These use a regular size stainless carto (longer version or what was typically a mega carto... ) ... All cool features but still works with the regular stainless long carto.
I received mine today. Impressions in a moment.
Regarding the quote, let's be clear: a "long" carto is not what
most of us would likely call a "regular" carto. This tank will
not work with the average, off the shelf, no-funny-business, superlative-free cartomizer.
What
most of us would call a "regular" carto averages 35.5 mm long (not including the 510 thread); this tank's carto body is nearly 45 mm long. Another comparison: the newer Kanger horizontal-coil 510 XL's are 50.5 mm long and
will work in these tanks with just a bit poking out the top.
About the only advantage the included Smok Tech carto seems to have is the flange at the bottom -- which, if the seal on the caps is any good (and it seems to be) is but a marginal advantage. And it is pre-punched with a very clean but VERY SMALL hole.
I vaped it most of the day today as-is and worked OK with 80/20 nicquid. However, I did have to take
lots of "priming" draws to keep the carto wet. Small bubbles can be seen exiting the hole into the tank during use.
I haven't tried a Thicker Nicquid (which would, BTW, be a great name for a band) but I seriously doubt that nicquids much heavier in VG would vape well as-is. That hole in the included carto is
seriously small. After a few hours I went ahead and punched a single, larger hole in the same location; performance
immediately and
dramatically improved.
Taste is average to above average for a cartomizer, vapor and hit good when the nicquid's flowing. My carto actually reads 1.1 ohms. While I prefer a higher load this didn't seem to cause any problems and worked well on a Darwin (dialed down to 7.6W / 3.6V / 3.2A) as well as stock eGo batteries.
The tank: Outside diameter is ever so slightly smaller than a J-Tank, but the Inside diameter is slightly larger -- meaning, the walls of this tube are relatively thin. This shouldn't be an issue unless you're hard on your tanks. The caps are similar to those of the J-Tank but not as dense a material and are chamfered. The bottom cap has a slight recess for the included carto's flange. Fully seated, the tank can still spin but cannot be pushed off the bottom of the carto, providing the biggest real advantage over a standard carto design (sans flange). The caps are
not interchangeable with the J-Tank.
The included drip tip is a nice touch but a very tight fit. Once I had it out I had to basically hammer to get it back in. Maybe that will work out over time.
As-is, the tank and carto performs well, especially after enlarging the hole with a punch. If you like LR cartos you'll probably like this carto/tank combination.
Whether direct replacements for the included carto are worth it will depend mostly on their cost and whether you like the resistances and coil options that will be offered. If they are, say, $1.00 more than standard cartos I'd be hard pressed to pay the difference, given that I'd be punching larger holes in them anyway. But if they're about the same as other cartos and come in a higher-ohm (at least 2.0 or 2.5 ohm) single-coil versions I might spring for them. Otherwise future replacements will probably be the newer Kanger XL's.
Exhalesior!