Dreadnaught Clone hot fire button and sparking

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Danny_uk5

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Aug 22, 2015
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Hello again!

I'm just about to send my Dreadnaught Clone back to the people who I bought it from because of the above problem on monday...

I tend to get a lot of misfires, sparks and sometimes and rather randomly, firing correctly.

That gives me a few days to get some insight and into why and how this is happening.

The build itself:

I've tried twisted 28 gauge kanthol at 0.3 ohms - I've used a multimeter to check the ohms and it's correct on the money for the build. I am unable to test it differently because of the mods design.

I have built a higher ohms build with a single coil and still the same problem

I believe I've tried a different build with normal 28 gauge kanthol but my memory is fuzzy because I had surgery on my knee yesterday. Don't worry, I'm doing fine if in pain.

I'm using/used a Efest 26650 battery and a MNKE 26650 battery.


Things I've tried:

Brasso ( a brass polish ) on the copper contacts and bottom pressing pin.

Silvero ( a silver polish ) on the firing pin itself AND the spring.

Changed the spring with a known working mech mod spring and still the same problem.

So, where do I go now? Is this a return on monday and get another one or is there something else I need to try?

Thanks for reading this post!

EDIT - I can post photo's of the full item and strip it down if needed!
 

Bunnykiller

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try using the mod without an atty and see if the mod still misbehaives, then attach the atty and see if it goes wonky... process of elimination. check to see if the attys + pin is extended enuf to make contact before the 510 threads do... since you are getting an ohm reading on your build ( you are using a meter correct?) your atty "should" be good to go...
 
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Bunnykiller

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So it's a manufacturering defect that's causing this then.

http://imgur.com/y7yUAay
well the pin looks okay... its got enuf protrusion... how tight are you tightening up everything when you put it together?... the top of the battery is slightly flexible and can allow for the negative part of the atty to contact it...
 

ckquatt

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No it's not a manufacturing defect. Hybrid mods have no center pin for the atty connector to touch. Instead the atty connection touches the positive end of the battery.

You need an atty with a protruding 510 pin or you're going to have an accident.
155fac7af8db9ffa18980b878bd7e2db.jpg



Sent from my Commodore 64 using Tapatalk
 
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Danny_uk5

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Aug 22, 2015
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I think some photo's might clear the situation up a little bit:

http://imgur.com/mezH2fG <--- left bit is the atty and the right is the body

http://imgur.com/wm0O2Np <-- looking down the mod without the atty on

http://imgur.com/fPoPx5H <--- with the atty on but minus drip tip


well the pin looks okay... its got enuf protrusion... how tight are you tightening up everything when you put it together?... the top of the battery is slightly flexible and can allow for the negative part of the atty to contact it...

What I do is, place the battery in and screw down the battery holder for want of a better word like so:

http://imgur.com/PhcxGqf <--- without battery holder on

http://imgur.com/QMFe3jd <--- with battery holder on

The atty then screws directly onto the batter holder itself. Tight enough to hold it in place, lose enough not to squish the battery causing problems. Then I press the button underneath the the mod to fire it and either one OR all the above in my first post happns.

I am unable to connect a differernt RDA onto this because it's an ALL in one type of thing.

I am using a basic multimeter, set to 20 on the dail or the 6 o'clock position.

/sorry for the massive influx of photo's. I felt it was best to show you all.

EDIT: Forgive my spelling mistakes, quite tired and in pain :)

EDIT 2: If you want, I could take the firing pin apart and show you what I have in there as well.
 

Danny_uk5

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Aug 22, 2015
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Return it and don't get a new one. You don't seem to know what you are doing and that is dangerous

And how have you come to that consensus ?

I have built a number of mechmods, ranging from a dual atty hell's gate to the galdiator that I have in front of me. I've had a fair share of problems that I've managed to work through. None of which included sparking, hot fire buttons or none firing.

EDIT: To go one further - I research the living .... out of these things. I came seeking advice because I didn't know where else to turn. So please enlighten me to your reason(s) for saying that.
 

