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Hmmm, with all of this information someone should write a guide for those who need it in the future or just to look back on it for reference
Hmmm, with all of this information someone should write a guide for those who need it in the future or just to look back on it for reference
For some extra stuff, like you need it right now
, google these:filetype(colon)pdf basic electronics
filetype(colon)pdf electronic tutorial
(put an actual colon : in place of (colon). when I put it in right, it gives me this-
)That will give you pdfs(books) you can save on your computer & have handy for quick answers when all these great minds here are at work & such.
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Thanks.
I will note that you can, in fact, design for current. You just have to get the basics in place first, and start at the right end (and it's easier to just design for voltage). Once you know a bit more about this stuff, you might find that you'll be figuring things such as limiting resistors, because if you're shooting for 5V from battery power, then you're looking at maybe 2 3.7V batteries in series, with a resistor to drop 2.4V so your atty gets only 5. You need to know the resistance of your atty to do this. I'm not suggesting this is the best approach, just one way. Experienced modders might know of a better way to get 5V from a battery system. (You could, for example, use a voltage regulator -- madvapes sells them.)
(You can also design for wattage. But again, first principles first. And then you're looking at what wattage for your load, in our case, the atomizer, not trying to start out with what the power supply looks like.)
Hmmm, well I noticed you said batteries in series, what is the difference between running them in series and parallel?
And would that even be a correct diagram for it?
And would that even be a correct diagram for it?
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Keep at it, each time a little something 'clicks' you are getting closer.
Sort out the facts from the opinions.
V=IR is a fact.
5 volts is the 'sweet spot' is an opinion.
When everything is the way you want it, you will be able to design for a specific wattage (amount of heat generated) using a specific voltage source into a specific atty resistance giving a resulting amperage. Change atty resistance and everything changes. If you are designing mods to sell use the current hype ' the true sweet spot is 4.785 volts'. That will sell. It's still just an opinion, but you'll get all the free advertising from all the latest hype.
If you are designing a mod for yourself to improve performance over what you presently vape you will need to know the parameters of the system you are using now.
Define your objectives.
Series vs parallel, your diagram is correct. The series connection adds up all the voltage sources in series (like six 2.1 volt lead acid cells in series in a car battery).
Parallel will equalize the voltage between all parallel connected cells (hope they are the same voltage) but give you "spare power", (just lasts longer).
Linear circuits (using good old static state ohms law) to reduce 7.4 volts to 5 waste about 1/3 of the battery power as heat in the resistor or regulator. Gets you 5 volts, but wastes power. Charge pumps, pulse width modulated regulators are more efficient but more complicated. In applications like airborne model planes where weight and efficiency are critical the extra complexity is necessary. In an e-cig, well, maybe not.
Sort out the facts from the opinions.
V=IR is a fact.
5 volts is the 'sweet spot' is an opinion.
When everything is the way you want it, you will be able to design for a specific wattage (amount of heat generated) using a specific voltage source into a specific atty resistance giving a resulting amperage. Change atty resistance and everything changes. If you are designing mods to sell use the current hype ' the true sweet spot is 4.785 volts'. That will sell. It's still just an opinion, but you'll get all the free advertising from all the latest hype.
If you are designing a mod for yourself to improve performance over what you presently vape you will need to know the parameters of the system you are using now.
Define your objectives.
Series vs parallel, your diagram is correct. The series connection adds up all the voltage sources in series (like six 2.1 volt lead acid cells in series in a car battery).
Parallel will equalize the voltage between all parallel connected cells (hope they are the same voltage) but give you "spare power", (just lasts longer).
Linear circuits (using good old static state ohms law) to reduce 7.4 volts to 5 waste about 1/3 of the battery power as heat in the resistor or regulator. Gets you 5 volts, but wastes power. Charge pumps, pulse width modulated regulators are more efficient but more complicated. In applications like airborne model planes where weight and efficiency are critical the extra complexity is necessary. In an e-cig, well, maybe not.
