EverCool Variable Voltage Mod

[warbdan]

I got my samples in! *Evil Mad Scientist Laugh* Now, the fun begins. I'm excited about this one as I like 3.7v most of the time and 5v to handle the cravings. Now I can carry one mod I picked up a 4050 booster and a 5v regulator while I was at it. I've got work to do!

 

[bigblue30]

if you were to "over-engineer" this what would be a better cap to use, 220uf 16v... 100uf 35v...

Be careful not to "over-engineer" it too much. The cap on pin "2" is tied across the battery. Too big of a cap will look like a "dead" short until it charges to battery voltage, this could cause the battery protection to trip. For this cap I would stay at 100uf, but you could safely increase the voltage rating "up" with out any problems. Same thing for the cap on pin "4" that is tied across the output of the chip.

Can SMD caps and resistors be used?

As long as they have the same ratings....no problem.

 

[bigblue30]

I got my samples in! *Evil Mad Scientist Laugh* Now, the fun begins. I'm excited about this one as I like 3.7v most of the time and 5v to handle the cravings. Now I can carry one mod I picked up a 4050 booster and a 5v regulator while I was at it. I've got work to do!

If you are like me....Once you build the evercool the 4050 and 5 volt stuff will just collect dust.

 

[warbdan]

I have to order the variable resistor, zzzzzzzzzzzz. Knew I was forgetting something.

 

[Gizmo362]

I have a bunch of 500 ohms I could send you one..15 or 20 turns, blue square

 

[givesuhe11]

I have the 200ohm and 2000ohm (for the TI PTH08080wah/was) both are model 3296...I'll send 1-2 if you need... PM me if so...

 

[givesuhe11]

I have a bunch of 500 ohms I could send you one..15 or 20 turns, blue square

hey Gizmo... wanna trade? I'll send a 200 or 2k ohm for a 500ohm... just in case I need one in the future, then I won't have to wait for an online order. In fact anyone want to trade some stuff? I have five 200ohm, five 2kohm potentiometers, one PTR08100, two PTR08060's same as the PTR08100 except 6a thus a lower profile, fits in a tighter space, one PTH08080wah, its 2.25a and way smaller than either of the previous two, it has posts underneath as opposed to tabs/pins sticking out front (it requires the 2kohm potentiometer)... I've been running all three, (PTR08100,PTR08060, PTH08080), in different boxes with different batts and have had no problems, I have about a dozen more but paid for them, (not samples) so I'm gonna try and sell those in mods later. I also have three IRLZ34N mosfets, dozens of resistors many flavors... I'll trade for just about anything but what I really want is one of those 1s6s battery voltage checkers... I cant find them anywhere in the US... and dont trust HK ordering, got burned too many times. I also wouldnt mind some PCB to cut into the sections I need, I forgot the technical term they're called. (cue willyb, lol).

Let me know either here or in PM!

GuH11

 

[o4_srt]

Bigblue (or anyone else)... educate me... what other caps could be used? I just got a boxload of electonic parts and gizmos... hundreds of assorted caps... resistors... switches... led's... etc... if you were to "over-engineer" this what would be a better cap to use, 220uf 16v... 100uf 35v... and tons of others. Can SMD caps and resistors be used? I also got some usb chargers and chargers out of PCC boxes from blu ecig and volcano ecig boxes, I'm going to try and incorporate these into the mod too. I have an 8 point slider switch too... gonna try it with set resistors preset voltages. 24volt to 12volt converter... people in an electric wheelchair could vape with an evercool passthrough plugged in... cool!!

just make sure your cap on the input is not tantalum. The data sheet specifically points out that an electrolytic or ceramic cap must be used on the input. Tantalum is fine on the output.

 

[WillyB]

just make sure your cap on the input is not tantalum. The data sheet specifically points out that an electrolytic or ceramic cap must be used on the input. Tantalum is fine on the output.

Reading datasheets is always a good idea, but trying to sort through exactly what TI recommends is way beyond my understanding. Especially how it all relates to our use, driving a simple resistive load from a pair of Li-Ion batteries.

I think in this case we can assume bigblue's choice of standard dipped tantalums work just fine. I'll defer to his judgment every time. I'm sure he has thoroughly tested his design and continues to 'field test' it everyday, when he's not using his SmokeStik off course.

