Oh, I'll remember to test the wicks! Good idea. :Sheepish: I'll get around to it.
eRolls with SS wicks...
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Is anyone torching their SS mesh after rolled until its black? Anyone had one drop on their coil while vaping? Thanks.
Yes, you do need to oxidize the mesh or it will short out.
Holding it with a pair of pliers in a bic lighter until it glows red, then letting it cool seems to do the task nicely.
I've noticed an increase in juice consumption with the SS wicks, but I guess that makes sense, more vapor produced must equal more juice being used.
Holding it with a pair of pliers in a bic lighter until it glows red, then letting it cool seems to do the task nicely.
I've noticed an increase in juice consumption with the SS wicks, but I guess that makes sense, more vapor produced must equal more juice being used.
If you're lazy (like me 
), the pre-rolled wick stock from VaporKings is also pre-oxidized, ready to cut. Its not easy to find, but just search on their site for the word "DIYATOM", they have both 325 and 400 mesh, and the raw mesh stock for those who want to "roll their own" ...
), the pre-rolled wick stock from VaporKings is also pre-oxidized, ready to cut. Its not easy to find, but just search on their site for the word "DIYATOM", they have both 325 and 400 mesh, and the raw mesh stock for those who want to "roll their own" ... 
Today i made my first ss mesh wick 400,size 40x6mm...around paperclip like in tutorial...i have vape good,but taste is little metalic?!why?
I did 3 times,oxidise before and after rolling,3times,put liguid and burning that,size 27x7mm...and i am not satisfied with result:bad taste,vapor:-(((
I dont want use ss mesh wick-i order fiber silica wick 2 mm to make my own wicks
I bought a sheet of 400 mesh and washed it with soap and water before cutting and shaping - no metallic taste here. Also, I barely oxidize with a Bic lighter for fear of Chromium VI.
I have no trouble with shorting and I'm positive the wick has touched the coil. I do experience leaking, but I just put up with it for now. It could also just be old attys - most are over a year old!
I have no trouble with shorting and I'm positive the wick has touched the coil. I do experience leaking, but I just put up with it for now. It could also just be old attys - most are over a year old!
I'm sure my SS wicks are contacting the coil on some rebuilds, doesn't seem to be a problem ...
A couple of older attys have started to allow seepage to the batter contacts in the Elips, so I added a silicone o-ring, problem solved ...
I think these coils might last for a really long time. The only one I lost so far was due to mishandling, I detached one end of the coil accidently ...
I do wish I could figure out why some re-wicked attys last for weeks, and other get crusted and burnt within hours ...
Did notice that if the alcohol soak doesn't remove all of the stain in the ceramic chamber below the coil, it will taste burnt on the first few draws. Started using those soft plastic dental floss brushes to scrub away the baked on juice, and so far those are holding up ...
This is what I did to rewick two attys last night ...
Soaked the attys in alcohol overnight.
Removed the spike end with smooth-jawed pliers.
Checked to be sure there was no burnt residue in the ceramic chamber below the wick.
Stuck in a length of pre-rolled and pre-oxidized 2mm 325 mesh SS wick stock (from VaporKings).
Trimmed the bottom end to about 2mm below the bottom of the spike.
Grasped the spike in pliers and pushed the coil cylinder onto it.
Used sharp wire cutters to trim the outside end of the wick to the angle of the spike.
Poked a sewing needle through the center of the wick to open a channel (good advice learned here on ECF).
Primed the wick with 15 to 20 drops of juice.
If it wicks up the juice quickly, its good to go, If not, I open it up and try again ...
All four of mine now have mesh wicks. The ekowool was good - probably could've been as good a vape as mesh with some tweaking - but the mesh is easier to get right, and more reliable, I think.
I rest the mesh on the coil. The oxidisation will stop it shorting out the coil, and juice transfer to the coil should be better than if there's a gap. At the tank end, I cut the mesh at an angle so it's just sticking out of the spike a little bit - if it's cut too short, so that when pushed back in it leaves a gap at the top of spike, then I think maybe an air bubble could get caught there.
Apart from rolling mesh myself, much the same as rico does.
I rest the mesh on the coil. The oxidisation will stop it shorting out the coil, and juice transfer to the coil should be better than if there's a gap. At the tank end, I cut the mesh at an angle so it's just sticking out of the spike a little bit - if it's cut too short, so that when pushed back in it leaves a gap at the top of spike, then I think maybe an air bubble could get caught there.
Apart from rolling mesh myself, much the same as rico does.
I'm convinced now that having an open channel through the SS wick is essential, made by gently pushing a sewing pin through the new wick just before re-assembling the atty ...
Can't remember who suggested that, but Thanks !
Yesterday I had one that I had "pinned", and one that was rolled too tight to push a channel through the center of the wick. The one without an opening burnt before lunchtime, the other is still going ...
It must be the combination of mesh and the flow of juice through the channel that regulates a near-perfect delivery to the coil ...
Can't remember who suggested that, but Thanks !
Yesterday I had one that I had "pinned", and one that was rolled too tight to push a channel through the center of the wick. The one without an opening burnt before lunchtime, the other is still going ...
It must be the combination of mesh and the flow of juice through the channel that regulates a near-perfect delivery to the coil ...
I don't have the manual dexterity anymore to roll a good wick, so I bought them pre-rolled and pre-oxidized (VaporKings)...
Just getting them through that spike hole is enough of a challenge ...
I do wonder at what point the atty would begin to flood, if the center channel in the wick were larger. Just before that point should be the best wicking, and the best vaping ...
I made ss wicks but taste is metalic...so now i made only silica fiber with mesh wicks
How the hell are you guys rolling wicks that fit in the atomiser? I did my 3/4inch in length, but even if I roll it tightly it doesn't fit.
I dunno! After rolling it tight on a paperclip, I roll it a little just between my fingers (without the paperclip) to make it fit. Once it's in, I open out the hole again. Did that little bit of mesh that's around the stock wick come out with the wick? What grade / thickness of mesh have you got? Since 28mm of 400 grade fits even with almost a 1mm hole down the middle, so there's probably something we could put you right on, if we could only guess what it was!
eGo-C Atomizer Head Re-Wick Tutorial - YouTube -- was my guide when I started
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