does it really make a difference???

[vapero]

I've been looking a lot at some mechanical mods then suddenly I realized I didn't have the slightest idea what is the real difference between a simple (not vv nor vw) mech mod and a good ego battery. they do give a 3.7v output, and if I am mistaking besides battery life as well as cheaper price for a new set of batteries for the mod does it really make a difference on the vaping end??? does it taste better? give more flavor? ....

please enlighten me!

 

[tj99959]

Amp limits .......

 

[vapero]

still not seeing the point

 

[BWhare]

An eGo is regulated at 3.7 and will tell you when it's time to recharge. A mech will start out at whatever the battery is putting out (4.2?) and diminish until it's no longer satisfactory - probably around 3.5 - 3.7 if that's what you're accustomed to. Then you swap out batteries. Of course there's always stacking but that's a whole nother thang...

The primary difference is when an eGo dies, the head is dead and it's wasted metal unless you can find a use for something like that. A mechanical will die if you drive a rather large truck over it - and even then... sometimes not.

If you really need the regulation you can pick up a kick but that's an added expense and will probably have the same lifespan as the eGo did originally.

I guess it depends on what you either want or need.

 

[echofinder]

1) a mech mod can still do higher voltages than 3.7, based on the batteries you put in it & whether you stack them.

2) Good mech mods are very durable; my SB can take way more damage than the best eGo. Some people don't care, as eGo's are easy to replace, but some people like longevity... like how a knight would want a good sword which he could use for life.

3) Status symbol - an eGo won't impress anybody at the vapemoot!

4) battery life - I can carry 1 SB using 1 3000mah 18650, and it will last 3 days sans charger. For a 6 day travel I need 1 extra battery. That would be 6 eGo's!

It really is preference; most people don't NEED a mech mod (or any mod really). The practical differences are small and only super important to those with certain lifestyles.

 

[vapero]

thanks guys! that really cleared a lot!, so for now I'm set with my ego twist then! I know i will graduate to a mod later, but not now

 

[hvac999]

It tastes better and has more flavor by adjusting to taste. I can tell you when I started using my vv Gripper it was another world from my other ego type batteries. The ergonomics was better along with seeing my delivery device's ohms, how much power I had left and adjustable voltage, in tenths, from 3v - 6v. The hybrid batteries I bought give me enough power for almost 2 days.

 

[Vapor Vinny]

I built my first puck mod last week, which puts out about 4.8 volts on 4AAA batteries. Using my old 901 3ohm atomizers, it's the best vaping experience I've ever had. I'll never buy an ecig battery again.

 

[shatner]

Got a build thread? Link?

 

[Vapor Vinny]

Got a build thread? Link?

Super easy and costs less than $10. Get all parts at Radio Shack


How to Build the Puck e-Cig Battery Mod - Part 1 - The PUCK eCig Mod

 

[generic mutant]

It tastes better and has more flavor by adjusting to taste. I can tell you when I started using my vv Gripper it was another world from my other ego type batteries. The ergonomics was better along with seeing my delivery device's ohms, how much power I had left and adjustable voltage, in tenths, from 3v - 6v. The hybrid batteries I bought give me enough power for almost 2 days.

I thought, by definition, a VV isn't a mech mod. Though you can add a 'kick' to a mech mod to let you vary the voltage...

I've just yesterday built my first RBA (an Igo-L) at 4 ohms, and it works OK on an Ego battery.

But I've read that to go much lower than that you need a battery with more output, and either a VV or mech mod is needed. Also, a mech mod allows you to use a cheap fuse, rather than frying your battery, if it shorts.

[this all may be wrong, new to the game...]

 

[Clearo-Mizer]

isnt the standard eGo batt only a 3.2 volt fixed?......like a 650 or a 900 mah..i know there are different makers and clones but i am pretty sure the Joytech eGo only puts out 3.2 volts they work until the power in them diminishes to low to deliver the 3.2 then the circuit board in them shuts it down to prevent over drain, that can destroy their ability to recharge fully or even at all if it is drained completely, also the chip in them does not like shorts at all and basically a coil in a devise is a short but resistance 1.5 or higher is tolerated by the chip and managed...a sub 1 coil will destroy an eGo ( from what I have seen and heard)

mech mods put pretty much all their available power to the devise minus what is lost in the switch and contacts witch is minimal with the high end stuff...no chip...making them desirable to folks using RBA's with sub 1 resistance..