But if someone wants to try caps from the datasheet these Panasonic's are available, but I have no clue how the different different values, 330 or 180uF, affect the end result. They are recommended for both input and output.

Digi-Key - P11235-ND (Manufacturer - EEU-FC1V181)

Digi-Key - P10273-ND (Manufacturer - EEU-FC1E331)

 

[givesuhe11]

I like my "Free" capacitors... I have a BUNCH of old computers and components... i.e. motherboards, video network modem cards... cdrom dvd burners... I have been using capacitors and switches and led's and wires and everything off these things and I haven't had any trouble... plus friends just gave me a box full of stuff I mentioned in an earlier post... I've been using 100uf 10v, 100uf 16v, 100uf 35v, 220uf 16v... all sorts of combinations, for days on each and encountered no problems... they're all electrolytic and/or aluminum similar, to what willyb linked to... I was askin if there was any that would be better than the 100uf 16v in the sense of was that the bare minimum bigblue was recomending. But on the pdf theres a table (13 I think) that lists some do's and don'ts caps to use/not recommended. I don't have those particular manf caps but I tried them all to see what worked and what didn't... they all have worked so far... (on breadboard). But when I put it in a box to be a mod I only use the ones bigblue said to use... "100uf 16v".


these are two boxes I made, they have micro tactile switches with mosfets, (from TI: CSD16325Q5C DualCool N-Channel NexFET Power MOSFET) one is using 18650's and the other 18350's batteries. The little box (18350's) has the PTR08060 and the Big MamaJama EverCool (18650's) has the PTR08100. Yes those are syringe mod atty's... who need a juice box when you can go around vaping 4.5ml ALL DAY LONG!! 2400mah, 3.1v to 5.5v AND 4.5ml's and I'm good.

(You Know You Want It...Who Wants One?)

Is this a better pic?

YES!!

 

[Gregg]

First off I need to thank BigBlue for this mod and all the help he puts into the thread, also all the others who are more electronically fluent lending there knowledge and help.

I need to know about the caps which I have, same ones as Blues. Have 6 of them, some have a long and short leg but also some are equal. I know that they have to be installed correctly with the negitive legs together, but how do you tell what's what? Does the "+" on the labelling the correct pole? If so is this the way they are standerdly marked? Thanks much.....

 

[warbdan]

Yes, the leg on the side with the black stripe is negative.

 

[Gregg]

I guess what I have are dipped caps and not barrel type, do the dipped also have the black stripes? Don't have them with me so will check when I get home. Thanks for the reply Warbdan!

 

[bigblue30]

First off I need to thank BigBlue for this mod and all the help he puts into the thread, also all the others who are more electronically fluent lending there knowledge and help.

I need to know about the caps which I have, same ones as Blues. Have 6 of them, some have a long and short leg but also some are equal. I know that they have to be installed correctly with the negitive legs together, but how do you tell what's what? Does the "+" on the labelling the correct pole? If so is this the way they are standerdly marked? Thanks much.....

If the caps are like mine... then the + leg has a very little + sign on that side.

 

[Gregg]

Yes the same yellow dipped caps, so will use them as marked. Thank you much Blue!!

 

[warbdan]

I have some 100uf 16v electrolytic caps laying around here. Will they work as well? I was also wondering, do they need to be low ESR? I didn't see any low ESR mention in this thread.

 

[grantemsley]

I have some 100uf 16v electrolytic caps laying around here. Will they work as well? I was also wondering, do they need to be low ESR? I didn't see any low ESR mention in this thread.

Yeah, they will work. That's what I used in mine. We don't need quite as good power regulation as these things are designed for. So even if the caps are outside of the specs recommended in the datasheet, they still work just fine for our purposes. It may work just as well without the caps, or at least without the output cap. But I haven't tried that.

 

[warbdan]

Cool, thanks.

 

[warbdan]

Did anyone else get an email from TI about samples for this UCC28950PW unit? Is it anything useful to us? If not, I'm not going to waste their time to send it to me.

 

[grantemsley]

Did anyone else get an email from TI about samples for this UCC28950PW unit? Is it anything useful to us? If not, I'm not going to waste their time to send it to me.

Not really much use to us. For starters, it appears to require several dozen additional parts to run it.