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Jeeze, Mr. R-Man, you are a lifesaver =] Plus you seem to be a late night browser like myself, so that's a definite plus.
Tons of info from ya and it is all very much appreciated.
Now with the info from the parallel vs series, I guess I gotta change what I was trying to do with this mess XD
Sorry for the bad paint skills, its just a quick make up of an idea, and I couldn't find the wiring diagram for the one that someone here had. That and I have (almost) no clue what I'm doing or talking about. (where is says 5v at the switch is supposed to be 7.4, its meant to show which route it would take for each of the settings)
edit: would the second one work somehow?
Tons of info from ya and it is all very much appreciated.
Now with the info from the parallel vs series, I guess I gotta change what I was trying to do with this mess XD
Sorry for the bad paint skills, its just a quick make up of an idea, and I couldn't find the wiring diagram for the one that someone here had. That and I have (almost) no clue what I'm doing or talking about. (where is says 5v at the switch is supposed to be 7.4, its meant to show which route it would take for each of the settings)
edit: would the second one work somehow?
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The second would work ( you plan on two vape switches? or a slide swide to select voltage? Don't want the possibility of selecting both at the same time.
BUT:
If you vaped at 3.7 volts from one battery and discharged it, and tried to vape at 5 volts later, one battery would be fully charged and the other one would be less charged. Not Good.
If you really want to vape at 5 volts from 7.4 volts, throwing away the extra volts in the really really hot regulator (remember 1/3 of all the power coming from the batteries is just to heat up your regulator). How about an adjustable regulator preset for 4.785 volts or a mod for 3.7 (parallel batteries, and a mod for 5 volts. and a flashlight mod and, and and
Heat sink will be required to make the regulator reliable.
BUT:
If you vaped at 3.7 volts from one battery and discharged it, and tried to vape at 5 volts later, one battery would be fully charged and the other one would be less charged. Not Good.
If you really want to vape at 5 volts from 7.4 volts, throwing away the extra volts in the really really hot regulator (remember 1/3 of all the power coming from the batteries is just to heat up your regulator). How about an adjustable regulator preset for 4.785 volts
or a mod for 3.7 (parallel batteries, and a mod for 5 volts. and a flashlight mod and, and and Heat sink will be required to make the regulator reliable.
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You and you 4.785
But I was just thinkin to have one for on the go for just havin. But I think I'll just make separate mods for each 3.7 and 4.785 volt vaping. That and I plan on modding the heck out of anything I see(already have plans for a NES controller, an old gameboy pocket and a couple of other things I have laying around my house)
And the first switch was for the 3.7 or 5v choosing. So I just wont do that mod. But at least I figured it out, right?
Time to start pulling electrical things apart all over my house
But I was just thinkin to have one for on the go for just havin. But I think I'll just make separate mods for each 3.7 and 4.785 volt vaping. That and I plan on modding the heck out of anything I see(already have plans for a NES controller, an old gameboy pocket and a couple of other things I have laying around my house)
And the first switch was for the 3.7 or 5v choosing. So I just wont do that mod. But at least I figured it out, right?
Time to start pulling electrical things apart all over my house
You have caught the fever. I have searched the internet and have not been able to find a cure.
I left the house once with only one mod. No spare batteries, no spare attys, just one mod. Now it was a big battery mod (18650) and should have latest most of the day, but what if the atty died, or the battery wasn't fully charged, or something happened to the mod and it quit working (like a brick fell out of the sky and broke it)?
I don't go next door without a backup no more.
Make a couple simple ones first. Then start looking. Sometimes I close one eye and squint to get a different perspective when looking for things to mod.
I left the house ( at work now) without my reading glasses so excuse any typos.
But you can bet one mod failing ain't gonna impact me tonight.
http://www.vapeatron.com/attachments/843d1270860323-travelkit.jpg
I left the house once with only one mod. No spare batteries, no spare attys, just one mod. Now it was a big battery mod (18650) and should have latest most of the day, but what if the atty died, or the battery wasn't fully charged, or something happened to the mod and it quit working (like a brick fell out of the sky and broke it)?
