I have them both myself, and have torn both apart to rebuild, and still have fresh ones here. Airflow base is identical diameter, body is identical other than the laser etching, amount of wick is identical, etc. Resistance is the only difference.
Eleaf's new MELO sub ohm tank
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As far as "airflow control" on the Subtanks, I was referring to the manual airflow intake adjustment dial (if that explains it any better) - not the amount of total available intake and flow within the head or chimney of the device. I assume those are pretty much non-adjustable in and of themselves. I suspect that with differently coiled and wicked heads for different ohm resistance ratings you are bound to get variations between a 0.5 ohm and 1.2 ohm head. The inside diameter of the wrapped coil will likely be different, as well as how much wick material is used in there because of that. So, you will certainly experience some "airflow" difference based on that alone. I've experienced that before on other devices between different ohm resistance level heads within a design that is otherwise exactly the same. Bigger, lower ohm coils tend to have a bit more airflow, and often have less constricted wicking as well, but that depends on the device and the quality of the build. When you rebuild you can customize that stuff quite a bit, like with how high you position the coil over the device's air intake hole (just as an example). With factory made coil heads you get what you get - with some variation just due to imperfect mass production quality control.
Just received MELO and 50w Istick. Appears that the MELO is simply an Atlantis clone with a different air configuration. Mine only has 5 holes instead of 6 as it appears they decided to use the 6th to insert a retaining pin for the air adjuster. Others who received it today, please confirm as both of mine arrived that way. Also appears all parts are interchangeable with the Atlantis.
50w Istick is perfect. Hits right, feels good in hand, zero button rattle for those who care.
I see no noticeable difference between hits on Atlantis and MELO. I will report ore with additional use. Even the drip tip fits from the Atlantis!
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Cool thanks. Yeah right now I'm running the Atlantis with the aspire sub ohm battery so I know the istick would be a huge upgrade in both power and battery life. I've watched quite a few reviews on it too.
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I got my Melo in and I'm not jumping up and down for joy. I qualify that statement though, as I have only used it on a 18650 mech mod so far. On the mech mod it lacks flavor, and the vapor is good, not great. I have a Istick 50 coming that I want to try it on and see if it gets any better. My Orchid V6 Glass RTA, for me, is better vapor wise and flavor wise. Let's see what the 50 can do with it.
It'll get better on a regulated mod...on your mech you're likely only firing it in the 22 watt range with a fresh battery. That coil head design doesn't start to shine until its above 25 watts, and peaks at around 35 watts.
I haven't got a Melo tank, but did get a Subtank Mini recently. For a mouth-to-lung hit guy like me, even running stock 1.2 ohm coil heads, even at reduced wattage, it is too hot for me. Vapor delivery and flavor production was good on an iStick 30. I can't imagine running a stock build "sub ohm" tank on a straight mech mod. You need to adjust the voltage on a setup like this, unless you are building the RBA deck to suit your battery output. There's no RBA deck for a Melo, though I suppose you can rebuild the coil heads anyway - if you are into the effort. I will eventually build something like a 1.7 ohm coil with organic cotton or rayon wick for the Subtank Mini, but I don't have time for that now, so the tank is just sitting around unused in the meantime. If you are into the heat, than a stock sub ohm setup may work well for you. I just don't think it is for me, or for many others.
Got the melo and a 5 pack of coils and have already destroyed both coils that came with it. In 2 days the first coil was massively gunked up and actually spitting gunk in my mouth. The 2nd coil was already gunking up after only 1/2 a day.
I can't get good enough macro images of the internals of the coil as I have my macro lens on loan but I will see what I can't do...
By gunk I mean something that resembles, as best as I can explain, resin from a pipe, it's coal black, and for the most part is on the upper half of the coil which naturally would be the least wet part of the cotton.,
It was even pushing this gunk through the wire mesh on the first coil. The 2nd coil I removed the mess, but after only two tanks of juice I could clearly see the upper part of the coil was already blacked and gunked up.
And before anyone says I am running them too hot.. I am not, 20-22w is tops although I have tried 25-28w on the first coil and was starting to get burnt taste.
I run heavy VG juice and I don't care what anyone says, no prebuilt coil handles heavy 70-80+ VG properly, it's just too thick to seep through those holes.
I suppose 50/50 should be fine though.
Anyways, I am about ready to buy the Atlantis 5ML tank for the melo and was going to ask if anyone has tried it but I think from what everyone is saying they are identical and I don't think it will be any issue. That melo tank is just too damn small, I am filling over 6 times a day.
Final thought.....
I did prime both melo coils by putting juice in the top of the coil before putting it in the tank... I could see how this may be hurting the top of the coil so when I change it The coil I will not prime it this time but simply let it soak up what it can on its own.
I can't get good enough macro images of the internals of the coil as I have my macro lens on loan but I will see what I can't do...
By gunk I mean something that resembles, as best as I can explain, resin from a pipe, it's coal black, and for the most part is on the upper half of the coil which naturally would be the least wet part of the cotton.,
It was even pushing this gunk through the wire mesh on the first coil. The 2nd coil I removed the mess, but after only two tanks of juice I could clearly see the upper part of the coil was already blacked and gunked up.
And before anyone says I am running them too hot.. I am not, 20-22w is tops although I have tried 25-28w on the first coil and was starting to get burnt taste.
I run heavy VG juice and I don't care what anyone says, no prebuilt coil handles heavy 70-80+ VG properly, it's just too thick to seep through those holes.
I suppose 50/50 should be fine though.
Anyways, I am about ready to buy the Atlantis 5ML tank for the melo and was going to ask if anyone has tried it but I think from what everyone is saying they are identical and I don't think it will be any issue. That melo tank is just too damn small, I am filling over 6 times a day.
Final thought.....
I did prime both melo coils by putting juice in the top of the coil before putting it in the tank... I could see how this may be hurting the top of the coil so when I change it The coil I will not prime it this time but simply let it soak up what it can on its own.
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I always drip 2-3 drops at the coil whenever I rewick, but then I will also let is sip and sit for couple of hours before using. I believe that's the best way to prime it.
Let us know what happened with your 'simply let it soak up' experiment.
It's a one confusing matter about how to avoid the burnt things....
I should be getting my MELO today. OCC coils can handle high VG juices, so there's no reason the Melo coils (I guess atlantis coils since they're basically the same thing) wouldn't handle it. I've vaped sucker punch in my subtank mini with occ coils and that stuff is friggin' thick. You just can't chain vape it a lot like people are used to with their other devices.
I don't have the Atlantis yet still in shipping. But yes 6th hole is a pin, looks like its press fit.
The drip tip base looks like chrome plate not SS.
I did of course have to take the cartridge apart and used the original coil but wrapped it with KGD.
Left the original wrap off too. No flooding/leaking JC wide open. A little bit of that wrap is left inside. Not sure how it comes out so just left it.
I'm not sure if the original crumbly stuff is supposed to be cotton or not but it sure feels like the MMMF from the nautilus mini cartridge.
Airflow is less restrictive than the Lemo, the Silverplay might have a slight edge on the Melo. Melo with KGD rewrap handles 30W no problem. At 36W its flavor is about on par with the Lemo but not with chain vapes. Cutting AF back to two holes and the flavor is wow even with chain vapes. So that tells me it's about right with the rewrap. Though the SP with Ni200 and KGD rails the DNA40 to 40W and it has better flavor wide open than the Melo wide open. Both Melo and SP put out way more vapor than I can handle. Gonna vape the Lemo at a measly 26W until I cut the nic strength of some juice. Woof.
I always have preferred vertical coils though, even in the foggers. Melo is easier to rebuild than the SP if you don't use too much KGD on it.
I've been running 30pg/70vg, 20pg/80vg juices through the Melo at 30 watts, I haven't had any gunking issues, juice has been wicking great. Hell, I've probably run 6-8 tanks through this one coil and it still looks almost new. So far my experience has been fine with higher VG juices through the Melo coils. The only thing I'd suggest is dumping the glass drip tip, it really is kind of ....ty, It's just to narrow.
Just for the hell of it, I rebuilt one of the Melo heads, didn't really put much time or effort into it, ended up with a 1.0 coil. Works good, with some actual thought and effort, this would have come out really nice. Pretty eayt head to rebuild actually, I think it took me maybe 5 minutes tops.
Hello everyone,
I received my Melo yesterday and do like it, but I guess you get what you pay for. It's a nice tank / clearomizer, but I'm having issues with it as well. Good stuff first. I like that it has 4 juice wells, it's a lot lighter than the original subtank (still my favorite) and like that the coils are reasonably priced, I bought 3 - 5 packs, so I'm good for now. Good flavor and good cloud production. I also like that it doesn't leak like my ST does (I now use O-rings from Lowes at the bottom to stop the leaks).
