eGo ONE tank series – CLR coil

[Katya]

I use the eleaf ECR rebuildable coil head, which is the same principle as the CLR coil in that the coil legs have to be trapped and isolated by that rubber grommet at positive pin. If the coil legs are too long and the wire too thin you can get a hot leg which will burn the grommet, unless you use NR-R-NR wire coils.

I have this problem with rebuilding protank coils since you have to use a very thin gauge wire and the legs are long. That's one reason why I stocked up on NR-R-NR premade coils from FT.

But I don't get a hot leg with the ECR coil head using 28g wire.

You know, some factory coil heads I've taken apart have the really tiny tubes (silicone?), sleeves around the coil legs. I wonder if plasti-dipping coil legs would work and be safe).

I believe that NR-R-NR wire is critical when rebuilding those older, smaller coils that use very high resistance wire that heat up very quickly and may damage the insulators. Remember burning cartomizers? Thin (32 or 33g) wires, coils wrapped in polyfill, not enough airflow and poor wicking... Newer, much improved coils that use lower resistance wire (28g or so), don't need NR-R-R, IMHO.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I believe that NR-R-NR wire is critical when rebuilding those older, smaller coils that use very high resistance wire that heat up very quickly and may damage the insulators. Remember burning cartomizers? Thin (32 or 33g) wires, coils wrapped in polyfill, not enough airflow and poor wicking... Newer, much improved coils that use lower resistance wire (28g or so), don't need NR-R-R, IMHO.

Yup, that's what the protank coils need to be built with, 32-33 AWG with long legs. Hot legs are pretty much guaranteed in my experience.

 

[Katya]

Yup, that's what the protank coils need to be built with, 32-33 AWG with long legs. Hot legs are pretty much guaranteed in my experience.

IIRC, I managed to rebuild my ProTank coils with 29g Kanthal in the past, but it was a very long time ago. I figure that, in principle, if one is willing and capable of rebuilding, getting a proper RTA is a better way. But that's just me. Others love to rebuild disposable coils.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

IIRC, I managed to rebuild my ProTank coils with 29g Kanthal in the past, but it was a very long time ago. I figure that, in principle, if one is willing and capable of rebuilding, getting a proper RTA is a better way. But that's just me. Others love to rebuild disposable coils.

You might be right, I never had 29g but I always felt 30 was too big. I don't love doing it, in fact I haaaaate it now that i don't actually have to do it. But without getting into a long explanation, it's a backup plan to a back up plan now. I also use the the NR-R-NR coils I bought in a small RBA that I have so even if I never end up having to rebuild protank coils again, they won't be a waste. They were cheap anyhow. $20 got be a ton of them.

 

[Katya]

I never had 29g but I always felt 30 was too big

Too big?

Anyway, I never worked with 30g because it was too thin and impossible to work with, but I used to love the 29g for those older atties. It heats a bit faster than the 28g so no lag. I switched to 28g now and that's all I'm using for my MTL RTAs. The atties are better, the mods fire faster.

And all this progress is going to came to a grinding halt in a couple of months... What a shame.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Too big?

Yeah, because a 1.5-1.8 ohm 2mm ID spaced coil requires 2 more wraps with 30g over 32g wire. 2 more spaced wraps requires quite a bit more space when you consider the well is only 5.5mm wide (remember, I'm talking protank heads here, not CLR heads, sorry to get OT). That 2 less wraps was always easier for me to work with in that small space to avoid shorting.

 

[npil]

I use the eleaf ECR rebuildable coil head, which is the same principle as the CLR coil in that the coil legs have to be trapped and isolated by that rubber grommet at positive pin. If the coil legs are too long and the wire too thin you can get a hot leg which will burn the grommet, unless you use NR-R-NR wire coils.

I have this problem with rebuilding protank coils since you have to use a very thin gauge wire and the legs are long. That's one reason why I stocked up on NR-R-NR premade coils from FT.

But I don't get a hot leg with the ECR coil head using 28g wire.

You know, some factory coil heads I've taken apart have the really tiny tubes (silicone?), sleeves around the coil legs. I wonder if plasti-dipping coil legs would work and be safe).

ecr for which atomiser is compatible ?

 

[Lanciab]

Eleaf Mélo 2-3 (not 4) and all this style tanks that do not require threading on the top of the coil (ecr has no threads on top so does not work with Mélo 4, melo Ice, etc)
I think it may work with Melo 5 but not sure.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

ecr for which atomiser is compatible ?

Melo 2 & 3
Ijust 2
Ijust S
Possibly Melo 5 but not 100% sure.

 

[YoursTruli]

Have recently gone through my stash, to see which things I might want to put on the Classies sometime (assuming it'll still be here on ECF for awhile yet). Found that I have WAY more eGo ONE 1.8mL tanks than I thought I had. Debating putting them on there not too long from now, but don't know if people are even still looking for any or not. Lots of other MTL tanks that people really love, have come out since the eGo ONEs.

They still have a following.

I imagine they still have a following BUT... I love the whole ego one series with 20++ new in package ego one, ego one mega & mega v2 tanks, tron s & tron t tanks, pico & pico s tanks, wismic venti & armor tanks that all use ego one cl/clr heads in my stash, BUT if you can no longer buy coils for them ...... Given my response from Joyetech I have to believe they are no longer making cl/clr heads so it makes my big stash obsolete really.

 

[Katya]

Given my response from Joyetech I have to believe they are no longer making cl/clr heads so it makes my big stash obsolete really.

That's why I'm saving mine for possible future emergencies. At this point, I probably have more eGo One tanks than new coils.

I don't understand why they never became more popular.

 

[FranC]

You can rewick the coils near forever and when you can’t they are easy to recoil. A small coil stash can last a very long time.

 

[YoursTruli]

Provided you have a coil stash...

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

pico & pico s tanks

I see mention of this Pico tank here and there over the last year or so but I have never seen one nor can I ever find one in a google search. All I get are Pico and Pico S mods that come with Melo 3 and Ello tanks (respectively). As far as I know, there would be no way for the CLR to fit in the Ello line of tanks. Melo 3, not sure.

Would love to have a link or a pic of these Pico tanks.

 

[YoursTruli]

 

[YoursTruli]

 

[YoursTruli]

My stealthy set up lol!

 

[YoursTruli]

You have to remove the top of the CLR coil and a top piece from the pico tank screws on to the top of the CLR coil. Ou! Forgot to add also using the top black oring from the CLR coil.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

View attachment 930583

THANK YOU! Also, I can't believe I found another Vamo Box user!
I wish I could find a few more of those but last year I search the world over, literally lol, and there are none to be found.

 

[YoursTruli]

THANK YOU! Also, I can't believe I found another Vamo Box user!
I wish I could find a few more of those but last year I search the world over, literally lol, and there are none to be found.

Still going strong! I love that little box mod and use it daily with that pico tank since I bought them. The only other mini box mod I am still tempted to get has an internal battery so I still hesitate... although I still have istick minis in my stash that work perfectly. (I check every once in a while)