Dry Burning PT coils---burning smell ok?

[Apec]

So i am trying to take some old coils and bring them back to life. I watched a few youtube vid's on how to dryburn coils. I took them apart, cleaned with water, dried, and then did the slow burn. It took 4-6 burns to get the coil orange, but once it glowed, it had a distinct burning smell. I thought once I did this I went too far, but on the vid's each one the coil glows orange.

So I think for some reason I did something wrong because I am thinking the burning smell destroyed the coil.

I gave it a go with my first one and it turned out great. I am doing another 5-8 and each one I get that burning smell once the coils glow. Is this correct?

Thanks

 

[Jenn Perry]

NEVER EVER USE WATER ON A COIL.....You should clean them with everclear. Water can produce rust on a coil them you will be vaping rust and does a burnt taste and well I don't want that in my lungs.

 

[sc12]

They do stink when you dry burn. Blow off any ash between burns.

 

[InTheShade]

NEVER EVER USE WATER ON A COIL.....You should clean them with everclear. Water can produce rust on a coil them you will be vaping rust and does a burnt taste and well I don't want that in my lungs.

Water can rust Kanthal?

Kanthal is highly resistant to oxidization and under normal use, will not rust. I've been rinsing my coils with water for a year and have never had even the first signs of a rusty coil.

Also everclear contains among other things, water.

 

[ftq94]

Protank heads also have a rubber grommet that can burn

I have dry burned a couple of coils and all of the protanks burned their rubber grommet so I don't do that any more

What I do suggest is build a new coil with 30 or 32 gauge kanthal it should be 2mm but no smaller than 1.7mm and I use organic cotton balls
Have fun

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

 

[Apec]

Protank heads also have a rubber grommet that can burn

I have dry burned a couple of coils and all of the protanks burned their rubber grommet so I don't do that any more

What I do suggest is build a new coil with 30 or 32 gauge kanthal it should be 2mm but no smaller than 1.7mm and I use organic cotton balls
Have fun

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing, but the white rubber piece I took off before I removed the long tubalar metal piece.

I dry burned all of my coils, and except for one that may have just been too far gone, but the 2 i tried worked really well. I dont know if it is b/c I worked on it personally, or its the new 70/30 PG juice I tried, but I am extremely enjoying tonights vape.

Vape on!!

 

[KjAthena]

there is a rubber insulator that keeps the wires of the coil separate on the bottom of the protank coils...it is possible to burn that insinuator if you dry burn excessively...I dry burn regularly and have only burned 2 insulators. I can smell burning everytime I dry burn

 

[Huckleberried]

You're doin it right . Yes, it's possible to burn the insulator in the bottom doing a dry burn, but you'll know by taste if that happens. I rinse mine in water, too.


Sent from the Cliffs of Insanity

 

[k702]

when you dry burn the protank head you should have a small brush (like what you get with an electric razor) to wipe the gunk that burns up away from the coil as you dry burn. and do it in very short bursts. just a second and then after releasing the fire button wait for a second for it to cool a little then blow to blow away some gunk and brush lightly to get some more away. Keep going till it's clean, really slowly. giving time between dry burns for the coil to cool.

 

[Brandon_4078]

They stink bad when you dry burn them and it's normal. I rinse the wick and coil with hot tap water and dry it off before the dry burn to get the e liquid out of the wick. I only pulse for about 2-3 seconds at a time and blow on them during the dry burn. I give them a 5-10 second break while blowing on them a little to cool it off. I have never burnt rubber grommet or have seen any oxidation (rust/iron-oxide or anything else) doing it this way.

 

[Nikkel]

Kanger recently started using silicone grommets instead of rubber. Silicone can withstand higher temps without burning. I recently bought 3 replacement heads and noticed 2 of them had silicone and 1 had rubber. Rubber grommets are opaque white. Silicone is slightly translucent. When you see them side-by-side the difference is unmistakeable.
I guess suppliers still have old ones with rubber in stock. I don't know whether it would do any good to specifically request the new ones.

 

[BigCatDaddy]

Kanger recently started using silicone grommets instead of rubber. Silicone can withstand higher temps without burning. I recently bought 3 replacement heads and noticed 2 of them had silicone and 1 had rubber. Rubber grommets are opaque white. Silicone is slightly translucent. When you see them side-by-side the difference is unmistakeable.
I guess suppliers still have old ones with rubber in stock. I don't know whether it would do any good to specifically request the new ones.

The white ones do suck big time, especially if you are trying to rebuild. They can and do rip apart when you are trying to get them out.

 

[Mark Anthony]

Water can rust Kanthal?

Kanthal is highly resistant to oxidization and under normal use, will not rust. I've been rinsing my coils with water for a year and have never had even the first signs of a rusty coil.

Also everclear contains among other things, water.

This exactly^^^^^

 

[Kryyptyk]

I don't know whether it would do any good to specifically request the new ones.

I know some places sell the silicone grommets by themselves. I've burnt every grommet I've dry burned on, even with the shortest power pulses. I wouldn't recommend dry burning PT heads. If you're dry burning to clean a new coil, just torch it before you install it into the head.
It's much cleaner to just wrap a new coil if your coil is gunked up. I can have a single coil last up to two weeks, I use high VG juice. I just swap cotton wick every other day.

 

[BigCatDaddy]

Protank heads also have a rubber grommet that can burn

I have dry burned a couple of coils and all of the protanks burned their rubber grommet so I don't do that any more

What I do suggest is build a new coil with 30 or 32 gauge kanthal it should be 2mm but no smaller than 1.7mm and I use organic cotton balls
Have fun

Sent from my LG-E980 using Tapatalk

You must be doing something wrong, maybe firing that coil too long. I use short bursts, maybe 20 or more, and have never burnt the grommett. I've started rebuilding now and would hate to waste a good build over a little gunk that can be easily dry burned off. JMHO!!

 

[Kryyptyk]

NEVER EVER USE WATER ON A COIL.....You should clean them with everclear. Water can produce rust on a coil them you will be vaping rust and does a burnt taste and well I don't want that in my lungs.

Kanthal is rust resistant. A trick I use on RBAs to clean coils is dry burn, then quickly run the coil under running water while its still red hot. The coil comes out sparkling clean.
Dry out the RBA, and done.

 

[Nikkel]

One of these days when I get around to ordering some stuff from Fasttech, I'm going to try the wire with no-resistance legs. Supposedly, they prevent hot legs and grommet burning, and give a predictable ohm value to the coil.
$2.39 Pre-made Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (100-Pack) 100-pack - 0.16mm (34 AWG) / 2.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping