I don't know if its just me or what but I have a couple rda's that are my favorites I like to use but they'll stay at the resistance I want them too and intended to build them too then the screw on them will somehow come loose every 4-5 re drips.. when this happens the ohms will jump from like .24-.25 to .29-.35 all of a sudden and I'll get a dry hit a lot easier. Are these screws just that cheap that they can't stay in right? This has happened with my Turbo rda, Mutation X V4, and Atty squared v3. I'll usually just go in there and tighten up the screws and it'll go back to normal but then will continue to go back out on their own eventually. It's a pain in the .... especially when I'm out and don't have a little screwdriver handy. The rda's are all authentic as well. Any input is appreciated!
Does anyone else have this problem with certain RDA's?
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That tends to happen a lot. the Kanthal wire when it gets heat cycles gets soft and goes through some scientifically crappy expansion adn contraction. this causes the screws to loosen. also I notice it a lot with cap headded screws. i find that replacing the cap head screws with hex keyed grub screws minimizes this. and I normally check tightness every day or so.
Yes this has happened to me---especially with the phillips head screws------and not so much with the allen head screws.
I have had 24 guage loosen up on me but it seemed when I went to 28 guage it held a little better....maybe just me...I don't know...
I have had 24 guage loosen up on me but it seemed when I went to 28 guage it held a little better....maybe just me...I don't know...
Besides the affects of expansion and contraction from heating and cooling.. There is the erosive affect of friction. Every time you tighten and loosen a screw, you are causing wear to the screw and threads.. The threads wear down on both. Gets worse or better, when you have a soft metal used in one and a harder metal in the other.
Does wattage have an effect on the loosening of screws? I have never had that happen to me but I never vape more than 45 Watts
Yep, I get it on phillips head screws. I try and replace them with grub nuts where I can.
Although I wouldnt say it happens as much as it does for you but about once a day I'll have to tighten them.
Although I wouldnt say it happens as much as it does for you but about once a day I'll have to tighten them.
It doesnt help when quality of materials even on "authentics" lately looks pretty cheap n flimsy, part of the issue is the poorly made post design. They arent designing a true capture point, just drilling a hole in the side of a cheap hollow threaded rod. And now with so many usibg real thick wire the screw doesnt bind like it should.
Gets worse with thin wires. any of the drilled posts wont grab a small diameter wire at all. Stupid slots and oblong holes are the worse, IMO. I use mostly 28-32 wire. Have to change allen heads to regular headed screws, So I can trap on the screw, rather than in the hole where, I have to be lucky enough to wedge the wire in the threads to get a trap or tighten so much I'm cutting the wire. which just ruins the threading.
Then there is the brass or cooper post with a stainless or Hardened steel screw, or the other-way around.
I get this a lot with my Dark horse it's one of the reasons i don't use it much anymore. Only RDA's I really use now are my YEP RDA's. They're simple, easy to build on and vape just how I like. Also I can't ever remember the screws backing out on them.
I've very rarely had a problem with screws backing out, but I'm struggling to understand why grubs would be less prone to this than philips head?
More thread in contact with post but just about everything I have with grub screws likes to cut wire. Just depends on how the screw end is machined, most Phillips are flat and grubs are conical, in my experience.
Seems to happen occasionally on my Vertex V2 but my Tugboat V2 has been solid. With Expansion and contraction due to heat cycles this does seem inevitable. Unless threads are very closely and accurately milled it's bound to happen. Also different materials will expand and contract at different rates, our RDA'S might be Stainless Steel but our screws and grub screws aren't in the majority of cases.
Always have a screw driver handy
Always have a screw driver handy
My phillips head screws on my Odin work well and never loosen up. Then again I'm the guy who over tightens stuff to their breaking point quite often. 
You might try pre annealing the wire prior to use, put a micro torch on it and get it cheery before even winding them, this can help as the wire is made soft to begin with. My biggest complaint is poor post holes and screws with sharp edges. I dress all of these prior to using it the first time so they don`t cut my wire right when I have the screw at just the right tension. I take a micro rat tail file to the post holes and then finish them with a tool called a burnisher, to removes the sharp edges and polish it. Then I take the screws over to the grinder and put a rounded bullet shape head on the threaded end. Even with all this prep I still give the screws a snug down with the first few wick changes and then they usually get along just fine after that. Iv got coils that are 6-7 months old that work fine and no longer back off.
BOL.
BOL.
That makes no sense. The threaded shaft is the same length, the only difference is that with phillips the head protrudes from the top rather than being recessed?
What gauge are you using with what kind of build?
It happens sometimes, but it shouldn't be a common thing throughout the day, that's just annoying.
Sometimes you get bad screws that are sharp and cutting leads. Smooth it out with sand paper, should fix a sharp screw issue. Sometimes leads can get caught on the side between the screw threading and the post causing a loose connection, re adjust so the lead is under the screw when you tighten down if it's that.
If the leads, screws, and posts all looks like it's trapping properly then you shouldn't run into that issue that often like you're describing. It could be a bad post or screw. If all else fails try different screws. Metric hex screws work nicely. It's also possible that's there is too much heat.
It happens sometimes, but it shouldn't be a common thing throughout the day, that's just annoying.
Sometimes you get bad screws that are sharp and cutting leads. Smooth it out with sand paper, should fix a sharp screw issue. Sometimes leads can get caught on the side between the screw threading and the post causing a loose connection, re adjust so the lead is under the screw when you tighten down if it's that.
If the leads, screws, and posts all looks like it's trapping properly then you shouldn't run into that issue that often like you're describing. It could be a bad post or screw. If all else fails try different screws. Metric hex screws work nicely. It's also possible that's there is too much heat.
Its actually pretty simple. However the threads are the exact some on the posts the grubs tend to actually go deeper into the post to where the Post's threads are exposed above the top of the little grub screw which makes it harder to push upward. And the top of the Phillips is just sticking up in the air.
Sometimes such as with my dark horse clone the holes are just low enough that the cap on the screw head hits the top of the post before the bottom of the screw can secure the coil in the bottom of the hole. 24g is fine, 26G is hit or miss, 28G I can tighten the screw the entire way down, but the screw cap hitting the top of the post will not allow the screw to trap the coil wire at all. I can simply pull it out.
As to the conical vs. flat screw bottom... I normally take my new grub screws to my diamond hone and flatten the bottom and then make it slightly domed so as to not cut wires so easily.
As to the conical vs. flat screw bottom... I normally take my new grub screws to my diamond hone and flatten the bottom and then make it slightly domed so as to not cut wires so easily.
You offered some very good advice there.
Thinner higher gauge wirea like 30 really has this problem. I usually only build with 26 gauge. Less likely to break the coil in the expansion and contraction.
Direct opposite for me, grub screws do not cut the wire but phillips screws do..
I like grub as well they stay seated and can be tightened better.. Most atomizer modders move to grubs and it is because of the conical shape they rarely slice the wire off but can if atomizer is really built badly. The screws flat shape make a scissor action in a lot of atomizers..
I like grub as well they stay seated and can be tightened better.. Most atomizer modders move to grubs and it is because of the conical shape they rarely slice the wire off but can if atomizer is really built badly. The screws flat shape make a scissor action in a lot of atomizers..
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