Eleaf GS Air Fan

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Cheechako

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I finaly found a replacement for the wicking material between the tank and the wicks of the coil so
I have been rebuilding my original coils that came with my three tanks with rayon wicks, single coil
with 29 gauge kanthal at 1.4 to 1.5 ohms and it is a slice of fried gold!
Yeah I know, coils are cheap but the flavor and vapor production are phenominal rebuilt.
I think I can safely retire my Mini Protank II's.
 

LostVapeMonster

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I finaly found a replacement for the wicking material between the tank and the wicks of the coil so
I have been rebuilding my original coils that came with my three tanks with rayon wicks, single coil
with 29 gauge kanthal at 1.4 to 1.5 ohms and it is a slice of fried gold!
Yeah I know, coils are cheap but the flavor and vapor production are phenominal rebuilt.
I think I can safely retire my Mini Protank II's.
I don't understand a word of what you just said, but COOL! :2cool:
 

rhammer186

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I finaly found a replacement for the wicking material between the tank and the wicks of the coil so
I have been rebuilding my original coils that came with my three tanks with rayon wicks, single coil
with 29 gauge kanthal at 1.4 to 1.5 ohms and it is a slice of fried gold!
Yeah I know, coils are cheap but the flavor and vapor production are phenominal rebuilt.
I think I can safely retire my Mini Protank II's.

what is the replacement material you are using? how thick of a wick do you use with the rayon. I have a tendency to overdo it :(
 

Cheechako

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1/4 of the rayon rope out of the box and stretched out until it "squeaks" as it's pulled through, hope that makes sense.
The replacement material I stumbled on at work, its like a cloth that is very absorbant, could not get the coils to stop
flooding until I put this material in.
I use one of the famous "Blue Screwdrivers" that came with one of my RTA's to wrap my coils for it as it fits in the
slot of these heads very nicely. I have a Russian 91, Fogger V3 and a RDA and this tank beats them all!
I was a fan with the stock coils and rebuilding them just ups the awesomeness of these bad boys.
 

LostVapeMonster

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1/4 of the rayon rope out of the box and stretched out until it "squeaks" as it's pulled through, hope that makes sense.
The replacement material I stumbled on at work, its like a cloth that is very absorbant, could not get the coils to stop
flooding until I put this material in.
I use one of the famous "Blue Screwdrivers" that came with one of my RTA's to wrap my coils for it as it fits in the
slot of these heads very nicely. I have a Russian 91, Fogger V3 and a RDA and this tank beats them all!
I was a fan with the stock coils and rebuilding them just ups the awesomeness of these bad boys.
Don't want to sound needy, but I'm going to anyway... video please?
I need to see how you got the coil apart. And what the heck the rest of the stuff means that you're talking about! :confused:
 

rhammer186

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1/4 of the rayon rope out of the box and stretched out until it "squeaks" as it's pulled through, hope that makes sense.
The replacement material I stumbled on at work, its like a cloth that is very absorbant, could not get the coils to stop
flooding until I put this material in.
I use one of the famous "Blue Screwdrivers" that came with one of my RTA's to wrap my coils for it as it fits in the
slot of these heads very nicely. I have a Russian 91, Fogger V3 and a RDA and this tank beats them all!
I was a fan with the stock coils and rebuilding them just ups the awesomeness of these bad boys.

Im thinking it can be a great replacement for the BVC coils as well. They too use a filler on the inside. I generally used the paper thin outer layer/ "pillow" of an organic cotton round.

Any ideas what it is you found at work???!!
 

LostVapeMonster

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Im thinking it can be a great replacement for the BVC coils as well. They too use a filler on the inside. I generally used the paper thin outer layer/ "pillow" of an organic cotton round.

Any ideas what it is you found at work???!!

:facepalm:
There's a reason the word "Lost" is in my screen name. :laugh:
 

Cheechako

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I would be happy to post pictures, unable to do a video.
My first thought was to use the outer layer of a japanese cotton pad but I don't use them.
I will also post pics of the material and possibly someone will be able to identify it.
Since the material does not come in contact with the actual heat of the coil, I really didn't
care if it was a poly-cotton mix.
I'm not sure if i should start a new thread with the pics of rebuilding? Quite a fan base in here, but not
sure if rebuilding is of much interest...
 

