Efficiency. Thinner wire and higher resistance VS thick wire and lower resistance

[Uncletattoowhat]

Uncle, i am using the metal precision screwdrivers, the 2.78mm is a little bit of a lie, it's more 2.5mm but using 7/64th on Steam calc gets me closer to my final ohms of 0.15 that the coils read on the meter, i also dont adjust the leg length on the calc, the leg length on the phenotype-l may compensate for this as you need a tiny bit extra to reach the outer edge of this atty

I was going to say, I've been looking for a 2.7-2.8mm screwdriver for a while at a good price because I feel my 2.5mm coils get too hot and dry the wick too quick, but my 3mm coils dont get quite hot enough and keep a fully saturated wick. I primarily use the Kuro Koiler and have become so accustomed to it. I don't prefer using drill bits.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

For normal coils its a real nice vape, im puffing 5mg on this and doesnt feel hot imo but on a fresh battery any more than 1.5s hits give a strong kick in the throat, as the battery power drops towards 4v i can go to 2sec hits.
I'm in that group of people that can reach out and grab a fresh set of batteries as and when i need them, i dont need to have a good power consumption so i swap cells at 3.9v at latest.


The only exotic coil's that ive vaped that produce the same level of flavour from 4.2-3.6v are the Alien coils, these coils are a bit scary for me as ive vaped to 3.6v to many times to count without realising, i say its scary becouse these coils normally end up around 0.08ohms for a dual which can stress your batteries alot at 3.6v, coming from a person that likes to swap at 4v to look after batteries its a big fail



Yeah i hear ya on the 2.5-3mm id, the only other thing is to go 3mm and up your power or continue with the 2.5id as i do and drip more often, we're always making a compromise somewhere

 

[super_X_drifter]

After a few days of Vaping higher resistance setups on mechs I have reverted back to my previous 26ga dual or parallel (depending on atomizer) builds in the 0.43 ohm range. I realized that the vape was good but the amount of vapor just was not on par when I tried to run a mech at similar watts to a regulated mod.

Since I am still in the learning process of regulate mods (DNA 40) I can only speculate that it is because the regulated mod steps up (or down) the voltage to produce the desired watts for resistance of the atomizer whereas on a my 18650 mechs 4.2 volts is the most power that will ever be supplied (factoring no VD). So yeah, I need around 40 watts on a mech to give me the equivalent vapor production on a regulated mod around 26-29 watts. Doh.

 

[Pushbutton]

After a few days of Vaping higher resistance setups on mechs I have reverted back to my previous 26ga dual or parallel (depending on atomizer) builds in the 0.43 ohm range. I realized that the vape was good but the amount of vapor just was not on par when I tried to run a mech at similar watts to a regulated mod.

Since I am still in the learning process of regulate mods (DNA 40) I can only speculate that it is because the regulated mod steps up (or down) the voltage to produce the desired watts for resistance of the atomizer whereas on a my 18650 mechs 4.2 volts is the most power that will ever be supplied (factoring no VD). So yeah, I need around 40 watts on a mech to give me the equivalent vapor production on a regulated mod around 26-29 watts. Doh.

What you are seeing is an error in the calculations you are doing for your mechanical mods. You are never going to get 4.2V from a battery under load in a mech. Most likely it is in the range of 3.9-3.4 volts for a full to half charged battery. Possibly even less, depending on the battery.

 

[super_X_drifter]

What you are seeing is an error in the calculations you are doing for your mechanical mods. You are never going to get 4.2V from a battery under load in a mech. Most likely it is in the range of 3.9-3.4 volts for a full to half charged battery. Possibly even less, depending on the battery.

10-4. Like I said, accounting for no VD.

 

[Rossum]

Try titanium wire. It has about 60% the specific heat of Kanthal per unit volume, meaning it will heat up considerably faster, even disregarding the fact that a DNA40 will throw the full 40 watts at it until it gets warmed up, but won't over-heat it.

Like I said in another thread, you're a year late to the party, Russ.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Try titanium wire. It has about 60% the specific heat of Kanthal per unit volume, meaning it will heat up considerably faster, even disregarding the fact that a DNA40 will throw the full 40 watts at it until it gets warmed up, but won't over-heat it.

Like I said in another thread, you're a year late to the party, Russ.

