ERA clone not firing

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lizardnipples

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Hey guys,

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what their resolution was.

I bought a smok mini rda and modded it for BF to use on my mini 2.1. I screwed the thing down as far as it will go and it will not fire. Removed the o-ring in the cup, no glow. Tapped the center pin on the atty, no glow. Wiggled the pin on the reo from the bottom, no glow. I tested on my ego and it lit right up. I really don't want to go jacking around with my reo and break something for this POS, just wondering if I should chalk it up to a bum atty or not.

Thanks for the help
 

lizardnipples

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Sorry for the delay. I had to go to Walmart to replace my microwave. Apparently it is not as reliable as my Reo :)



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darkzero

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I have used the smok Squids. Looking at the pics the center post doesn't look out of the ordinary. Some ERA clones (the SS ones) have really long center posts that can crush the gaskets on the REO's 510 & possibly short out. On my Squids & Phoenix V4s (ERA clone), while I have the center post out for modifying for bottom feed, I also shorten the insulator too so the height from the atty base to the end of the 510 connection is .170" (which is what my Ciscos measure). I don't like my atties to be any longer than .180" & with using an oring in the catch cup. Most of mine measured over .19" new & I don't like how it crushes the gaskets.

I suspect eirther the 510 post was too long and the gaskets on the Reos got damaged if you screwed it on all the way without an oring in the catch cup (not likely to cause it not to function at all though, or the coil is shorting, or a coil screw is loose or not making connection. I find that on some Squids the thumbscrews for the coil get loose cause the thread tolerance is poor (loose threads) & I would have to use pliers to tighten them down securely. Defeats the purpose of having thumbscrews & is one the reasons why I stopped using them.

EDIT: Looking more at the pics it looks like the screw heads are bottomed out? That would seem like an issue but then again it does look like you have the coil munted under the screw heads? I use set screws so there is no head to prevent improper contact if using the wire holes in the posts.
 
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lizardnipples

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DZ always coming to the rescue!

I got this one figured out, being the super modder that I am. :D I ended up using a small flat head screw driver to ease out the center pin on the atty just a little. Maybe half of the head of the center pin is showing now. That seemed to be enough to finish making contact. I found an old flat head type screw that was long enough to secure the coil legs while being short enough not to make contact with the top cap. I'll vape this for a day or so, but I see myself putting the RM2 back on anyway. I've already pulled the top cap off a few times when trying to take out the drip tip which is a little annoying. Also, it's harder to build than the RM2. At least it was a $10 atty that I wanted to play around with so I'm not out much and I learned a few things along the way!

Again, thanks to everyone that tried to help. But I guess I really didn't expect anything less from the Reoville peeps!

I'll try to actually have a tough question next time! :)
 
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