Drawtube mod...
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Love them. (2)
Pull the spring and put a mm gap in all the joints for a perfect nippled 18350 fit. (dremel a mm from the bottom post and no gaps needed, post appears to be all SS)
18500 size fits good in the hands, but you loose the smooth look/feel.
18650 shows a course of threads or two at the junction of the two tubes.
Center post screw wearing to brass/base metal at top and bottom.
I have not been able to disassemble the switch with the amount of force I am comfortable applying to something I'm not trying to break. It unscrews from the tube body with some needle nose pliers (scratch potential high).
Have fun
I
Pull the spring and put a mm gap in all the joints for a perfect nippled 18350 fit. (dremel a mm from the bottom post and no gaps needed, post appears to be all SS)
18500 size fits good in the hands, but you loose the smooth look/feel.
18650 shows a course of threads or two at the junction of the two tubes.
Center post screw wearing to brass/base metal at top and bottom.
I have not been able to disassemble the switch with the amount of force I am comfortable applying to something I'm not trying to break. It unscrews from the tube body with some needle nose pliers (scratch potential high).
Have fun
I
Nice this is gonna be my second 18350 only mod also I like the top three air vents look different than others... how was the weight? I have k100 and this on the way till I save up a money for the ea mod :beer:
sent from mars
Empty 96 grams
W/18350 116 grams, little over a QP.
For compare: empty chrome bolt is 65 grams
I
W/18350 116 grams, little over a QP.
For compare: empty chrome bolt is 65 grams
I
I just got mine from DV today, I really like it. The one I have holds a button top 18650 without showing any threads, and no gaps needed fit the 18350 button top. I'm pretty sure the screw in this one is stainless, I tried sanding it.
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i got a couple of these from a co-op and the lock ring on switch wont lock the button before screwing off the threads. any idea how the switch comes apart or how i can fix it to make the throw shorter so it will lock the button.
You might try that and then use a dremel or grinder to grind down the length.
Thanks duridog, will have to look at that tonight. just wasnt sure if the button screws in to firing pin or if its pressed in. I have a buddy that got one in same co-op and his works as expected. go figure.. chinese QC lol
Since we are talking about the drawtube, I have a question about it and general mod question. Ive had the drawtube mechanical for a few months. Not a bad mod in my opinion, but i have no others to compare to. It appears to have a SS contacts as mentioned already. I use mostly RBA's on it wrapped with either twisted 32, 28,28, or .5 ribbon wire. I wrap a 325 SS Mesh wick with any of those wires between 1.0 - 2.0+ ohms or so. When firing dry, the coils heat evenly at a pretty quick pace, but not immediate as ive seen some coils light up red when dry right away. Im using an AGA-T+, and maybe the stock air hole is a bit small because Im not getting a ton of vapor with either a low or higher resistance coil. If I hold the switch for a while, and take small puffs I can get a decent cloud, but my ViVi Novas put out more vapor anyday. I always use AW IMR and always make sure to start with fully charged batteries. Since the pins/ spring arent brass could this be the reason that this mod isnt hitting very hard? Or seem to be not pushing certain coils relative to what they should do with low res coils? Ive considered trying to grab a 69 Mod, Chi You or Gus because they seem to be made of better parts, but im not sure if the brass componets or whatever in more expensive devices is the answer?? Does anyone know if replacement pins or spring is available for the drawtube or if it is even necessary. I know their is a option to Kick it, but I wanted to understand the device a bit more before I did. Thanks for all your help
As I understand it there is a drop in voltage with SS, but above 1 ohms on an atty shouldn't be too detectable. But I don't have a rebuildable yet. Do you have access to another mod to test the AGA on? If it hits the same you could try enlarging the AGA air hole first. I have read on the forum that folks have upgraded their DrawTubes to brass contacts. The top screw seems easily replaced, but don't know where to get a brass spring that shape. I suppose the button could be replaced with a ground down brass screw, which seems to be what's on the Natural.
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So I enlarged the hole on the AGA-T to about 1.5mm, and BAM!.....Vaping like a champ! Loving my drawtube again! Thanks durgidog, good tip on going after the air hole size first
YAY!
estrader, The DrawTube is all mechanical and not variable in voltage unless you use a kick. Do you have a link to the web site that you purchased the mod from?
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Sorry Dur, I don't understand.
I would like to take the button to bits to see if it can be converted to magnets. The button assembly is removable from the body with pliers.
I
Sorry for the confusion, I was replying to lithod02 and didn't make that clear. I thought he was asking how to remove the switch from the DrawTube so I quoted your info.
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