Haha we might should start a separate thread for "Worst Drop In Coil Awards" so people will be warned![]()
VL (Or anyone) have you tried the Cubis BF RBA built horizontal like the CLR? Just ordered one of the coils from FT. Don't know why I even ordered it. Impulse buy.I disagree, the award for worst coil performance has to be with the cubis!
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David-- I can't speak to your flavor question but I'll add. RE: silicone burn, None to date- not even a small brown spot - using 30ga 1.2 to 2.0 ohm coils. RE: leaking -- I think one needs to be sure the wick overfills the cut out slots. coil of 2.5 or larger I.D. and stuffed with rayon to the max. For insurance, sometimes I have a very small piece of cotton in the bottom of the airflow base to sponge any fluid that may get there. But this has become unnecessary as I learn. RE: airflow- you should have little problems shutting that down. I came from the P.Tank. Buy the tank and a coil pack for $20 you can not lose.
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VL (Or anyone) have you tried the Cubis BF RBA built horizontal like the CLR? Just ordered one of the coils from FT. Don't know why I even ordered it. Impulse buy.
Do you have a link to buy the tank and coil pack?
I have the authentic pico and clone pico-s and neither leak. The important things I think are the o-rings on the clr adapter top bit. The clone didn't have o-ring #1 when I got it so I added my own. It seals the clr coil (where the top bit has been removed). I also had to replace O-ring #2 as the one that came with the clone didn't stay in place. (The ones I used were 6mm inner diameter & 1.5mm thick - so 7.5 mm OD).Same experience with my Leako-S. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I can tell, there's only 2 places the liquid can get into the base. From around the edge of the CLR itself, or around the edge of the base plate (for lack of the correct part name), that the CLR screws into. There's an o-ring beneath that base plate, that appears to be 1 mm thick. I wonder if a 1.5 mm might work better. When I tighten down that base plate, with the stock o-ring, it feels the same as when there is no o-ring in there. I would expect a little resistance on the last half thread or so, as the o-ring was compressed. I'm totally just guessing here.
I might epoxy that thing in there, to see if that fixes the leak. If not, it must be getting in the base from around the CLR itself.
I tried the rebuildable deck as well, but had nothing but trouble with that as well.
Not impressed with the Leako-S
Did it work any better than the usual Cubis flooding and spitting routine?Yes, I've tried it. IMO, It's definitely not as easy as the CLR
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I haven't even attempted to use the build deck, I got the picos for the clr's as they are so easy to use (& ego tanks are really hard to get in the UK). I do have a TW oddy tank which is good (as long as you screw the coil in really tight) but I love the pico and it's all I use now for the clr's.That's has got to be the toughest deck to build on! I was trying to build it today to see if that helped the leaking, but was unsuccessful
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Do you have a link to buy the tank and coil pack?
Did it work any better than the usual Cubis flooding and spitting routine?
One more thing re: pico-s - make sure the top is screwed on the right way - with the completely smooth side upward. I put it on upside down once by mistake and it did leak then. My authentic has a patterned top which makes it obvious which is the right way but the standard top is plain & quite easy to put on upside down by mistake.I have the authentic pico and clone pico-s and neither leak. The important things I think are the o-rings on the clr adapter top bit. The clone didn't have o-ring #1 when I got it so I added my own. It seals the clr coil (where the top bit has been removed). I also had to replace O-ring #2 as the one that came with the clone didn't stay in place. (The ones I used were 6mm inner diameter & 1.5mm thick - so 7.5 mm OD).
View attachment 649727
Arrrrrrrrrrrr! Not what I wanted to hearNo. No improvement
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@Skold Very much MTL. They work great for me. I build with 29, or 30g Kanthal with a 2.5mm mandrel. That 2.5mm mandrel fits perfectly in the wick slots to hold the coil in place while you tie the coil down.![]()
Arrrrrrrrrrrr! Not what I wanted to hear![]()