I've already covered some of the advantages of a mech in a previous post in this thread. One of the characteristics is that the battery starts out at 4.2V unloaded when fully charged and drops from that point on. As voltage decreases, so does current, power, and vapor. Mech users consciously at first, then soon unconsciously, use a bit longer draw as battery voltage falls, to get the same vapor in each hit. This is not a big deal. For best battery life, you want to use it in the upper half of the charge, so you pull it for recharge at about 3.6 volts. Starting out, you'll use a multimeter to find that out, but you'll soon develop a sense from when you get there by the rate of vapor production.
Many new mech owners start out with disposable cartos or attys on their mech. You want to stay in the ohm range most manufacturers consider LOW, i.e. LR. That can be as much resistance as 2.0Ω for about 8W down to 6W of power. You increase the power by going lower on the resistance, for example, 1.5Ω yields about 11W down to 8W of power. You can custom tailor your resistance and/or go lower on resistance, even down into the sub-ohm range, by using a rebuildable dripping atomizer (RDA) or rebuildable tank atomizer (RBA), where you easily wind your own coils and wicks.
You can use something called a kick in a mechanical mod, an electronic circuit that keeps the coil voltage level like a regulated VV/VW mod. The advantages of this over the VV/VW mod is you can remove it wash the mod or use the mod without it in the event of electronics failure. It has several disadvantages; you have to use a smaller battery to make room for the kick, unless the mod has an extension tube or telescoping feature that accommodates its extra length on top of the largest battery (typically 18650), and unless you have one of these features, you have to maintain two different size sets of batteries. It's better if you're going to use a kick to use a mech designed for one. The unique disadvantage of a kick is you have neither the decreasing vape of a pure mechanical, nor the display of most VV/VW, to keep you appraised of the battery state of charge--you have to maintain a sense of how long and much you've used it. Current draw of a kick or VV/VW, increases as battery voltage falls, working the battery harder as it gets weaker, which shortens the life. VV/VW mods, which can typically only handle super-ohm coils, set at higher voltage, can draw as much current from a weakened battery as a sub-ohm coil.
I like to compare mech mods to manual transmissions and VV/VW mods to automatic transmissions, and there are fans of each. Kicks are about like that old 70's semi-automatic VW bug that engaged the clutch when you put your hand on the shift lever. I won't be surprised if our member here who's overly enamored with technology, compares his particular regulated mod to a multi-speed or CV auto with paddle shifters, which makes manuals "old-technology."

Vape on.