I used to make it a habit to intentionally arrive late to parties so most of the women were usually already hammered

 

[WharfRat1976]

For normal coils its a real nice vape, im puffing 5mg on this and doesnt feel hot imo but on a fresh battery any more than 1.5s hits give a strong kick in the throat, as the battery power drops towards 4v i can go to 2sec hits.
I'm in that group of people that can reach out and grab a fresh set of batteries as and when i need them, i dont need to have a good power consumption so i swap cells at 3.9v at latest.


The only exotic coil's that ive vaped that produce the same level of flavour from 4.2-3.6v are the Alien coils, these coils are a bit scary for me as ive vaped to 3.6v to many times to count without realising, i say its scary becouse these coils normally end up around 0.08ohms for a dual which can stress your batteries alot at 3.6v, coming from a person that likes to swap at 4v to look after batteries its a big fail



Yeah i hear ya on the 2.5-3mm id, the only other thing is to go 3mm and up your power or continue with the 2.5id as i do and drip more often, we're always making a compromise somewhere

Swap out at 3.9? That's like 9 puffs off a clapton.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Swap out at 3.9? That's like 9 puffs off a clapton.

9puffs!.... you now got me thinking how many pulls im actually taking i do know its a hell of a lot more than 9, i find it hard keeping track of puffs but im gonna defo look into this, are you using single cells? i'm currently vaping on either a dual parallel 18650 or a triple parallel 18650 with 1 to 1.5 sec pulls but not on claptons or anything fancy what so ever.

0.15 Ohms build with FT vtc5's, wether they be true authentic or not they seem really good if not better than any other battery i have but i guess the only way to truely know is to get scientific


Have you checked your cells voltage with a MMeter before using? i wouldnt go with what the charger is telling you, i have a XTAR VP1 and i put them on charge at 1a untill it sais 4.2v then i'll check the voltage at 0.25a 0r 0.50a and leave them on charge till those settings say 4.2v charge.

i'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this

 

[Rossum]

Have you checked your cells voltage with a MMeter before using? i wouldnt go with what the charger is telling you, i have a XTAR VP1 and i put them on charge at 1a untill it sais 4.2v then i'll check the voltage at 0.25a 0r 0.50a and leave them on charge till those settings say 4.2v charge.

A battery isn't done charging when it shows 4.2V.. What any decent charger (including your VP1) does when a battery reaches 4.2V is to hold it at that voltage while monitoring the current the battery is accepting. The charger will only stop charging when that current drops below a certain threshold, usually between 50 and 100 mA. Only then is your battery fully charged.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

A battery isn't done charging when it shows 4.2V.. What any decent charger (including your VP1) does when a battery reaches 4.2V is to hold it at that voltage while monitoring the current the battery is accepting. The charger will only stop charging when that current drops below a certain threshold, usually between 50 and 100 mA. Only then is your battery fully charged.

So what is actually happening when at 1a it says 4.2v and then i flick the switch to 0.25a and it shows say 4.18 or 4.19v and i leave them on this setting till they reach 4.2v, am i fully charging every miniscule thats left or am i wasting the effort?
i notice on some older cells, mainly my 26650's this happens even more so.
Maybe i should break out he Mmeter.

 

[Rossum]

What's happening there is that your charger has started tapering off the current because the battery has reached 4.2V, but the current hasn't dropped below the lower current limit you're setting it to. Try all three current settings with a partially charged battery at some point; you'll see the voltage is higher at higher current settings. That's because the battery has some internal resistance. You apply more current across a given resistance and you'll get a higher voltage across it.

Honestly, you're over-thinking this. Your VP1 tells you when your battery is fully charged when the bars in the battery icon below the voltage stop blinking. Just let it do its thing until it indicates your battery is fully charged, which won't happen until sometime after it reaches 4.2V. How long after depends on the battery itself and what current setting you used. A higher current setting will get you to 4.2V more quickly, but it will then take longer to do the "float" portion of the charge.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Oh.. wow! Thankyou good sir, i did not even realise i had to wait for them to stop blinking, i thought that once at 4.2v job was a goodun, hence why i was still getting them to charge more at less than the 1a settings, i waited on a set to stop blinking then tried the other amp settings as i do and they showed full anyway... dam i feel stupid haaha.
i'm glad we spoke


Just a little update here for Wharf, im at 52 1-1.5sec puffs and im at 4.07v(samsung 25r's with the 0.15ohm), And i quit Wharf! i cant continue to tag every puff anymore but i will tell you that this has taken me about 2.5-3hrs, plenty of vape time for me and still .8v till i hit the 3.9v, that lots to me
i think i have that right with the .8 hmm im getting confused now cus we've moved a dec point lol

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

2.5mm 28GA parallel @ 0.72 ohms that in my case (4-5 second hits, often chaining) produces the same vapor as a 2.5mm 26GA parallel at 0.43 ohms in this atomizer.

