Draw Tube-anyone seen this? opinions needed
- Thread starter thecatanddog
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- provari vamo vapor beast
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The draw tube is plated brass for switch contact and positive contact. For mine at least. The negative battery contact is plated stainless.
The problem with the drawtube is that the switch plunger is loose(too thin for the hole) and when pressed doesnt always make a good connection with the mod body. So I get a voltage discrepency of .40v. If I look and make sure I press the switch where it makes good contact with the body then all is well, but who vapes like that? When I have time ill fix it. Its fairly simple to do I imagine.
The difference between the two mods is about .15v when im pressing the switch perfectly on the drawtube. Not much and not a big factor for me.
In my experience, sanding plating from brass makes a small difference in voltage. Also bare brass requires regular cleaning to maintain voltage performance while plating does not. A bit of give and take.
As for the sigelei #13. I sanded down all the contacts up to 2k grit and then mirror polished them. Im getting the same voltage drop as my paps 2.1 on the same battery and atty which is excellent. Best mod ive tried under 50.00. I believe the top and bottom caps are solid brass (plated), but ill sand and polish those at a later date.
3.97v - 1ohm coil - cgr18650
Measured inline not at the atty.
The problem with the drawtube is that the switch plunger is loose(too thin for the hole) and when pressed doesnt always make a good connection with the mod body. So I get a voltage discrepency of .40v. If I look and make sure I press the switch where it makes good contact with the body then all is well, but who vapes like that? When I have time ill fix it. Its fairly simple to do I imagine.
The difference between the two mods is about .15v when im pressing the switch perfectly on the drawtube. Not much and not a big factor for me.
In my experience, sanding plating from brass makes a small difference in voltage. Also bare brass requires regular cleaning to maintain voltage performance while plating does not. A bit of give and take.
As for the sigelei #13. I sanded down all the contacts up to 2k grit and then mirror polished them. Im getting the same voltage drop as my paps 2.1 on the same battery and atty which is excellent. Best mod ive tried under 50.00. I believe the top and bottom caps are solid brass (plated), but ill sand and polish those at a later date.
3.97v - 1ohm coil - cgr18650
Measured inline not at the atty.
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Couldnt sleep so I started working on the draw tube. Im half way through hand polishing.
You can see the sanded brass positive contact.
Before picture (center)
You can see the sanded brass positive contact.
Before picture (center)
Just my, but thinking that you might prefer using your RBAs on your ProVari v.s. a mechanical mod with no safety features at all. Im fairly new to the RBA scene so no expert, but I gather there is a very real concern that sometimes the coils in RBAs can be sensed as a dead-short. I ohm mine out every fill to ensure nothing got wonkey and there's a good circuit, but even still will only use them on my ProVari. If you really like mechanicals, maybe look at getting a Kick with it. It's an adjustable regulated wattage devise that adds short circuit protection for your RBAs. Good luck.
You cannot run a SLR coil on a provari--one thing I CANNOT vape. I want 24+ watts...not a nanny to protect me.
I have several mechanical mods....there's a good reason people will tell you, sometimes you get what you pay for. With that said. My favorite mechanical in my collection is my EA.
I like the GG's too. But just my "personal" preference is the EA.
You probably should take the advice from the other poster and get a kick.
That and run a fuse, eaither a 2 cent or shortstop.
most mechanical 's only lend themselves to kicking 18500 or 18350's
Simply because they're designed for an 18650 when fully extended. The EA includes an 18650 kick tube.
I'm pretty sure the GG can kick an 18650 as well
I like the GG's too. But just my "personal" preference is the EA.
You probably should take the advice from the other poster and get a kick.
That and run a fuse, eaither a 2 cent or shortstop.
most mechanical 's only lend themselves to kicking 18500 or 18350's
Simply because they're designed for an 18650 when fully extended. The EA includes an 18650 kick tube.
I'm pretty sure the GG can kick an 18650 as well
What grit do you recommend for polishing a brushed finish and what grit sizes for mirror finish like your drawtube? I never refinished a mod b4 and need to buy sandpaper to take out the chrome off the sigelei caps. Did you do that by hand? Looks great btw
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk 2
All by hand.
I bought two wet or dry multi packs at an auto store.
Pack one had:
100, 220, 400, and 600 grit
Pack two had:
1000, 1500, and 2000 grit.
For satin with hairline scratches I would start at 400 or 600 and hit 1000, and stop at either 1500 or 2000.
Depending on how smooth the satin finish is you can start at 1000 grit. It is something you will get a feel for fairly quickly. I prefer sanding with running water. Everything comes out smoother that way.
After sanding I finish off with mothers mag polish and a large micro fiber cloth till I get the desired finish.
Two packs of sand paper, mag polish, 10 pack of large micro fiber cloths cost me 20.00 and is enough material to do 5 to 10 mods. The polish can go maybe 30 mods. Less is more.
I bought two wet or dry multi packs at an auto store.
Pack one had:
100, 220, 400, and 600 grit
Pack two had:
1000, 1500, and 2000 grit.
For satin with hairline scratches I would start at 400 or 600 and hit 1000, and stop at either 1500 or 2000.
Depending on how smooth the satin finish is you can start at 1000 grit. It is something you will get a feel for fairly quickly. I prefer sanding with running water. Everything comes out smoother that way.
After sanding I finish off with mothers mag polish and a large micro fiber cloth till I get the desired finish.
Two packs of sand paper, mag polish, 10 pack of large micro fiber cloths cost me 20.00 and is enough material to do 5 to 10 mods. The polish can go maybe 30 mods. Less is more.
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5 hours or so. Its time consuming. Polishing wheels on a drill can cut out 85% of the time and labor. Im cheap though.
The problem with a Kick is it severely limits your power. I have 3 kicks sitting here that I thought I would use in my mechanical mods but found out that when you use a kick you don't get enough power They have a 10 W limit. 10 watts is no where near enough for me and most people who prefer mechanical mods. I like to vape at around .9-1.2 max ohms with my mechanical mods and it works great. A 2cents safety fuse or a shortstop might be a good idea but a Kick is not good. Not if you like to vape at higher watts anyway which is the whole reason I use a mechanical mod over my VV mods with RBA's. A provari is also nt ideal for RBA's for the same reason. I have a Provari and a ZAP and my mechanicals with low ohm gennies blow it away any day.
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Couldnt sleep so I started working on the draw tube. Im half way through hand polishing.
You can see the sanded brass positive contact.
Before picture (center)
Looks really nice all polished up. May have to give this a go myself.
Couldnt sleep so I started working on the draw tube. Im half way through hand polishing.
You can see the sanded brass positive contact.
Before picture (center)
quick question, is the button and bottom cap on your drawtube and segelei interchangable? Diameter and threads (just wondering)
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