Does my TC setup stress the battery?
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buying the charger is a good idea anyway.. it is MUCH faster than charging via usb. Not to mention, you may be needing more batteries in the future as you get more shinnies. Vapers bling bling.Thats what i ment. Thanks again. I will buy the charger...
I just read in another forum that where a guy asking the same questions as i did. And the users answered bad pin connection etc. - While you folks here says its fine.
Dont get me wrong here. I am greatfull for the replys but its confussing me
They were probably thinking about V/W mods or TC in W mode. Example.. I have a TC/W mod.. Ijoy 200. I use kanthal wire for my coils, TC does not work with kanthal. SO if my amp rating changes.. I have a loose connection on the coil OR worst case.. dirty or bad 510 pin.. Now since because of the design, it is hard to get any juice in to where the pin is.. unless i super flood it with juice, I can rule that out. Since I have a floating 510pin, (mounted on a spring) it is unlikely the 510 connector failed. So that leaves... a lose coil connector, OR bit of wire in my atty shorting it. (wire is pretty rare.. once in 5 months)Thats what i ment. Thanks again. I will buy the charger...
I just read in another forum that where a guy asking the same questions as i did. And the users answered bad pin connection etc. - While you folks here says its fine.
Dont get me wrong here. I am greatfull for the replys but its confussing me
100% sure fire fool proof way to tell if you are not charging correctly... if your batteries get hot.. STOP and unplug the charger. If the batteries take the charge and don't get hot, it's all good.
One usb port is not like every other usb port. They're all the same size. One might supply power and allow data transfer, another might just supply power. Whatever is supplying the power might be completely different though, and that's what is being discussed.
If a wall wart is rated at 1500mah, that means it can supply up to 1.5A during charging, this is fine unless your charger is trying to draw 2A.
EXACTLY.. UP TO...
But he was talking about the usb charging port on his mod vs a charging dock.
USB ports take and supply only the power they need, otherwise the port you charge your 3v cell phone with on your computer would blow the hell out of you 0.3v mp3 player (you know, the little ones that look like a usb data stick, with an earphone jack). This is also why you can charge your phone on a bus with the usb charger or run your electric razor from the same port that is getting 18volts from the battery. (busses have big batteries)
Point is.. it is a universal device. any port that it fits will work.
Charging Batteries From a USB Port – Battery University
"Can I cause damage by plugging my device into a USB charger that delivers more current than 500mA and 900mA?” The answer is no. The device only draws what it requires and no more. An analogy is plugging in a lamp or a toaster into an AC wall plug. The lamp requires little current while the toaster goes to the maximum. More power from the USB charger will shorten the charge time."
Your device does not "draw" power.. it uses what is there.. It isn't a straw, it can't suck harder to get more. This is why dead batteries don't work.. the device has nothing to run on, and can't suck 3v out of a battery that only has 0.5v left in it.
I don't know this particular mod, but if the onboard charger runs at 2A but the wall wart the usb is plugged into runs at 1A, you have a problem. This was the cause of many of the fires in the early ego days. People were mismatching wall warts and charging cables/chargers.
Never said a charger ran on amps.
Yes I do. So, 1500mah is 1.5Ah. Nowhere did I say 15mA.
Wrong. Direct quote from your link of Battery University.
"USB 2.0 with a current of 500mA has limitations when charging a larger smartphone or tablet battery. "
"In 2008, USB 3.0 relieved the power shortage by upping the current to 900mA."
" Battery Charging Specification in 2007 that enables a faster way to charge off a USB host. This led to the dedicated charger port (DCP)serving as a USB charger, delivering currents of 1500mA and higher by connecting the DCP to an AC outlet or a vehicle."
My droid turbo charger can supply like 12v at 1.2 amps, not something I would hook an old school ego batt up to. Probably safe for newer devices, but the owners manual of my old vision spinners say no more than 500ma so read the manual I guess?
You need to reread the entire article. I'm tired of trying to tell a monkey how to let go of the apple to get his hand out of the jar.