Why? Wire fully heated in a second or two. The 26GA - not so much.

View attachment 498884

Edited to note that I do cut the air down a lil too - 2 holes open each side rather than 3.

Which atty is that? from here it looks like the juice-well is concaved.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Which atty is that? from here it looks like the juice-well is concaved.

It's a 22mm Atty called the stumpy. It's made by element mods and Catfish Atty Mods makes it BottomFed. It's currently sold out though.

 

[mcclintock]

2.5mm 28GA parallel @ 0.72 ohms that in my case (4-5 second hits, often chaining) produces the same vapor as a 2.5mm 26GA parallel at 0.43 ohms in this atomizer.

Why? Wire fully heated in a second or two. The 26GA - not so much.

Running those coils through Steam, the 28 ga. is slightly hotter at the same power due to less surface area. A better comparison would be to reduce the 26 ga. by one wrap to about .35 ohms.

The problem with comparisons is making it "all else equal". That's the reason why people come up with statements like 22 ga. heats up faster than 28, etc. ... 28 does theoretically heat up a little faster than 26, but if you're getting a huge difference there's probably something else involved too.

I was running 32 ga. twisted at 2.4 ohms with 22 watts at one point -- highest power I've ever enjoyed and talk about instant-on! That's about 7 volts too. I went away from it because that one was a bit too much, also 32 ga. doesn't last long and it doesn't play well with my posts.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

It's a 22mm Atty called the stumpy. It's made by element mods and Catfish Atty Mods makes it BottomFed. It's currently sold out though.

ahh i see, it looked to me in the pic that it had a concaved well' i was gonna say i had'nt seen that before and that i bet the flavour would be good in an atty like that.
Come to think of it there is an atty with a concave well-> https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10011620/2006707-shield-style-rda-rebuildable-dripping-atomizer

not that i'd buy it it looks a heap of junk

 

[aheatedatom]

I hadn't used 28ga wire in over a year, and at the time that was to fit dual coils into a Russian 91%.

Interesting idea though, so I wrapped a 1.3 ohm dual coil with 28 guage- (been exclusively using 26ga until now.)

Not a scientific test, but I do feel like the performance of the dual 28ga 1.3 ohm at 30 watts is close to the dual 26ga .5ohm I usually like at 40 watts. It also seems to dry out faster though, and a different taste with the thinner wire.

 

[WharfRat1976]

9puffs!.... you now got me thinking how many pulls im actually taking i do know its a hell of a lot more than 9, i find it hard keeping track of puffs but im gonna defo look into this, are you using single cells? i'm currently vaping on either a dual parallel 18650 or a triple parallel 18650 with 1 to 1.5 sec pulls but not on claptons or anything fancy what so ever.

0.15 Ohms build with FT vtc5's, wether they be true authentic or not they seem really good if not better than any other battery i have but i guess the only way to truely know is to get scientific


Have you checked your cells voltage with a MMeter before using? i wouldnt go with what the charger is telling you, i have a XTAR VP1 and i put them on charge at 1a untill it sais 4.2v then i'll check the voltage at 0.25a 0r 0.50a and leave them on charge till those settings say 4.2v charge.

i'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this

Yea Slip, I mostly vape in the .3 to .5 range. Singles and duals and fatter wire. My batts come off my LUCS2 at 4.2. My KLEIN multi reader sees them as 4.0v. I'm mostly in single 18650 mode on my REOS and TMods. My only dual is a SIG 150. I TRY to sub out at 3.5 to 3.6 but ALWAYS go down to 3.2 or lower. It just happens. So I have no clue either how many puffs or mls go down in relation to my batts. I would say I can vape around 3mls of juice, maybe a little more and the battery is at 3.6 or less. I'm using blue, yellow and now recently brown batts.