Dreadnaught Clone hot fire button and sparking

[edyle]

sounds like the issue is with the switch mechanism;

sometimes when my nemesis is giving a problem I take off the switch and check is the screw is loose; if it's loose then I just tighten it and problem solved

 

[Bunnykiller]

just reread some of your posts again.... since you mentioned you replaced the spring, take another look at the spring and see if it is becoming discolored ( heat tinted) that would explain the hot fire button, the spring becomes a new coil in the circuit and can become quite hot and transfer the heat to the button... sometimes the current flows thru the spring only and not the button shaft/button housing....

 

[VHRB2014]

.3 is about at the max for those batteries, add a weak or bad spring and you have a bad situation brewing.

 

[Ryedan]

I tend to get a lot of misfires, sparks and sometimes and rather randomly, firing correctly.

That gives me a few days to get some insight and into why and how this is happening.

When only the switch on a mech mod heats up it is almost always caused by too much resistance between some of the contact surfaces in the switch assembly. This condition can also cause the mod to not fire every time you hit the button.

Where is the spark happening? I've never seen this with an assembled tube mod. That is not normal and I would consider it a significant clue for troubleshooting the issue. Sparking between parts will also eventually make marks on them. The bigger the spark, the faster this happens.

Your 0.3 ohm build is not too low for the mod. From the picture of the atty, the atty's 510 pin is good and not shorting the battery.

I don't have this mod so I have no idea what the switch parts look like. The switch spring should not be the primary current path. The primary circuit is always the outside diameter of the button to the inside diameter of the part that screws onto the mod tube. If those surfaces are not clean you'll have resistance there. The second set of contact surfaces are between the button and the negative end of the battery. That contact surface of the switch is generally on a screw that screws into the switch button and those threads make up another set of contact surfaces. These two parts should be screwed together tight enough so they do not unscrew in use. Then there are the threads between the switch and the mod tube.

When you put the mod together if there is battery rattle when you shake it you have not clamped down properly on the battery. That can mean the switch does not make good contact with the battery and that can also cause the issues you're having.

The last thing I can think of is that the switch button should not bottom out when you press it before it makes contact with the battery. That happened to me with a clone I once bought. I ended up shimming the button screw out a bit to reduce the button stroke and it worked very well after that.

HTH.

 

[Danny_uk5]

Just an update to this thread -

I rebuilt it with an even high ohm's build 0.8 and still the sparks/misfiring and then firing...

I've done everything sugguested in this thread and now I'm returning the said item as even the seller is bemused by it all.

Big thanks to everyone and once I found out what's going on, I'll update this thread.

 

[Visus]

Just posting to say whoa
Uber cool Mech

Good luck 2 cause that is a keeper forever type purdiness lol

 

[pfaber11]

Sounds like playing with fire works, hope you can get it sorted.

 

[crxess]

Did some researching.
Seems you definitely have a Switch issue. Most complaints of Heating/Sparking - yes, several sparking reports - all come back to Switch issues.
Corrections from Spring replacement to sanding to return for replacement.

 

[edyle]

Just an update to this thread -

I rebuilt it with an even high ohm's build 0.8 and still the sparks/misfiring and then firing...

I've done everything sugguested in this thread and now I'm returning the said item as even the seller is bemused by it all.

Big thanks to everyone and once I found out what's going on, I'll update this thread.

Can you explain what it is that you are referring to as "sparking" ? Are you seeing sparks somewhere

 

[Ryedan]

Seems you definitely have a Switch issue. Most complaints of Heating/Sparking - yes, several sparking reports - all come back to Switch issues.

I'm curious about the sparking crxess. Where does it spark?

 

[Bunnykiller]

it sparks where it arcs

 

[crxess]

I'm curious about the sparking crxess. Where does it spark?

Arcing around switch is what I read. Some just heat under high spring resistance. Some actually spark under poor part contact. Doubt anything dramatic. A lighter flint throws unimpressive sparks.
But.........no, a Mod should not(to the naked eye)

 

[Ryedan]

it sparks where it arcs

Why yes, it does

 

[Ryedan]

Arcing around switch is what I read. Some just heat under high spring resistance. Some actually spark under poor part contact. Doubt anything dramatic. A lighter flint throws unimpressive sparks.
But.........no, a Mod should not(to the naked eye)

Thanks crxess. I was still wondering where it could be sparking from that you would see from the outside of the switch so I Googled and found these pics of the switch disassembled. It's not a design I have ever seen before.

The button makes contact with the main switch part with the diameter closest to the bottom of the button, where the person's thumb is touching it. That surface extends to the bottom of the switch, which is why a spark can be seen from outside the mod. Kind of a strange design IMO because even if the mod is working properly I imagine you'll still sometimes get a visible spark there.

I'll stick to my Nemesis

 

[Danny_uk5]

An update about the situation and how I fixed it.

I sent the item back to the people who sold me and they told me that they didn't really have a problem with it and the only reason why is because it wasn't making a solid connection.

When I first got the mod, it was auto firing because the pin was protruding a little too far. Being the person I am, I screwed the firing pin all the way in. The travel time was huge and by anyone standards, it could never make a solid connection.

Adding everything up and thinking about it, this is how i fixed it - There is a sweet spot between autofiring and having little or no travel time. Now the mod fires first time, every time and doesn't have any of the problems. The only foreseeable problem is that this could auto fire in my pocket as the travel time is so low. What i intend to do is travel without a battery inside and that's that fixed.

Needless to say, I am a little red faced but there you go.

 

[crxess]

I do understand what you have discovered for yourself.

Your Biggest problem is TIME/Exposure - Getting used to things that are different and New to you.

I have mods with a dozen different switch configurations.
Some, simply inserting the wrong battery will drastically effect the outcome of operation. Others, switch/pin adjustment is critical.

Mech Mods are Not for beginner/new vapers....................unless they are willing to take the time to fully learn - Preferably before use.

Vape safe!

 

[Danny_uk5]

Bah, it didn't work....

here is a video of the sparking in action:

I now need some advice please - The seller is quite sure this not a problem and is sure that I'm 'using' it wrong. I want to return it for a second time and either get my money back or get a different item.

They want me to return the item in its original box, something I dont have but I do have a replacement box. They said they want to resell the item.... Where do I stand on my rights with this? I paid for the item via paypal via my mastercard. If they won't accept it back with it's box or the box I have offered, how do I stand and what shall I do ?