Eleaf GS Air Fan

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IMRs

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Just sayin'
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aldenf

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Aaaaaaaaaaawwww. Robin Williams. :(

Yeah... Robin was a tormented genius. He's the perfect example that the line ain't so fine between genius and insanity. Met him once. Partied in his "rec room" in Frisco. Seemed like an awfully nice man.
 

IMRs

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Were you born and raised in Tijuana? You seem very fond of Herb and his boys... ;)
Not sure what it is about Herb. I have so many people that I like musically. I guess he has a place in my heart. I think the first time I ever had an opportunity to play on a real set of drums (when I was about 7), it was to play to his albums at a friends house. Other than that, I think he's one of our musical geniuses, but obviously he can't sing. :lol:
 

Cheechako

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Friends visiting from what Mud calls 'Jawja', so off to dinner we go, in a little place overlooking...
27.jpg



Here's some nostalgia, thanks to the Ed Sullivan Show, in glorious black & white.



Nice view!
Ed Sullivan, that was on Sunday nights I think...Topo Gigo!
 

Burn3d

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Sorry for the long post

Has anyone has their original GS Air threads strip?


I only have an iStick 30w to test the tank on. It was working fine then it started the have a little wobble when tightened...now it wont thread on at all.

I don't know if it's the tank or the iStick. The EGO adapter threads on the iStick perfectly so I'm assuming it's the tank.

my question is---is this common with these cheap tanks? I was going to purchase a new GS AIR M and don't want the same problem after a month or two.

Is the base of the GS AIR M compatible with the original GS AIR? I ask because the tank works perfectly if it would just thread on.

I also tried to thread it on to the inside of the EGO adapter tip and it threaded once(not very well either) but now it won't.

I think I ruled out the iStick as the problem. Right now I'm using Aspire EGO CE5 clearomizer with the EGO adpater and the iStick works fine.


To everyone that replied to my freak out posts regarding this..THANK YOU

I'm not sure what is wrong. I purchased two of the new GS AIR M tanks and they thread on fine.

I bought a cheap 510 to 510 mini extension and the old GS AIR threads onto it and the iStick fine.

Not sure what the problem in. I should have ordered another old model GS AIR to see but didn't want to waste the money.

I guess I'll get to a B&M store one of days and see if they can thread it on to one of their iSticks. I'll probably end up getting a bending adapter as a precaution as the cheapy 510 adapter is soft, cheap metal

Again. Thanks for letting me flood the thread like a nut


EDIT: Comparing how the new tank threads on to the 510 extension and how the old tank threads on it's pretty clear there are some stripped threads. It just happens to still thread onto the adapter and not the iStick. Probably not for long
 
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Burn3d

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Generally the iStick threads strip, which is why so many people use an adapter and screw the tank into that. I have been using the Airs on eGo One batteries for a couple of months with no threading issues at all.

I'm pretty sure it's the GS Air but I'm going to get a bending adapter simply as a thread saver.

It appears the tank's threads are stripped a bit as it threads on to a 510 extension but is a little difficult to get it to start threading compared to a new GS Air M I purchased which threads right on to the extension and the iStick.
 

Jumpin' In...

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Did my first rebuild of a GSA coil yesterday. I had a couple of setbacks, but in the end found that it's really not much different from rebuilding single-coil ProTank coils.

Did 10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal on a 2 mm drill bit, which came out at 1.5 Ohm. Used Japanese cotton as wicking and a thin strip of the "ironed" outermost layer of the pad as the surround (twice around). I used a sewing pin to shift and even out the cotton in the slots after putting the cap back on. No flooding or dry hits so far, but I'm using a 50/50 PG/VG eliquid.

I'm finding that it takes a lot of power to smooth out the vape on this build. Vaped it on the lower end - 10.5 to 12w or so - yesterday using my iStick 30. It was OK, but I wasn't that impressed. A little while ago, I upped the wattage up to 16 and the coil seemed to come alive - finally producing a thicker, smoother, more flavorful vape. Vapor production is still not on-par with my little A6 dripper though and I haven't compared it side-by-side to my Mini ProTank 2 rebuilds yet, but it's not bad at all for when I'm out and about (and the form factor rocks). Seems like shutting down the airflow helps in the flavor department. It's quite a warm vape on the GSA MS.

