To fit on an eGo battery.
Just pictures for now - if anyone is interested I will give the rundown.
Parts list:
Old 510 battery for the "removal tool"
Various old eGo battery connectors, shell & other parts for cap and battery connection
Old 510 battery connector for ceramic cup holder.
eGo C shell for "push-in" sleeve for air tube.
Parker "roller ball" refill front section for tapered air tube
Silicone o-rings to fit
Silicone gasket in air tube to seal around blue air tube in cap.
Ceramic cup from and old eGo cartomizer.
Syringe needles and pins (like usual....)
I also drilled a small hole in the tapered air tube for air intake into the liquid chamber. It seals so good that a vacuum is created once the liquid is drawn through the cotton (or silica) wicks and tends to run dry if it can't breathe. To my amazement the liquid does not run into the air tube since there is always a pressure difference between the liquid chamber and ambient pressure.
The reason for the small blue tube is two-fold: Liquid cannot run into your mouth (if it collects in the air tube due to condensation) and also to have a nice warm draw with the air intake close to the heating coil. You can adjust the distance to your liking and own preference. The top silicone seal plays an important role in sealing this air tube from the liquid and is indispensible in the design.
The wick running through the two holes on the side of the air tube can be silica rope, cotton, rabbit hair or whatever you like - it only needs to rest on top of your heating coil and primary wick. By adjusting how deep you push the air tube into the coil assembly unit you can control the amount of liquid being wicked to the coil. The small (and it needs to be very small) breather hole mentioned earlier takes care of the rest.
About the battery connector: It uses the larger thread on the battery to screw on. I had to solder (lead free off course) an inverted 510 cart battery connector on top and inserted the ceramic cup into it. You will notice the two small nothes I cut out for the "removal tool" to grab hold of it when inserting or removing. There is another silicone o-ring between this part and the batter connector top to ensure a leak free setup. This unit is 100% leak proof.
Hope you enjoy!
Off course it works nicely too....
Slightly different setup for bottom part will allow an easy line setup as well. (Busy playing with it....)
Just pictures for now - if anyone is interested I will give the rundown.
Parts list:
Old 510 battery for the "removal tool"
Various old eGo battery connectors, shell & other parts for cap and battery connection
Old 510 battery connector for ceramic cup holder.
eGo C shell for "push-in" sleeve for air tube.
Parker "roller ball" refill front section for tapered air tube
Silicone o-rings to fit
Silicone gasket in air tube to seal around blue air tube in cap.
Ceramic cup from and old eGo cartomizer.
Syringe needles and pins (like usual....)
I also drilled a small hole in the tapered air tube for air intake into the liquid chamber. It seals so good that a vacuum is created once the liquid is drawn through the cotton (or silica) wicks and tends to run dry if it can't breathe. To my amazement the liquid does not run into the air tube since there is always a pressure difference between the liquid chamber and ambient pressure.
The reason for the small blue tube is two-fold: Liquid cannot run into your mouth (if it collects in the air tube due to condensation) and also to have a nice warm draw with the air intake close to the heating coil. You can adjust the distance to your liking and own preference. The top silicone seal plays an important role in sealing this air tube from the liquid and is indispensible in the design.
The wick running through the two holes on the side of the air tube can be silica rope, cotton, rabbit hair or whatever you like - it only needs to rest on top of your heating coil and primary wick. By adjusting how deep you push the air tube into the coil assembly unit you can control the amount of liquid being wicked to the coil. The small (and it needs to be very small) breather hole mentioned earlier takes care of the rest.
About the battery connector: It uses the larger thread on the battery to screw on. I had to solder (lead free off course) an inverted 510 cart battery connector on top and inserted the ceramic cup into it. You will notice the two small nothes I cut out for the "removal tool" to grab hold of it when inserting or removing. There is another silicone o-ring between this part and the batter connector top to ensure a leak free setup. This unit is 100% leak proof.
Hope you enjoy!
Off course it works nicely too....
Slightly different setup for bottom part will allow an easy line setup as well. (Busy playing with it....)
