I've only used one rda before and I'm just now learning to build my own coils. Typically the guys at the vape shop will build me a coil that will clock in at around .3 ohms. Now my issue is, as soon as they make it.. it will work great for the first 5 hits then it becomes dry.. Then all this strange stuff happens with the RDA.. the RDA is the TURBO by Tobeco.. It's got a little cooling fan inside that makes a whistling sound but when it does work right blows crazy clouds at around 80-120 watts. Now almost everytime I use the damn thing, the ohms will suddenly jump up to .5 and when I go to hit it and keep in my mind its not dry and full of juice.. I'll get the nastiest hit that burns so bad It's almost as bad as a dry hit, but it's not a dry it. I usually go in there with the screwdriver make sure the cotton is grounded and just move .... around a bit, fire it until it goes back down to .3ohms.. then I know it's good to go again and I won't be inhaling what feels and burns like burnt metal almost and just sets my throat on fire. This can't be normal for the RDA'S.. What could be causing this? It'll literally happen the same day the coil is built by the guys. Any explanations would be greatly appreciated guys! Cheers.
Problem with my RDA.. Don't know if this is normal..
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Sounds like a loose wire connection to me. I don't think it has much to do with the cotton wick.
Tighten your screws, and redrip on your coils/wick. Sounds like you're getting dry hits, it could be because of under/over-wicking in your coils/juice well, or your wicks could be burnt out already. If that's the case rewick your coils, make sure all your coil leads are fastened down nice and snug, and drip away.
Right, bad connection on one coil -- using variable power. The mod tries to put out the same watts all into one coil. If you can switch your mod to variable voltage this should stop. You still need to fix the connection, but the VV will confirm, and can keep using if you want or not.
sounds like the wick inside the coil is going dry, either use a bit less wick to allow faster wicking, or go with shorter draw times at that wattage... like 1/2 a second... also you may want to pull the cap and do a test fire to see if you are getting a hot leg on the coil(s). how long do you wait between draws? the wick needs time to resoak up inside the coil ( after the coils cool a bit) wicking is slowed because the coils are too hot to allow juice into the coil area ( vapor barrier effect)... let the coils cool down a bit.
My GFs sister has a Turbo, and has had the same problem. I washed it in a supersonic cleaner with everything taken apart, and now it works. I finally convinced her to get a new one, the fan is useless, and it keeped needing to be cleaned.
Yeah I figured it was a turbo related issue because it's the only RDA i've used. I think when I get my next one I'll realize that it was mainly the turbo that was the problem. It's definitely not a dry hit because it will happen sometimes on the first hit after I have filled up the atty completely. Also definitely not the cotton because it'll happen with brand new cotton as well.
Just the ohms pop up from .3 to .5 and it tastes like pure crap when I inhale and throat gets burnt. Now when it's working properly 30% of the time I have no issues and get plenty of clouds and good flavor.. Time to try a new RDA I think!
Just the ohms pop up from .3 to .5 and it tastes like pure crap when I inhale and throat gets burnt. Now when it's working properly 30% of the time I have no issues and get plenty of clouds and good flavor.. Time to try a new RDA I think!
how long do you wait after you fill it ( when the first hit is a dry situation)
Unfortunately it's not necessarily a "Turbo related issue", but a poorly manufactured/desinged RDA issue. This is all too common these days (or at least this year) with even some higher priced RDAs. Screws that clip wires or back out are no bueno and I have replacement screws (grub screws) so this doesn't happen because when it does, it is VERY bad for the user. It feels like it is frying your throat.
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And in all honesty, there isn't a true tubo in the RDA. That thing is the vape version of the Tornado for cars. And for that reason, I despise the false advertising haha.
This is exactly what it feels like.. it's not a dry hit with the cotton bad taste, it's a hit with the juice but it burns so bad it does feel like it's frying my throat.. It came with three extra screw... should I possibly have the guy build a new build with those screws? It's so frustrating because i paid 45$ for the damn atty and it works about 20% of the time so it's not even worth using.. ill screw the screws tight, ohms go back down to .3 where they belong i'll get one or two good hits, then BAM, still has plenty of juice left.. but it shoots up to .56ohms and fries my throat and not in a dry hit kind of way. Hopefully this isn't the case with all attys having to constantly mess with them I just think I got a ....ty one. I was going to pop in the vape shope today and get the MutationX V4 and see how that compares because I can't stand the damn turbo. I've seen people use it with no problem. I've had several different guys do the build as well, so I dont think it's on them. Any more explanations would help guys! Cheers.
I'm not understanding.. I drip it.. put the top back on and inhale? After it starts frying my throat it can be the first hit of the day when it's not hot at all or two or three hits into it.. Then i mess around with the screw untighten and tighten them then fire it to make sure it went back down to .3 ohms so I dont burn the crap out of my throat!
I'm almost afraid to buy the atty today, the mutation one if all RDA's have problems like this.. I really want to try it out though
You can clip the leads of your coils from over tightening screws as well. If your're afraid to buy an RDA or build your own coils maybe you should consider a sub-ohm tank. The clouds and flavor of RDAs, replacement coils, and you don't have to drip every 5-6 hits.
Don't use those screws. If you still want to use the RDA, I would go to SHOP - FatDaddyVapes.com - Home of the best vape tweaks and replacement hardware. and buy the set of 6 Grub Screws. One of those sets *should* fit. You'll still need a to buy some hex drivers (better than allen keys as the hex drivers will be less prone to stripping). I, like everyone, enjoy inexpensive things, but with the rise in inexpensive and cheaply made (or poorly designed) RDAs, this issue is more prevalent now.
Flat bottom screws, hex or socket head screws, screws meant to trap leads under the screw-heads or clamps are your best bets. Also, if you can find an RDA that has the posts holes that are not hollow beneath the post holes, you'll be golden.
Look at the flat bottoms of these screws and also notice how the (negative) post holes are not hollow.
(Image of the Aeolus v2 Pro post-holes.)
You 'll get good twerk and a solid connection with those screws (i.e., atties properly designed and well made). No worries of backing out or clipping wires.
p.s. Like others have said you could just switch to VV mode, but that doesn't solve the problem of bad connections, but it might save the fried throat.
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You'll get the problem with any dual coil setup with contact issues to the coils using variable wattage. That's what the resistance jump is telling you is happening. It's trying to put out constant power no matter what's connected. If it were a mech or variable voltage it would not be a crucial problem, just loss of vapor. It is said that VW adapts to whatever you're using, but that only means adapt in the sense of trying to put the same power into whatever it is. If the battery also displays voltage, you'll see it goes up when the resistance goes up.
Almost the only reason I use VW on my iStick is it gives an extra decimal point of adjustment and displays power in the larger part of the display.
Almost the only reason I use VW on my iStick is it gives an extra decimal point of adjustment and displays power in the larger part of the display.
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