Rabbit Slayer

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And how have you come to that consensus ?

I have built a number of mechmods, ranging from a dual atty hell's gate to the galdiator that I have in front of me. I've had a fair share of problems that I've managed to work through. None of which included sparking, hot fire buttons or none firing.
Because you thought cleaning it would fix a short
 

IMFire3605

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I've got the same Dreadnaught you do. The switch has its "Issues" I will say that, don't use it that often. I've noticed you have to adjust the switch delrin insulator to eliminate the battery rattle, this most times fixes arcing at the top pin and recesses the firing pin. Next upgrade I did was grind some Nemesis switch magnets down and sandwiched the spring that came with it, don't ask me why but it works, the pin/switch travels straight this way, gives enough resistance in the movement and action and assures exact contact when engaged. Make sure the switch pin is fully tight, if you got any wiggle at the upper top, when contact is made this can cause arcing and a hot switch. I still every once in a while run into if I don't engage the switch with my finger fully centered I'll get a misfire, no fire, or hot switch fire due to all the play in the assembly.
 

crxess

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Switch Heat/ Spark

Switch Resistance limit reached.

Either the Atty is Shorting or built to low in resistance.

Atty pin short is a Dead Short and should Super heat instantly.

Heating up and/or possible sparking is from Overload at contact parts in switch.
Poor fitting parts can do both.
Dirty Parts can cause Both.


* I have a 4Nine that the switch occasionally goes ballistic. Quick release. disassemble and clean and it is back to working fine.
 
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Rabbit Slayer

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I think you need to delete your message and pick up google once in a while - Oxidation can cause a short and misfiring. Cleaning helps and keeps electrical circuts fresh. Please don't post here again unless you have something useful to say.
Misfiring yes, but cause sparks to fly, I don't think so
 

Danny_uk5

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Aug 22, 2015
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I've got the same Dreadnaught you do. The switch has its "Issues" I will say that, don't use it that often. I've noticed you have to adjust the switch delrin insulator to eliminate the battery rattle
- This is the first thing I did. I screws the delrin insulator right down in order to fit in the battery. I did have problems with an auto fire to begin with because the pin was too high up.

Next upgrade I did was grind some Nemesis switch magnets down and sandwiched the spring that came with it, don't ask me why but it works, the pin/switch travels straight this way, gives enough resistance in the movement and action and assures exact contact when engaged. Make sure the switch pin is fully tight, if you got any wiggle at the upper top, when contact is made this can cause arcing and a hot switch. I still every once in a while run into if I don't engage the switch with my finger fully centered I'll get a misfire, no fire, or hot switch fire due to all the play in the assembly.
- all comes across as a defect in the making of the item. I am returning it on monday and I'm gonna see if I can get another one... if I have the same problem, I guess it's a refund action and I'll be a little wiser.

Ok people...

Let's teach and learn without the snark please :)
- I'm not normally this edgy when it comes to things. I came out of an operation yesterday and I'm feeling tender. While this is not an excuse, I don't take kindly to people fobbing me off without at least being a touch helpful. If you look back on my posts, I've always stated that I try to be very safe in what I'm doing and research the hell out of what I'm doing. The last thing i want is a battery to go thermal run away and blow a hole in my face or a member of the publics face.

I came here to learn and expand my knownledge and not to be told I don't know anything and I should down tool and be off... That's not on.

I think I'm gonna leave this for today and come back in the morning. I still have till monday before I return said item for another one.

EDIT - I'll post results of a new build tomorrow at 0.6 to find out if I am overloading the switch. Watch this space and thanks to everyone who helped.
 

edyle

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I think you need to delete your message and pick up google once in a while - Oxidation can cause a short and misfiring. Cleaning helps and keeps electrical circuts fresh. Please don't post here again unless you have something useful to say.

Oxidation can cause it not to fire; or cause hot button if the oxidation is on the button;
but oxidation cannot cause a short.
 
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