Formaldehyde is one of the cigarette chemicals the prevention of which vaping was invented. Kind of defeats the point.Well hang on now. Formaldehyde....there are some folks who might enjoy that[emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23]
you’re talking about the wick itself leaking. I’m talking about the space between the wick and the deck.Seriously though, with the right mesh grade, measures an rolled correctly, it wicks very well and doesn’t leak, provided you aren’t using anything thinner then 60/40 or 50/50 at the thinnest.
I don’t do Facebook. That whole industry desperately needs some legal boundaries and they don’t have any.Try searching “mesh wicking a dvarw rta.” If you can’t find it elsewhere the KHW Facebook page has people that can help. Good luck dude. I’m going to bed.