EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

[MrByte]

Oh how I love challenges.......

Sorry to .... in but I believe CAPEcads (originally My) solution works for both chips "E" or not -- mine are "not" and it has worked perfectly -- so I passed it along.

Ah, the True Culprit™ shows up ;-)

If it works, use the snot out of it, is my motto. The chips are similar, the circuit design appears to work on the TI as well, or at least it doesn't fry it, and it's simpler and smaller than a FET.

All this speculation and Java's results prove one truism: One test is worth 1000 opinions. ;-)

Would a capacitor in line with the fire switch filter any spikes to the inhibit pin? Is there even a possibility of a spike? That's one thing I can think of that would cause problems.

 

[CapeCAD]

Oh how I love challenges.......

Sorry to .... in but I believe CAPEcads (originally My) solution works for both chips "E" or not -- mine are "not" and it has worked perfectly -- so I passed it along.

Sorry I did not credit you with that, I did use a standard version (Positive logic) on the Coolgate, not an E version.

The important thing to watch out for with the PTR08100 is to not exceed the -125uA current draw on the inhibit pin. TI recomends against tying this pin directly to Vin to prevent exceeding this limit.

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

What's that symbol that has the arrow pointing up/right?

That's a current source (load) with a variety of user setable fuctions that one can place in a circuit to help simulate it under a load.

Thanks CAPEcad - I was willing to keep it our little secret but now that the cats out of the bag .......

 

[SurvivorMcGyver]

Ah, the True Culprit™ shows up ;-)

.................Would a capacitor in line with the fire switch filter any spikes to the inhibit pin? Is there even a possibility of a spike? That's one thing I can think of that would cause problems.

Perhaps a discrete diode? I donno, But I'm ordering a couple 8100's to play with.

 

[MrByte]

Sorry I did not credit you with that, I did use a standard version (Positive logic) on the Coolgate, not an E version.

The important thing to watch out for with the PTR08100 is to not exceed the -125uA current draw on the inhibit pin. TI recomends against tying this pin directly to Vin to prevent exceeding this limit.

LED and resistor into the inhibit after the switch?

Perhaps a discrete diode? I donno, But I'm ordering a couple 8100's to play with.

If you're getting samples, they're on backorder. I got the 8060's for that reason, though the 8100's when I checked were B/O mar 8th.

 

[rchriste]

LED and resistor into the inhibit after the switch?



If you're getting samples, they're on backorder. I got the 8060's for that reason, though the 8100's when I checked were B/O mar 8th.

I ordered 2 samples from Ti a while back (8100's). They said at the time they were on back order till sometime in May. Then today I got an email that they shipped this morning.

 

[squirrel64]

Could someone please simplify how to use the inhibit (#1) pin to use a tactile switch. I have read this thread so many times and it seems that when the discussion came up in prior posts, it starts veering in a different direction and I get lost. An explanation and small schematic would help immensely. (eg),,, why NC switch... Thanks in advance for all the electronically challenged amongst us.

 

[Java_Az]

Could someone please simplify how to use the inhibit (#1) pin to use a tactile switch. I have read this thread so many times and it seems that when the discussion came up in prior posts, it starts veering in a different direction and I get lost. An explanation and small schematic would help immensely. (eg),,, why NC switch... Thanks in advance for all the electronically challenged amongst us.

I will give it a try. Pin #1 will put the regulator to sleep /standby when it is connected to a ground. A NC switch is Normally Closed meaning it is basically on in off position it is letting current threw when not pressed. When you push the button it stops current from going threw it. So while the button is pressed pin #1 is not getting a ground and the regulator wakes up or turns on .You would hook any old ground to one side of the switch and the other side goes to pin #1. Here is a simple schematic i whipped up real quick just shows the pin#1 and a NC switch

 

[squirrel64]

Thanks Java,,,, so am I wrong in understanding that the use of a tact switch(wired as per your diagram) in combination w/master on/off is sufficient for this unit. Was there a certain reason why bigblue chose the bigger 3+a switch.