I'm going to forget about the stock coils - hated the the taste of silica. I'll rebuild them soon. I'll probably try 30 gauge kanthal next - to try to get the wattage down. I hope you guys continue to post your findings regarding the 29 gauge wire - you may be on to something there. I might have to buy a spool. (Sigh - there's no end, is there?)

Thanks for the very helpful vids, Cheech! The top cap removal thing works like a charm.

(PS: I can see that the weak point is going to be the rubber grommet. Too bad they didn't use a silicone instead.)
 

solace.discord

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I have all my used coils taken apart and cleaned and ready for a 12+ rebuilding session tomorrow morning with the new silicone insulators! going with 29g again, slightly spaced wraps.. going to do 7 top wraps this time instead of 6, as they test at 1.2-1.3 (what I prefer) but drop to 1.1 as soon as I actually use them.. (I am also testing on a 20w istick, never the same as my 30w's)

I'm going through those rubber o-rings and taking out the ones that are torn up a bit.. silicone o-rings from FT still haven't shipped.. but those are easy to switch out as soon as they arrive- won't have to rebuild the whole darn thing for that!
 

Cheechako

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Did my first rebuild of a GSA coil yesterday. I had a couple of setbacks, but in the end found that it's really not much different from rebuilding single-coil ProTank coils.

Did 10 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal on a 2 mm drill bit, which came out at 1.5 Ohm. Used Japanese cotton as wicking and a thin strip of the "ironed" outermost layer of the pad as the surround (twice around). I used a sewing pin to shift and even out the cotton in the slots after putting the cap back on. No flooding or dry hits so far, but I'm using a 50/50 PG/VG eliquid.

I'm finding that it takes a lot of power to smooth out the vape on this build. Vaped it on the lower end - 10.5 to 12w or so - yesterday using my iStick 30. It was OK, but I wasn't that impressed. A little while ago, I upped the wattage up to 16 and the coil seemed to come alive - finally producing a thicker, smoother, more flavorful vape. Vapor production is still not on-par with my little A6 dripper though and I haven't compared it side-by-side to my Mini ProTank 2 rebuilds yet, but it's not bad at all for when I'm out and about (and the form factor rocks). Seems like shutting down the airflow helps in the flavor department. It's quite a warm vape on the GSA MS.

I'm going to forget about the stock coils - hated the the taste of silica. I'll rebuild them soon. I'll probably try 30 gauge kanthal next - to try to get the wattage down. I hope you guys continue to post your findings regarding the 29 gauge wire - you may be on to something there. I might have to buy a spool. (Sigh - there's no end, is there?)

Thanks for the very helpful vids, Cheech! The top cap removal thing works like a charm.

(PS: I can see that the weak point is going to be the rubber grommet. Too bad they didn't use a silicone instead.)
Rebuilding makes a good Air great...glad you had success!
I'm still playing with the 29 guage kanthal to see what I like. No, there is no end to it...but the wire is the price of a pack of coils!
You're welcome, glad you found the vids helpful. :)
 

Cheechako

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I have all my used coils taken apart and cleaned and ready for a 12+ rebuilding session tomorrow morning with the new silicone insulators! going with 29g again, slightly spaced wraps.. going to do 7 top wraps this time instead of 6, as they test at 1.2-1.3 (what I prefer) but drop to 1.1 as soon as I actually use them.. (I am also testing on a 20w istick, never the same as my 30w's)

I'm going through those rubber o-rings and taking out the ones that are torn up a bit.. silicone o-rings from FT still haven't shipped.. but those are easy to switch out as soon as they arrive- won't have to rebuild the whole darn thing for that!
I've got my grommets coming in the mail...
I was going to wait for your review, but after seeing your pics, I went ahead and ordered them.
I am anxiously awaiting your review of them on your rebuilds! :thumbs:
 

tiburonfirst

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I'm pretty sure it's the GS Air but I'm going to get a bending adapter simply as a thread saver.

It appears the tank's threads are stripped a bit as it threads on to a 510 extension but is a little difficult to get it to start threading compared to a new GS Air M I purchased which threads right on to the extension and the iStick.

why not check health cabin for a new gs air base?
 
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