Eleaf GS Air Fan

[Cirus]

USPS: 153.9 million delivery locations in the US... 153.899 million of them can't track their crap accurately.

I've been very fortunate. In 28 months of vaping this is only the second problem I've had.
(where's some wood to knock on?)

 

[Cirus]

Or enter into out dark realm and try your hand at rebuilding them.....

Done that with mpt2/evod which is what currently use. So cheap why bother? Just wanted to do it because I can, kinda thing. Might do it consistently with the gsam. We'll see. Thanks for all your posts!

 

[Cloudmann]

Thanks for all your posts!

No worries. If you've done rebuilds before, it's a piece of cake. Use my rough guides and Cheech's detailed ones for rebuilds. I tend to do vertical builds, myself... that's why I'm liking these new 1.2 ohm coils. They're a bit friendlier to use to that end, so far.

At roughly 35 cents per rebuild versus the $2.00 per prebuilt, it's really worth it.

 

[Katya]

Done that with mpt2/evod which is what currently use. So cheap why bother? Just wanted to do it because I can, kinda thing. Might do it consistently with the gsam. We'll see. Thanks for all your posts!

Good luck and enjoy!

Those coils are good FOOB and rebuilt...

 

[Mrmik]

No worries. If you've done rebuilds before, it's a piece of cake. Use my rough guides and Cheech's detailed ones for rebuilds. I tend to do vertical builds, myself... that's why I'm liking these new 1.2 ohm coils. They're a bit friendlier to use to that end, so far.

At roughly 35 cents per rebuild versus the $2.00 per prebuilt, it's really worth it.

My coil is still good so have not gotten to do the rebuild yet.
Thanks for all the tricks and ideas to remove the cap.
The rebuild process should be easy, especially vertical.
Now, how to put cap back on..... was thinking of drilling a hole on a small wood piece to fit the chimney chute. Putcap upside down in there and with your fingers press the whole coil assembly over it. Snap, done....
Theoretically at least.... LOL

 

[Cloudmann]

My coil is still good so have not gotten to do the rebuild yet.
Thanks for all the tricks and ideas to remove the cap.
The rebuild process should be easy, especially vertical.
Now, how to put cap back on..... was thinking of drilling a hole on a small wood piece to fit the chimney chute. Putcap upside down in there and with your fingers press the whole coil assembly over it. Snap, done....
Theoretically at least.... LOL

At first, I thought so too and tried all kinds of contraptions... turns out it's actually a whole lot simpler to just use a pair of soft jaw channel locks. See my post with the pics a page or two back... pop one side in and hold it in place, then snap the other end in place with the soft jaws... takes 2 seconds.

 

[Mrmik]

At first, I thought so too and tried all kinds of contraptions... turns out it's actually a whole lot simpler to just use a pair of soft jaw channel locks. See my post with the pics a page or two back... pop one side in and hold it in place, then snap the other end in place with the soft jaws... takes 2 seconds.

Alright, will try it soon. Thanks......

 

[Bikenstein]

Okay. Well I did your little experiment and the results remain the same. The 30w is a much smoother hit.

The 20w is using pwm to regulate. It doesn't buck the voltage below battery voltage, but, to provide a decrease in total watts applied to the coil, it pulses the battery voltage to the coil. The lower your setting, the longer the time between pulses. The higher the setting, the less time between pulses. But it pulses the same battery voltage all the time until you set it above battery voltage. Then it will pulse a boost in the battery voltage until it caps out. It will eventually get to an almost steady output at maximum voltage. The 30 on the other hand has an almost flat output. So turning it up or down you still get an almost smooth consistent voltage at the coil.

 

[Susaz]

I'm a little outphased, has anybody tried the new GS that comes with the TC40?

 

[tiburonfirst]

don't think anybody has gotten their hands on one ............. yet

 

[Cloudmann]

don't think anybody has gotten their hands on one ............. yet

That's correct... they're due to be released in something like three days.

 

[Cloudmann]

So, I got 'er done...

I figured out the right wick density for the 1.2 ohm rebuild. Actually had this done about a day and a half ago... just making sure it would work consistently... it does. No more flooding, no dry hits.

I had to wrap the cotton surprisingly tight. It feels like a cartomizer poly-fill interior, it's so tightly wound... guess that guaze sleeve in the older coils actually did a lot to prevent flooding.