 

[squirrel64]

Note: To build it exactly like the schematic blue posted, you MUST substitute a 3 amp, normally open (N/O) momentary switch for the N/C switch. Otherwise, you simply wire the N/C switch in series with pin 5 on the chip, to ground (or the negative battery terminal/outside of the battery connector/pin 3 of chip)

I used the N/C switch, as there is less current flowing through it, and, IMO, a N/C switch with minimal current "SHOULD" last a little longer than a N/O switch with 2 amps flowing through it. Just my opinion, not proven.

Going back I think that's my answer

 

[Java_Az]

I think mainly he Chose the 3 amp switch because it conserves power. If you use the inhibit pin it will drain a constant 1 mA when in standby mode. Adds up to 3.6 amps every hour which is not too bad. If you use a direct switch when the reg is off it is completely off no current drain. Direct switch might not last as long since it is taking alot of amps . If a NC switch fails your unit will be stuck on. So they both have good points and bad. If i remember right somewhere in this thread is a schematic for using the inhibit pin. If you use the original Big Blue schematic you don't have to change much, instead on running the power threw a NO switch you just run it straight to the #2 pin/ strip. Then pin #1 goes to a NC switch and the other end goes to a ground.

Master power switch is always a good idea and it even helps out more with the inhibit pin since you can shut the unit off when going to bed or your not going to using it for awhile and not get that 1mA drain.

 

[squirrel64]

cleared up many questions java...... Thanks so much

 

[MrByte]

I got my Digi-Key order in, had to go get another multi-meter as mine has bitten the big one. Gotta love Harbor Freight, though, 4.99 for a decent meter right now, 6.99 if you want the backlit version.

Getting ready to run the stuff on a breadboard now.

 

[jufreese]

National has an IC out now that doesn't require an Inductor. Free samples too.

 

[Java_Az]

National has an IC out now that doesn't require an Inductor. Free samples too.

The ptr08100w module doesnt require a inductor to be added on since it has one soldered to it already. What chip are you talking about ? I can't say i have seen a high efficiency switching regulator that doesn't require a inductor so i would be interested in checking out the data sheet on this chip your talking about.

 

[MidnighToker]

This may have been covered earlier in the thread and I missed it.

Has anyone had issue with the TI circuit still draining with the output open (momentary is on positive output)? Left box overnight with 2 RCRs still @ 3.6. One was completely dead on morning.

 

[Java_Az]

This may have been covered earlier in the thread and I missed it.

Has anyone had issue with the TI circuit still draining with the output open (momentary is on positive output)? Left box overnight with 2 RCRs still @ 3.6. One was completely dead on morning.

With the momentary switch on the output that means the unit is always on. Which means your burning about a constant 40mA. Thats adds up to about a 144 amps total a hour. For me that would add up to about 10-12 vapes off the PV. This is where Switching regulators pretty much suck Low or no amps drawn the efficiency goes way down. They are great when under a nice load like while vaping. Your really better off slapping the momentary switch on the input side of the regulator and save yourself a 144amps wasted every hour of the PV not being in use.

 

[MidnighToker]

With the momentary switch on the output that means the unit is always on. Which means your burning about a constant 40mA. Thats adds up to about a 144 amps total a hour. For me that would add up to about 10-12 vapes off the PV. This is where Switching regulators pretty much suck Low or no amps drawn the efficiency goes way down. They are great when under a nice load like while vaping. Your really better off slapping the momentary switch on the input side of the regulator and save yourself a 144amps wasted every hour of the PV not being in use.

Thanks. Kinda figured that was the issue. Switching the momentary to the input kinda screws up future plans, but I can work around that.

 

[Jair]

Just finished mine
Pics tomorrow when I'm not so tired.
It's itty bitty Here is the box I put it in
1551LBK Hammond Manufacturing Enclosures, Boxes, & Cases

 

[jufreese]

outputs as high as 6v