e Liquid and adhesives

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Dave Rickey

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Aug 30, 2009
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A big part of why my ePipe project is stuck is that unlike most of the high-end mods currently out there, I cannot use all-metal construction, which means my mechanical connections have to be based on glue. In fact, the biggest metal part in my design is the top cap, a metal disk.

The problem is that Propylene Glycol breaks adhesives down, badly. Superglue, hot glue, rubber cement (natural or synthetic), none of it lasts long once the liquid starts dripping into it. The only thing I've found that can stand up to it is two-part epoxy, and only if the surfaces are porous (metal that doesn't have significant corrugations won't hold). And epoxy is a bit of a pain to work with, in addition to the fumes I'm having to balance out the curing time of the epoxy against the amount of bits I need to assemble in one throw and how long I have to wait before moving on to the next. And if I get too much epoxy smeared onto the pipe body, getting it off without ruining the wood finish is a pure ......

Gorilla Glue works great and seems immune to the breakdown, but I can't use it anywhere it will be visible because it foams up and looks ugly. I've tried some exotic (and really too expensive) industrial adhesives (most of which didn't work any better), but the long list of handling warnings and looking up some of the ingredients makes me iffy about selling a product built with them.

Does anyone here have any ideas for adhesives that can bond wood, plastic, and metal, do it reliably and without being too toxic for a home workshop, and stand up to the de-bonding effects of PG? I've *found* a solution, using Gorilla Glue where I can and epoxy where I can't, but it makes assembly a very fiddly multi-stage process.

How much trouble have other had with PG breaking down their mods? Or am I just being too aggressive about testing and stressing my pipes?

--Dave
 

Richie G

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...How much trouble have other had with PG breaking down their mods? Or am I just being too aggressive about testing and stressing my pipes?...

You're not being too aggressive, Dave. Just thorough.

Not to throw your thread askew, but just to back up your findings re: PG breaking down adhesives. I found this to be the case months ago with the adhesive-backed JS switch. E-liquid and the JS switch do not get along. It's the root of the JS problems, IMHO.

I'm not an advocate of glue in most any shape. It always struck me as a Rupe Goldberg method of mechanical attachment. When backed into a corner I've had some success with liquid nails. Like the epoxy you mentioned, care has to be taken from it getting messy though.

LIQUID NAILS® Adhesive | Construction Adhesive | LIQUID NAILS Brand

There's an MSDS available on the site.
 

Scottes

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From another site:
For the JB Weld - which one is it? Some are nearly impossible to remove once cured...others are impossible. Remember JB is designed to be fuel and solvent safe for use in engine compartments and what not. Even brake fluid doesn't do much to it (and that is one of the most aggressive solvents you will find). According to their website:

Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?
A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold.

Now everything has an Achilles heel...but I haven't found it for JB Weld (the gray one).
Seems like a winner, except that it's a 2-part liquid that Dave wants to avoid.


I still think the epoxy stick is the answer to Dave's problems. Slicing with a razor is easy and - with a little practice/testing - allows portioning without waste, allows prepping for the job with pre-slicing, and supply on demand since it can be mixed with finger-tips just when it's needed. Since it's an epoxy it's impervious to solvents once cured.

Devcon makes one with a 30- to 40-minute cure time. Permatex makes a couple with 4- or 5-minute hold times and 30-minute cures.
 
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