Does a "non" reading on my 10s clearo mean a bad coil or a bad clearo?

[Kandicat]

I have some clearos I get non readings on and don't know if bad coils are causing this or if the clearo itself actually bad. Does anyone know if the clear tank gives a reading or does the reading come strictly from the coil?

 

[suspectK]

The pin probably needs to get pushed down a little. I'm not familiar with the 10s...but if the pin can't be moved, you can wiggle it. If that doesn't work, you can gently pull up on the firing pin of your PV.

coils do pop, so it is possible that it is the coil, but not likely..

 

[Kandicat]

It is funny because the others work fine. I can try that, thanks.

 

[Giraut]

NON means no connection (or in other words ∞Ω). 0 means short-circuit (0Ω). The normal value for a working 10S should be just over 2Ω. FWIW, when I bought my iTaste VV v3 kit, 2 out of 5 clearomizers were faulty. My friendly local vapacconist replaced them on the spot though.

 

[Jibbu]

I have to use the shortie adapters on all my 10s clearo's, and still have to raise the center pins most of the time. And one of my eGp's won't work with a 10s no matter what I do. Maybe an adapter is what you need?

 

[Sugar_and_Spice]

I have to use the shortie adapters on all my 10s clearo's, and still have to raise the center pins most of the time. And one of my eGp's won't work with a 10s no matter what I do. Maybe an adapter is what you need?

If you are using an adapter, look carefully at it and you will see a slot where you can try gently screwing the center pin of the adapter up or down. I recommend trying only 1/4 turns and try. Turning to the right lifts it, turning it left lowers it. Try turning it left a quarter turn and see if it fires. Use eyeglass screw driver. You will find the slot on the opposite side of where you screw it onto battery.
Hope this helps.

 

[Kandicat]

Not using an adapter. I never heard of those. I have three clearos and one older coil causing the issue. I cleaned the threads on the clearos and have new coils coming.

 

[spawnsharks]

If I move a tank from my Kamry to my MVP, I get this. The Kamry's connector pin is positioned such that it tends to push the base of the head connector in a bit. Because of this, I have dedicated tanks for each mod, and if I have to swap them, I just wiggle the connector base on the head out a bit.

 

[Kandicat]

I raised the pin and no luck. I only have one device right now, although I order an MVP v2 yesterday. I also tried the coil on three different clearos and got the same non issue. As far as wiggling the connector base on the head out a bit? Are you talking on the tank or the clearo? I can't see how to wiggle anything on the clearos since the coils screw in.

 

[crxess]

This (=) is your Battery top and Clearo Pin NOT TOUCHING
Change coils all you want.

Until you recognize the issue and learn to:
1)Not over tighten
2)Adjust Battery pin back up into proper position
3)Adjust clearo pin down, as needed

You will have hit and miss usage. Eventually nothing may work if the gap gets to large for any device to span.

 

[DaveP]

Over tightening happens to all of us. That pushes the center pin down into the carto and finally it doesn't touch anymore. We all need a volt-ohm meter to check coils. You can quickly determine if it's the coil or the pin in a few seconds with a meter.

If you look at the threads on your clearo, you will probably see that the center pin is recessed on the ones that don't work. The center pin should be even with or maybe should protrude a half millimeter out from the edge of the threads in order to make contact with the center pin on the mod. If you get it a little too far out, it will adjust itself when you screw it on. The center pin rides inside a silicone sleeve to prevent short circuits.

 

[Kandicat]

Got it. Now I see the clearo pin and adjusted. They all work. I don't over tighten. These were used on another 10s device that no longer works. That probably caused the issue. Thanks for all the info.

 

[skoony]

if you have replaced the coil and wick assembly i have found that some
will not contact the center pin in the cartridge assembly.
i have had to pull out the center pin of the coil assemble a little or
carefully swap out the center pin of the old coil assembly to the new one.
the tolerances used in the manufacturing of these devices is abysmal.
i'm talking branded stuff here too.
either that or these parts are being rushed through assembly to fast for the workers to use proper care
in handling the parts.
regards
mike

 

[DaveP]

if you have replaced the coil and wick assembly i have found that some
will not contact the center pin in the cartridge assembly.
i have had to pull out the center pin of the coil assemble a little or
carefully swap out the center pin of the old coil assembly to the new one.
the tolerances used in the manufacturing of these devices is abysmal.
i'm talking branded stuff here too.
either that or these parts are being rushed through assembly to fast for the workers to use proper care
in handling the parts.
regards
mike

The receding center pin is something that has been discussed for years on ECF. The problem is that there has to be insulation between the center pin and the outer threaded tube. They use a silicone sleeve for that. A little pressure here and there over time and eventually you start getting random misfires and finally no vape at all. We make a home made tool for that out of a paper clip. You just bend the long leg of a jumbo paper clip out straight and use needle nose pliers to make a tiny right angle on the end. Stick it in the hole and bias it outward as you pull and jiggle and the pin returns to where it should be.

If you get too aggressive and the pin comes out, just push it back into the silicone sleeve and adjust it to where it is flush or extends out of the hole by a couple of thicknesses of paper.

 

[Kandicat]

Thanks DaveP and skoony.

 

[beecherjeeper]

Just an observation based on my own experience--be sure the connection is perfectly dry on both ends.