Does wattage ratings matter when firing on a mech mod?
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When using a mech, wattage matters very much as you can easily stress your battery if you aren't paying attention to your coil build.
1.2 Ohm coils are fine, just make sure you don't let the battery drop below 3.2 volts.
What battery are you using?
1.2 Ohm coils are fine, just make sure you don't let the battery drop below 3.2 volts.
What battery are you using?
Wattage and wattage ratings always matter. Vaping on a mech with a 1.2Ω coil, the wattage will vary between 14.7 watts at 4.2V (full charge), down to 10.2 watts at 3.5V, when you should be thinking about swapping batteries. That's going to make a big difference in the vape as the battery discharges. You can't get any vapor out of it if the power gets too low. Ask me, there's not a lot of sense in vaping a mech if you aren't going to build coils. Fixed value prefab coils greatly limit the already limited (compared to a regulated mod) flexibility of a mech mod. Heat flux is another issue I won't go into here.
Why not? I've seen this said before but no one ever says why. What is it about a tank that makes it inherently unsafe for a faux-hybrid?
possibly because on a hybrid, if the center pin on your atomizer doesnt protrude enough, you can very easily create a dead short and have a battery vent?
Isn't that just as true of a dripper, though, too? What is it about a tank, specifically, that makes it "more dangerous" than a dripper, in that situation!
If you look at the bottom of your tank (any tank), the pin in the bottom is your positive connection to the battery. The threads are the negative. On a regulated mod (and most mech mods) the 510 pin can only connect with the center pin on the tank because they are electrically wired that way. On a hybrid cap, you are not connecting to a pin that connects to the battery, you are directly screwing the tank down onto the top of the battery. It is possible to screw the tank down far enough so that the top of the battery flexes and becomes concave. It doesn't have to flex much. When that happens, and if that center pin doesn't protrude enough, both the 510 pin (positive) AND the threads (negative) can both touch the top of the battery. If this happens, as soon as you press that button you have an instant short and the battery will vent.
Gurus, please correct any errors here.
Gurus, please correct any errors here.
The Problem is Many RTA's/RBA's/RDA's/Clearos/etc have a 510 Pin that Doesn't stick out far enough.
And to make things about 10,000 Times Worse, Many RTA's/Clearos have a 510 Pin which is Not Fixed. But can be pushed Up into the Atomizer Body. Making the 510 Pin Flush with the 510 Threads.
If the 510 Threads make contact with the top of a Battery in a Mech Mod, then when the User Pushes the Switch on the Mech Mod, ALL the Electrons are Free to come pouring out of the Battery. Something that No Battery is meant to have happen.
And that Can/Will cause the Battery to Fail. And when it Fails, it will (depending on it's Chemistry) Vent Gases. And if these Gases have Nowhere to go, the Pressure will build Until Something Breaks. And that something just might be the 510 Threads in the Mod hold the Atomizer.
So Now you Don't have an Atomizer attached to your Mech Mod. You have a Projectile. And that Projectile is Probably Pointed at that Punching Bag thing in the back of your Throat. And the Only Thing stopping the Atomizer from hitting it is your Teeth.
And that is a Bad Day no matter how you Slice it.
the more I get deeper and deeper into the vape world the more I think that a mech mod and dripper must give one [edited] hell of a vape because from all I have read...between the danger aspect,the dripping constantly,and swapping batts all day.I cant possibly imagine going that route.I know people LOVE and SWEAR by them and if thats your thing thats great, vape your brains out,but as for me,I'm filling mechs under "just dont get it"
Mechs have an appeal for numerous reasons.
1. Not much can go wrong with 'em.
2. Easy to fix.
3. No electronics to go belly up.
4. If the FDA regs decimate the industry, mechs will be a long lasting alternative.
You just have to watch what you're doing with mechs, and just be safe and understand battery safety.
1. Not much can go wrong with 'em.
2. Easy to fix.
3. No electronics to go belly up.
4. If the FDA regs decimate the industry, mechs will be a long lasting alternative.
You just have to watch what you're doing with mechs, and just be safe and understand battery safety.
Not on a 1 battery or parallel mech. these mechs will ONLY fire a 1.2ohm coil at between 11 and 16 watts, depending on battery charge state.... Or with a 2x series mod at 44 to 64 watts, in this case the wattage rating might apply.
Ah, no, I mean I know how they work and I understand the issues with the protruding center pin and all. I just don't get why "tanks" are being singled out as being the problem here. Seems to me it's not about whether you're using a tank vs. a dripper, but about the center pin. There are tanks with protruding pins, just like there are RDA's with recessed ones, so why, then, is it always "don't use a tank, don't use a tank, it's not safe bla bla bla" with no mention of the actual issue of the center pin? Shouldn't it really just be "don't use the faux-hybrid in the first place 'cause the damn things have too many safety issues"? Why are we making "tanks" the bad guy here?
Tanks aren't the bad guys.
It's the uneducated using mechs or hybrids without knowledge of inherant safety issues or battery capacities that are the bad guys.
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It's the uneducated using mechs or hybrids without knowledge of inherant safety issues or battery capacities that are the bad guys.
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I have several mechs & hybrids in use, they do, imo offer a superior vape on the right build due to direct current with no buck boost circuitry or pulse width modulation. I only pair Attys with adjustable pins on the hybrid. That said, I doubt I'll ever buy another mech, the advantages of a vw far outweigh the vape, functionality, and often the beauty of a mech. I'd also never buy another mod without stainless threads & spring loaded center pins either
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I have Sony Vtc5s. If it were to drop below 3.2 would it burn out my coil or just not fire?
With a dripper, or rebuildable tank atomizer, the quality ones come with either "Delrin" or "Peak" hard insulators, these can melt down if get to hot, but with a Sub-Ohm Tank like the Subtank or TFV4, the insulators are rubber or silicone which degrade, that and they compress over time, once compressed enough the center pin if flush with the negative threads, this causes a dead short and boom instant rocket, grenade, fireball or all three. That is the danger we talk about is the insulator compression that is the most dangerous, I personally wouldn't even run one of my Kayfun Lite or Kayfun V4 Clones on a faux hybrid mech, though my Russians and Russian 91%'s on the other hand I could because of the adjustable pins on them over the KFL and KF4 clones do not have adjustable pins. Honestly, mods like the 49 and all derivatives of it, example the SMPL, should be boycotted off the market because this flaw has been their biggest Achilles heel, where as a true Hybrid, the atomizer is designed to mate to the top of a mod with a long center pin, example a Hades 26650 mech mod with a Cerberus RDA can be safely full hybrid connected together as they were made to do so by the same mod/atty designer, even Atmomixani which makes the Nemesis has several RDA's for the Nemesis like the Striker and 3D
The problem with tanks are that they generally have floating center pins(not all of them though), not all 510 connections are the same, the combination of the center pin being too big (on the mech) and the tank being over tightened causing the center pin to become equal with the 510 connector will result in a short and a potential venting.
This won't happen with all tanks or mech's but without someone experienced looking at it first it could be a setup for disaster, a prime suspect for this is the aspire atlantis tank, it has been involved in a few known ventings.
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