EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

[rchriste]

Thanks!
This version requires a screwdriver to get inside . Next rev I'm hoping to replace the screws with magnets.

I see what you're talking about. I was thinking more about adjusting the voltage. You don't need a screwdriver to do that part with. I use a panel mount pot for that very reason, I don't want to carry a screwdriver around with me to adjust the voltage. 3-4 hours isn't so bad for the size here.

I can't comment about pushing higher voltages cause I have my R values such that I get a range from 3.8v to 4.8v only cause with my liquids nothing tastes good to me above 4.8v It helps that you're using the 10A version over the 6A version at the higher voltage but I can't testify as to if it will fry over time or not. People over clock stuff all the time with more cooling so I'd look at how hot the chipset is getting at 6v Out. If it's not getting hot then it seems like it might last at 6v.

Can you really vape at 6v? Or are you thinking about going with HR attys? I'm curious..... <grin>

Edit: On second look, I see you're using the 6A version in this mod and the 10A version is for your next project. Still... if it's running cool at 6v...................

 

[Minus1724]

take 2 , on the Evercool

 

[drewk302]

That looks awesome, NICE work! Can you give us some insight on the switch setup?

 

[Minus1724]

That looks awesome, NICE work! Can you give us some insight on the switch setup?

hope you can use it.

 

[drewk302]

Thats great thanks!

 

[theECB]

Minus1724, nice idea on the atty as button! Brilliant!

 

[Minus1724]

Minus1724, nice idea on the atty as button! Brilliant!

Thanks, the Good thing is that it's not using a lot of space. and you can make the hole a lot smaller than i did. I had a 3amp push button there before with 16mm. Thread,so i had to make an adapter.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

 

[theECB]

Ah, I see, that's an adapter you used to gap the hole. Well I do appreciate the idea. Not sure I am ready for an evercool but I will for sure incorporate this idea into my next touch switch mod. Thanks again!

 

[Ruppy]

OK all Ive been trying to figure this out on my own but it seems I have come to a roadblock...... Ive been working on a copper tube mod for awhile. I finally got my circuit assembled adn upon putting it all together I had some issues. All of them have been corrected except for one. My voltage is not adjusting. I am getting 5.3 volts steady no matter where the pot is set. If I measure resistance across the pot it is adjusting. I checked the 220 ohm resistor and it is good. Ive checked continuity in the ground and it seems to be good.

a question

• Does it matter which leg of the pot goes where or just that I use one end and the wiper?

BTW I am using the circuit on the first page. I am also using electroytic caps but I dont think that has any bearing on my issue.

Id love some ideas.....

 

[rchriste]

Does it matter which leg of the pot goes where or just that I use one end and the wiper?

Yes and no. It will work either way but one end will give you a low to high clockwise and the other will give you low to high counter-clockwise. (one end and the wiper / other end and the wiper) If you're using one end and the wiper like you say, it's correct but may or may not be counter-intuitive.

Double check the pad runners on the circuit board and make sure you cut them where needed and that they read open. That's all that's coming to mind to me right now. If nothing else, it'll keep you busy till someone else throws an idea at you. <grin>

This was one example of cutting the foil runners

Others have successfully used electrolytic caps. If you get the polarity reversed they'd likely pop and you'd know it so I think you're right about them not being the issue.

Just thinking out loud here.... Is it possible that one or more of the issues you corrected earlier on may have damaged a component or two.... or three? You didn't elaborate on those issues.

I hope you find your problem Ruppy.

 

[Ruppy]

Yes and no. It will work either way but one end will give you a low to high clockwise and the other will give you low to high counter-clockwise. (one end and the wiper / other end and the wiper) If you're using one end and the wiper like you say, it's correct but may or may not be counter-intuitive.

Double check the pad runners on the circuit board and make sure you cut them where needed and that they read open. That's all that's coming to mind to me right now. If nothing else, it'll keep you busy till someone else throws an idea at you. <grin>

Just thinking out loud here.... Is it possible that one or more of the issues you corrected earlier on may have damaged a component or two.... or three? You didn't elaborate on those issues.

I hope you find your problem Ruppy.

I have double checked the cuts. That was on my top 5 list

The original problems I had were
I somehow got a NC switch instead of NO. I figured that out REAL quick lol. Replaced with a 3amp c&k
I started with a 470ohm resistor on the adjust loop to test until I picked up a 220.

After these were corrected I replaced both caps, the POT and completely re-soldered the interconnect board.