I don't go next door without a backup no more.
Make a couple simple ones first. Then start looking. Sometimes I close one eye and squint to get a different perspective when looking for things to mod.
I left the house ( at work now) without my reading glasses so excuse any typos.
But you can bet one mod failing ain't gonna impact me tonight.
http://www.vapeatron.com/attachments/843d1270860323-travelkit.jpg
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I caught the fever before I ever made one, this weekend can't come soon enough. I've always been a tech nerd and even worse always liked building things with my own hands, ever since I was little and boy scouts gave me a knife and a piece of wood.
But I am planning on starting with the basic nicostick, then working my way up through everything. Making sure I have a spare atty stored away in the box mod itself maybe even a slot to hold the already charged spare battery
Rocket, seems like we're playing ping pong in my threads on the mod forums, got a good little game goin here.
But I am planning on starting with the basic nicostick, then working my way up through everything. Making sure I have a spare atty stored away in the box mod itself
maybe even a slot to hold the already charged spare battery Rocket, seems like we're playing ping pong in my threads on the mod forums, got a good little game goin here.
Just had to ask the right questions
I figured I would since I haven't seen them all condensed anywhere, so its a good reference for people, if you ever see questions, just poin em here.As does mine, so much its ridiculous. But I think I got most of it down!
Yeah, well the 2-batty config is just what I've seen in the threads I've browsed. 4 AAAs might be a bit cumbersome. According to Wikipedia, NiCd and NiMH AAA cells are only 1.2V, so you'd need 5. Somewhere, somewhen, maybe there's a compact simple efficient 5V source. But TANSTAAFL.
Curiosity got the better of me, so i figured I'd just see what's out there. Heck, at Instructables, some guy is hooking a 5V regulator to a 9V cell. Well, it's compact anyway. But yes, Virginia, there are 5V battery packs.
I don't know if that's the case it does appear that you can get 1A+ out of a USB computer port. Many of the newer '5V' USB 510 PT's (with 3 wires) and no inline batteries do in fact vape at a higher voltage than a stock e-cig batt.
Many folks have/do use PT's with no inline batteries, 801, 901, KR808 etc. Not one of these atties will fire up if only 500mA was available.
There are tons of them available, but if Li-ion rechargeable based they are simply the same thing that modders do, multiple 3.7V batts and a 5V regulator. Most times though their regulators only output 5V@1A (the Kensington says 1.4A).
12V / 5V 4800mA Capacity USB Lithium Battery for Security CCTV Camera ST-1248U - DinoDirect.com
This one looks interesting but true specs are lacking/confusing.
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Yeah, I agree with this. I remember calculating voltage drops across resistors. Say you wanted 10v @ 1 amp so 10 watts you figure. But, you would be adding another resistor to get there which means your atty won't be getting 10 watts, only part of it. The other resistor would be heating up also. So this calculation is a little more complicated then it would appear.
Alright class, project time.
Wanna play with a device that would be just about the weirdestmost passthru?
Go get a decent radio control car. Not competition grade, not 6 year old Christmas toy, something in between. Charge up the Nimh battery pack, disconnect the motor and wire a 510 LR atty in it's place. Maybe a couple feet of wire so it won't look like you're sucking on a toy car tail pipe.
Radio control throttle is now your vape switch. (PWM BTW). All the electronics is right there.
Wanna play with a device that would be just about the weirdestmost passthru?
Go get a decent radio control car. Not competition grade, not 6 year old Christmas toy, something in between. Charge up the Nimh battery pack, disconnect the motor and wire a 510 LR atty in it's place. Maybe a couple feet of wire so it won't look like you're sucking on a toy car tail pipe
.Radio control throttle is now your vape switch. (PWM BTW). All the electronics is right there.
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