Anyhow, wick density doesn't translate well to pics and video, but here's a pic of my coil anyways... 28 AWG kanthal, 5/64 inch inner diameter, 7 wraps, 1.13 ohms on my resistance meter. Tons of cotton... tons of it. Ignore the condition of the wick. It's not burnt... I vape some pretty heavy and dark NET liquids and it darkens the wick after a tank full. Works like a champ, though. I've had it running at up to 30 watts on my iStick 30 with 100% VG cut to an 80% consistency with distilled water... works great, but a bit too hot for me. I settled in around 21.5 watts. That worked out close enough that I'm running it at 20 watts on my Mini iStick 20W. I'd expect another week to ten days' life out of it. Total cost to rebuild, about 40 cents. Not too shabby... and surprisingly little work... now that the logistics have been sorted out!

 

[Cloudmann]

Ok, so never mind the allen wrench... inspiration struck and I found a much better method that I didn't consider for whatever reason. While doing a rebuild of any kind, I always use a metal dental pick I got at a drug store for a couple of bucks. I use the blunt metal end to generally pull off o rings and whatnot and the pointy end to fluff up wicking or tweak out coil positions (both ends work awesome for these purposes, btw). It's some pretty heavy duty metal, meant to be used on tooth enamel... it's durable. See the pics.

For whatever reason, it didn't occur to me to try and use the blunt end of the pick to pry the cap off... fits perfect and works like a champ. Still no go on video recording love in my world (bloody cheap phone), but I snapped a few pics... The first one is the pick. The second is the blunt end.

The third picture is the pick inserted into the cap. Here, the "pointy" end of the pick is curved upward and is against the corner inside of the chamber, right under the cap. Get it here and pry slightly, rotate 90 degrees and repeat. Keep doing this until it pops off (I usually get it on the third rotation, but have had it pop on the first pry). The fourth pic is the cap hanging on the pick after removal.

For reassembly, I put one end of the cap into the housing and hold it in place with my finger (see fifth picture). Then I use soft jaw channel locks to pop the loose end back in gently and slowly. Sometimes I have to rotate once. If you don't have soft jaw channel locks, regular channel locks work fine... just put a strip of paper towel between the jaws and the coil.

All in all, it's actually pretty damn easy with the dental pick. Besides the channel locks to reassemble, no other tools or props are needed at all. And elbow grease is pretty minimal.

Just make sure to get a really good, metal dental pick and to use the stubby, fat, blunt end.

The base of the coil comes off with just the fingernails and I can pull the old coil and wick out either after removing the cap or straight through the bottom with just finger pressure... literally no tools needed other than the pick... until you rebuild and reassemble. And I use the pick anyhow to remove the o ring and silicone cap without damaging them.

So, forget about the allen wrench. The Cloudmann cap removal process is here and this is about as simple as it gets. Go get a fancy toothpick.


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Just FYI on this process... it's TONS easier to remove the cap once the guts of the coil are removed through the bottom of the housing after pulling the firing pin and grommet... The wick gets in the way of the pick and doesn't allow you to use it as easily as a fulcrum to pry the cap. It's certainly doable with the coil and wick still in place, but it works out a whole lot easier if you yank them out through the base first. Since you're doing a rebuild anyhow, it makes sense to do it that way... unless you just want to see a prefab coil once.

 

[LynnNC]

I have one of the new GS tanks winging its way to me as I type.. Of course, it's on a slow boat from China.

 

[Cloudmann]

OK, so I finally overcame most of my technical difficulties with my cheap webcam and I finally recorded and posted my video review of the iStick Mini 20W and the GS air MS... still no love on close up videos for rebuild instructions or whatnot. Poo.

Anyhow, see my review here:
Eleaf Mini iStick 20W and GS Air MS review | E-Cigarette Forum

Thanks!

 

[Jingles]

That's correct... they're due to be released in something like three days.

Still checking Sweet-Vapes and Evape on a daily basis! I want to get the IStick TC, new tank and TC coils all at once!

 

[LynnNC]

Still checking Sweet-Vapes and Evape on a daily basis! I want to get the IStick TC, new tank and TC coils all at once!

Jingles, that's what I did.

 

[Cloudmann]

For those interested, you can get the whole kit with the 40W TC and the GS Tank here:
Eleaf iStick 40w Kit Temperature Control Box Mod with GS-Tank Best Matching Kit - Cvapor.com
Use the discount code AVU10OFF and it comes out to $45.39, shipped. They're in China, but most people have had as good of luck with them as with Fasttech. In other words, expect slow shipping. Still, this is as cheap as this kit gets.

 

[LynnNC]

Cloudmann, that's where mine was ordered from. It's in transit.

 

[IMRs]

Lost, your iStick doesn't hit "harder." It just fires a whole volt higher than your display indicates... Long story--iStick 20 doesn't step down and is miscalibrated. IOW, when your display shows 3v, you're actually getting 4.2v (on a freshly charged battery)... Don't ask... Adjust your voltage accordingly. Just add 1 volt to what you see on your screen to get the actual voltage.

Hello Kat.. This is what I love about the 20's.
Afternoon everyone!