I am starting to think either my chip was faulty or I somehow killed it. I even went to the length of soldering every hole in each row together to make sure that I have contact.....

I am assuming that using electrolytic caps shouldnt matter? They are 16v 100uF caps. The data sheet does say electrolytic are acceptable

and finally thanks for the reply.

 

[rchriste]

I have double checked the cuts. That was on my top 5 list

The original problems I had were
I somehow got a NC switch instead of NO. I figured that out REAL quick lol. Replaced with a 3amp c&k
I started with a 470ohm resistor on the adjust loop to test until I picked up a 220.

I don't think your original problems would have caused any damage. I'm at a loss but if I think of anything to check, I'll post. Sorry I couldn't help Ruppy.

 

[breaktru]

A silly question Ruppy, did you use the center tap of the pot and one outer tap or did you use the two outer taps? That's what it sounds like, you used the pot as a fixed resistor.

 

[rchriste]

I am assuming that using electrolytic caps shouldnt matter? They are 16v 100uF caps. The data sheet does say electrolytic are acceptable

Yes and no <giggle> As long as they meet the Max ESR at 100kHz. That's the purely resistive component of the caps impedance. Personally, I don't see it as an issue here. I'm assuming that the folks that have successfully used the electrolytic caps in this thread were just grabbing them 'off the shelf' (as it were). Unless I'd "POP'd" them, I would probably focus elsewhere. My 2 cents (no refunds)

 

[rchriste]

A silly question Ruppy, did you use the center tap of the pot and one outer tap or did you use the two outer taps? That's what it sounds like, you used the pot as a fixed resistor.

I have great admiration and respect for you breaktru. You've kept me from killing myself for more than 5 months now. <grin>

I think his output would be more like 3.2V if he'd used that configuration. I'm assuming a 220 ohm fixed resistor and a 200 ohm pot and I don't know what r value Ruppy used for his pot. Ruppy... what is the r value of your pot? If the pot were 30 ohms and used as a fixed, that would yield a 5.3V output.

Now... I'm thinking... if the pot were shorted.... with a 220 ohm fixed r value AND if the resistor were off by 10 percent making it 242 ohms... that might output 5.3V. Actually it should be more like 5.4V but it's close.

No, I don't think my theory here is right either. For the heck of it though... Ruppy, measure the resistance of your 220 ohm resistor and see what it's actual value is.

I remember when I was tinkering with this thing that I did actually get 5.5V with 220 fixed and 0 variable.

EDIT: I take that back... I was using the 240 ohm fixed resistor as prescribed on the data sheet.

It's as if the resistance on the VoAdjust were somehow fixed at 250 ohms.

ANOTHER EDIT: Ruppy... Remove the power supply and also measure the total resistance from pin 5 to ground. Also, measure it while you're rotating the pot. What does that give you for a total r Value? Does it vary as you rotate the pot when measured from pin 5 to ground? and if so, what are the min and max resistance values on your meter?

 

[breaktru]

Your right rchriste, I should have checked the chart before shooting off my mouth, in this case my finger typing. Looks like he has 251 ohms across Pins 3 and 5 of the regulator.

Edit: Actual resistance and not rated ohmage with +/- tolorence

 

[rchriste]

Looks like he has 251 ohms across Pins 3 and 5 of the regulator.

I think Ruppy's reply with his resistance readings will be revealing to us..... I hope anyway. <giggle>

It's gotta stink being so close to having the thing working, yet so far. I feel for him.

Plus... we gotta get this figured out so we can all see his copper mod!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm assuming we're going to get pic's when it's working, right Ruppy?

 

[breaktru]

Come on Ruppy, I'm dying here. Ya killin' me and rchriste!

 

[Ruppy]

Sorry was at lunch. I will check the exact resistance when I get home from work in about 2 hours. Ill also post a pic of the chip as it is now and the body I have been working on.

Thanks so much for the insight guys. I spent soooo much time on the tube and now to not be able to figure out my error on the chip is killing me. I have never had this much trouble on a mod before. The sad part is I know it is something silly.


BTW worse case scenario I have a 8060 chip i can swap out and I have another 8100 that will arrive tomorrow with a pile of 4050 boosters

View attachment 33581


And you guys are exactly right. Its just like fixed resistance. I cannot seem to figure it out. Maybe a few picks and some meter readings you will have some ideas

 

[breaktru]

Tip, take the photos as you progress on the mod instead of like stupid me, taking it apart after completion. I always rush things trying to get a working mod.