You are talking about power supply adapters, such as on a power drill or printer or speakers. Obviously, the printer needs more power than the speakers, so if you try to use a speaker ac adapter on a printer, yet, it tries to run at 2 amps on wires only rated for 1 amp. That is a totally different animal than a usb cable. Think of it like jump starting a car.. a 24ga booster cable will heat up faster than a 12ga booster cable, because the 12ga cable can carry more current. So if you continue to use the 24ga cable it will heat up and cause problems. Now a USB is not like that. if it were, it would melt the second you plugged your laptop into a 110v ac outlet. Even a 9v battery is enough to melt one of the wires inside a usb cable. (cut an old one open and look at it) And don't think the 110 jack on a usb converter is the same as the 110 end of an extension cord. It isn't.
and once again..
Taken from source:
Quote:
Charging Batteries From a USB Port – Battery University
"Can I cause damage by plugging my device into a USB charger that delivers more current than 500mA and 900mA?” The answer is no. The device only draws what it requires and no more. An analogy is plugging in a lamp or a toaster into an AC wall plug. The lamp requires little current while the toaster goes to the maximum. More power from the USB charger will shorten the charge time." /Unquote
Electronic devices only draw the power (in Amps) that they require - ergo, it is perfectly acceptable to use a 2A-rated power supply to provide power to a charger that takes 0.8A - this is ideal, in fact, because it means that the power supply isn't running at 100% of it's safe limit, and is only running at less than 50%.
I wouldn't use any 12V power supply on any electronics that require 5V - it may be a 'fast' charger which will switch between 5/9/12V at various stages of the charge to fast charge particular devices, but I wouldn't risk it without knowing more.
I wouldn't use any 12V power supply on any electronics that require 5V - it may be a 'fast' charger which will switch between 5/9/12V at various stages of the charge to fast charge particular devices, but I wouldn't risk it without knowing more.
You are wrong - power isn't measured in Volts - it's measured in Watts - potential difference is measured in Volts, and current is measured in Amps.
WTF ever the point is devices do not suck current from a wall outlet, they use what they need from whatever is available. Which is why you cant run a 12v tv from a 6v battery. It just does not work.. Not even for half the normal amount of time. AND this 1.5 VOLT battery sitting on my desk disagrees with you. Since we were talking about available power and I used batteries as an example.
And that is what i was saying for god knows how long. A USB device will only draw the power it needs from a USB port. Which is why they are UNIVERSAL.
Now let go of that stupid apple. lol.
Perhaps I've been unclear, when I say "usb port" I am referring to the port on a dedicated wall adapter, not a usb port on a computer.
Yes and no.
First, USB is NOT universal. There is a USB standardized spec, but there are also USB devices and wall warts which operate outside of the standardized spec.
If the device that is being charged follows the USB 1.0 or 2.0 specs then it will draw a maximum of 500mAh while charging. A USB 3.0 device will be able to draw up to 900mAh while charging. USB 3.1 is capable of 1.5A while charging.
Any device that falls outside of these 3 operating parameters is NOT following the USB standards. This includes USB 2.0 wall warts that supply 1500mAh.
For example, Apple's USB charger supplies 2A. This is outside of any USB spec and can damage devices not designed to handle the extra power output. A USB 2.0 miniport device doesn't have the electronics to step down that power level to what it can actually use. The end result is you get situations like this when using an Apple wall wart with your ecig:
Likewise the Amazon Kindle charger outputs 1.8A, and some car chargers will output as much as 2.1A. These devices all operate outside of USB specifications and may damage older USB 1.0 and USB 2.0 devices.
And that's important to us, because the vast majority of ecig mods use the older USB 2.0 specification, and charging with these higher amp chargers can damage the battery.
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^^ @Completely Average Thanks. I'm sure he'll let go of that apple real soon.
@Mooch can you chime in?
@Mooch can you chime in?
Completely Average - You are wrong!
Current, in Amps, is not 'pushed' by the power supply, it is 'pulled' by the device being powered! In other words, charging something that takes 0.5A with a power supply rated at 1A is a *good* thing as the power supply won't be stressed running at 100% of it's rating, and will run cool and efficiently at 50%.
If a device is faulty and develops a fault, like a short or similar, then it's going to blow up regardless of the power supply that's powering it.
Current, in Amps, is not 'pushed' by the power supply, it is 'pulled' by the device being powered! In other words, charging something that takes 0.5A with a power supply rated at 1A is a *good* thing as the power supply won't be stressed running at 100% of it's rating, and will run cool and efficiently at 50%.
If a device is faulty and develops a fault, like a short or similar, then it's going to blow up regardless of the power supply that's powering it.
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