Oregon Linda

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I would be happy to post pictures, unable to do a video.
My first thought was to use the outer layer of a japanese cotton pad but I don't use them.
I will also post pics of the material and possibly someone will be able to identify it.
Since the material does not come in contact with the actual heat of the coil, I really didn't
care if it was a poly-cotton mix.
I'm not sure if i should start a new thread with the pics of rebuilding? Quite a fan base in here, but not
sure if rebuilding is of much interest...

I'm with Lost - please post it here! I would love to rebuild these coils, but can't figure out how to get into them without tearing them up. So if you could post pictures of that part, it would be great!
 

rhammer186

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:facepalm:
There's a reason the word "Lost" is in my screen name. [emoji23]
Youtube is my friend. I spend countless hours watching rebuild videos. Just bc i watch them and know how its supposed to to be done doesn't mean im any good at it!!!!! Actually, im horrible at it ;) but im not giving up just yet.
 

Javamon

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I finaly found a replacement for the wicking material between the tank and the wicks of the coil so
I have been rebuilding my original coils that came with my three tanks with rayon wicks, single coil
with 29 gauge kanthal at 1.4 to 1.5 ohms and it is a slice of fried gold!
Yeah I know, coils are cheap but the flavor and vapor production are phenominal rebuilt.
I think I can safely retire my Mini Protank II's.

Video or it didn't happen. :)
 

Cheechako

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Well here's the pics documenting the process as best I can:

The coil after the top is off, I put the coil in an old T3 bottom and use needle nose pliers to pull it off.
It comes off relatively easy and can be done by hand after the initial breakdown:
SAM_1750.jpg

Here's the coil broken down completely. It was pretty dirty after one or so weeks use.
It really looks nasty!
SAM_1751.jpg

Clean and recoil with a single coil as I cannot recoil a dual coil, but with 28 gauge and 8-9 wraps I can
get down to 1.4 or 1.5. You can see how I use the blue screwdriver to coil on and hold it in place while
replacing the plugs on the bottom. You should be able to google a lot of videos on rebuilding the
Pro tank coils in order to see how this is done. It is exactly the same.
SAM_1752.jpg

Here the coil has the Rayon put in the coil, you can use cotton if you choose I'm sure.
SAM_1753.jpg

Here's the coil with a haircut. I trim the Rayon as close to the metal as possible to make it easier to wrap with
the material.
SAM_1754.jpg

To be continued...
 
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Cheechako

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Here's the material I found, it's about 4 X 4 folded into a pad.
SAM_1755.jpg

I unfold it and cut a strip approx the height I need from the top of the coil to where
the "cap" compression fits onto the bottom.
SAM_1756.jpg

I then wrap it around the coil and hold it with one hand while lowering the cap onto
the coil, turning the cap in the direction the material is wound. Doing this holds the
wrapped material in place while fitting the cap on.
SAM_1757.jpg

It is much easier than I am making it sound I'm sure! After placing the cap on and pushing it down by hand,
I use the needle nose pliers to gently push the cap back into it's compressed position...
Without priming I placed the new coil into my Air tank and without priming proceeded to enjoy my
homemade Horchata 100% VG juice!
The material I found is that absorbant!
 

Oregon Linda

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Thanks for the pictures, Cheechako! That makes it a lot clearer to me. I've been afraid to take the pliers to that round cap because I was afraid I'd totally destroy it getting it off. So I'm surprised to hear that it comes off so easily.

One question: once you take that top off, rather than building a new coil, could you have instead just dry burned it and rewicked the old coils?
 

Cheechako

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Thanks for the pictures, Cheechako! That makes it a lot clearer to me. I've been afraid to take the pliers to that round cap because I was afraid I'd totally destroy it getting it off. So I'm surprised to hear that it comes off so easily.

One question: once you take that top off, rather than building a new coil, could you have instead just dry burned it and rewicked the old coils?

I had considered that and have dry burned the coils without taking it apart, but as you can see, it was pretty nasty looking
inside. This might be the one that I tried to dry burn as there are scorch marks on the liner material...
The cap does come off easier than you might think with a little bit of gentle prying with needle nose pliers.
The trick is to anchor the coil with either an old T3 bottom or the bottom of the GS Air.
Please don't try this with a coil unless it's an old one that is ready to be replaced! I hate the thought that someone
would be upset that I caused them to ruin a perfectly good coil!
The coil is also larger than the Mini Protank coils I'm used to working with so I was able to use 28 Gauge Kanthal
in order to reach lower ohms.

The material I used for the liner is used in medical applications, phlebotomy or some such as an absorbant pad much
like gauze.
 
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