I think this is correct you guys are free to correct me if I missed something.

 

[Aheadatime]

There are APV (advanced personal vaporizers, which are advanced ecigs with features like VV or VW), and there are mechanical mods. Mechanical refers to the machinery. It will always work so long as you replace the batteries, because it is an independent mechanical device that doesn't rely on screens, propriety batteries/threading, or any other internal mechanisms. It is simply metal.

Generally speaking, people get mech mods for their durability and because they are unregulated. If you build your own coil, for example, and it clocks out at .8 ohms, most devices refuse to fire that. A mech mod has no inner protection, however, and therefore you can vape low resistance heads and build your own coils etc. If you're just looking for an upgrade, I would suggest an APV rather than a mech. I have been vaping on a Vamo V2 Stainless for about a month and a week now and I love it. It was a great 'first step' upgrade that allows me to see the resistance on the head, switch to VW, and has a better battery life (depending on the batteries you buy) than the 1300 Spinner I started off with.

 

[HK-47]

Explanation: The 'mechanical' mods are exactly that. They are completely mechanical IE no electronics. They rely on contacts directly from the battery to the atomizer and thus have no inherent protections other than what might exist in the battery itself and safety features like 'hot springs' which will melt the spring and break the battery's contact to the device if it gets too hot.

The plus sides are they are usually very heavy-duty. Made typically from anodized aluminum or aircraft aluminum, chrome or other strong metals they're very hard to damage. They are unregulated so you can use very low resistance (ohms) attachments and have them work whereas many 'mods' with circuitry have built in cutoffs that will prevent those attachments from firing. You can custom tune your vaping experience if you have the technical know-how to a fine degree.

The down sides are they are unregulated, so with a fresh battery you should get a strong vape that tapers down slowly as the battery starts losing charge, and becomes very weak at the end. Most mods can regulate the voltage and wattage so that you get a consistent vape until the battery reaches a 'low point' at which time you change out the battery. Without circuitry you have to have a certain amount of expertise with electronics and knowledge to get the most out of a mechanical but these things are not hard to learn. They're not 'plug and play' per-se.

Most of the other mods that have circuitry (APV's or Advanced Personal Vaporizers) allow you to vary the voltage, or in some cases the wattage. They also have short protections and resistance protections which in some cases will cause them not to fire if it doesn't 'line up' properly with the numbers. The good APV's provide a pretty customizable vape and are able to work with *almost* anything, and can often regulate the power levels to provide a more consistent vape until the battery reaches it's 'low point' and you have to change it out.

The plus sides are that many are nearly as durable as a mechanical, being encased in a metal casing of some sort with the circuitry shock-absorbed. I've seen vids of people dropping their ProVaris or VAMO's and still using them well.

Without learning the proper safety and electrical know-how...I'd suggest one of the solid APV's out there over a mechanical at the start over a mechanical. Everyone has their own flavor of things though and that's what makes vaping so interesting and fun. I plan to explore mechanicals sometime in the near future myself as I'm a bit tech-savvy and it doesn't seem to be that hard.

 

[generic mutant]

Incidentally, does it feel a bit sci-fi to anyone else that we're now calling something that's clearly electrical 'mechanical' because it doesn't have an LCD screen on or a chip inside?

The future's bright, yet it crept up on me...

 

[Strangebrew]

Incidentally, does it feel a bit sci-fi to anyone else that we're now calling something that's clearly electrical 'mechanical' because it doesn't have an LCD screen on or a chip inside?

The future's bright, yet it crept up on me...

Yes, an electrical switch is mechanical. When wires are involved folks just pipe "electrical". I been messing with a mechanical switch and talk about a hassle.

 

[generic mutant]

OK, but by that reasoning many a household ceiling light is mechanical.

And we wouldn't use the word there... It's interesting. I'm not arguing the usage - just saying it's interesting.