Now onto the my gripes about it. The thing I dislike the most is that the glass drip tip has been coming off a lot, sometimes it gets stuck to my lips, other times it just falls off. Need to find a way to secure it. Just a pain in the behind. Second, as mentioned above, I too am getting a lot of e-juice resin in the drip tip and also in the chimney. Third, the drip tip gets hot if chain vaping. I'll stop counting, but it also seems to be very thirsty, going through a lot of liquid very quickly. Maybe I never noticed with my ST because the tank is so big, but I have to refill the Melo often.
I saw that some of you took the coils apart, I don't know how to build, but have been rewicking my ST coils for the last month or so. Could someone please tell me how easy or difficult it is to take the coil apart and then proceed to rewick the coils?
Also, going back to gripe #1 - What do I need to know about purchasing a new drip tip? Is there a certain size that I need to order?
Thanks in advance,
Ki||@
I received my Melo yesterday and do like it, but I guess you get what you pay for. It's a nice tank / clearomizer, but I'm having issues with it as well. Good stuff first. I like that it has 4 juice wells, it's a lot lighter than the original subtank (still my favorite) and like that the coils are reasonably priced, I bought 3 - 5 packs, so I'm good for now. Good flavor and good cloud production. I also like that it doesn't leak like my ST does (I now use O-rings from Lowes at the bottom to stop the leaks).
Now onto the my gripes about it. The thing I dislike the most is that the glass drip tip has been coming off a lot, sometimes it gets stuck to my lips, other times it just falls off. Need to find a way to secure it. Just a pain in the behind. Second, as mentioned above, I too am getting a lot of e-juice resin in the drip tip and also in the chimney. Third, the drip tip gets hot if chain vaping. I'll stop counting, but it also seems to be very thirsty, going through a lot of liquid very quickly. Maybe I never noticed with my ST because the tank is so big, but I have to refill the Melo often.
I saw that some of you took the coils apart, I don't know how to build, but have been rewicking my ST coils for the last month or so. Could someone please tell me how easy or difficult it is to take the coil apart and then proceed to rewick the coils?
Also, going back to gripe #1 - What do I need to know about purchasing a new drip tip? Is there a certain size that I need to order?
Thanks in advance,
Ki||@
These are my favorite drip tips.
The blue one is glass. Both serve to cool down the vape. Vapor will condense inside both and you can see it inside the glass one. Notice both have dual O-rings. That makes them very stable less likely to fall out. Sometimes, larger O-rings are needed as not all manufacturers machine the 510 drip tip hole to the same diameter or depth. The glass one is angled and I like it better as I don't have to tilt the whole rig up. Notice the wide bore on the glass one, both at the 510 end and the mouth piece. The SS one is a standard hole ie smaller. I like to use the wide bore on high airflow attys. But the SS one on the right also makes a decent tool for taking the BVC coil cartridge apart LOL.
To rebuild a cartridge simply put a screwdriver through the hole in the bottom pin like a T-handle and pull the bottom pin out, then pull the insulator out (tweezers help), grab the coil legs and pull both at the same time (fingers or wide tip/parallel jaw pliers). Helps to pull gently and wiggle. This will pull the wicking and coil out together but leave the sleeve and screen inside the cartridge body. Then remove the stock wicking and rewrap the coil with KGD and reinsert into the cartridge body, insert insulator with the outside coil leg on the outside of the insulator and the inside coil leg on the inside of the insulator. Then reinsert pin.
You can reuse the coil or make your own on a 4mm mandrel.
There is an alternate method. There is a metal sleeve in the body with two flanges/slots. You can get that whole sleeve/wick/coil assembly out at one time. First remove pin and insulator. Now place a rod or socket of the right diameter in the top and while holding the cartridge body with a pair of pliers, tap the sleeve out with a hammer. Shown below, the long ribbed SS drip tip fits perfectly for this purpose. Lightly tap the bottom of the drip tip with the hammer. The sleeve will pop out. Dont squeeze the body with the pliers too tight as it will crush it. The bodies are thin wall brass with chrome plating. Just position the pliers so the jaws catch the top lip of the cartridge.
Then rebuild with KGD, insert insulator and pin into sleeve. Optionally rewrap paper around sleeve, I didn't. Then put that assembly into the cartridge body and squeeze together with pliers.
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