Evercool VV with USB charger/pass-through
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This is what I see so far. You have already been there I am sure.
The Ego passthrough charges a single 3.7v battery and you can vape on it while it is plugged in to the USB and it will charge between puffs.
I have never touched a Tekkeon mod but I know it has 2 lithium batteries and you can vape on it, plug it in to a USB, and charge the batteries. I don't know if you can do it simultaneously. I think you can. I don't know if the batteries are in series or parallel. I may be wrong. I think you can do that on the Darwin too.
I want to learn/figure out how to build a variable voltage mod (up to at least 5 volts), with the battery efficiency of the evercool, that you can vape on, and then plug in to a USB for a re-charge. If I could leave it plugged in to the USB and vape on it while it is charging, then that would be awesome.
I don't mind taking drained batteries out and charging them on a separate lithium charger because I already do that. With some practice and testing on a breadboard, I am pretty sure I can build my own evercool mod and I do plan to build one soon. I just want to take it a step further with built-in charging. I realize it may be totally out of my league but that is my goal.
Maybe I don't know what to look for, maybe there is nothing commercially available on the market yet to make it easier for a newbie like me get it done. I do believe it can be done. It is just a matter of figuring out how.
The Ego passthrough charges a single 3.7v battery and you can vape on it while it is plugged in to the USB and it will charge between puffs.
I have never touched a Tekkeon mod but I know it has 2 lithium batteries and you can vape on it, plug it in to a USB, and charge the batteries. I don't know if you can do it simultaneously. I think you can. I don't know if the batteries are in series or parallel. I may be wrong. I think you can do that on the Darwin too.
I want to learn/figure out how to build a variable voltage mod (up to at least 5 volts), with the battery efficiency of the evercool, that you can vape on, and then plug in to a USB for a re-charge. If I could leave it plugged in to the USB and vape on it while it is charging, then that would be awesome.
I don't mind taking drained batteries out and charging them on a separate lithium charger because I already do that. With some practice and testing on a breadboard, I am pretty sure I can build my own evercool mod and I do plan to build one soon. I just want to take it a step further with built-in charging. I realize it may be totally out of my league but that is my goal.
Maybe I don't know what to look for, maybe there is nothing commercially available on the market yet to make it easier for a newbie like me get it done. I do believe it can be done. It is just a matter of figuring out how.
Thank you, it couldn't happen without what you have already taught me. You are a true expert and I value everything you have to say!
You could just use this.
LiIon-18650-7.4V-Tenergy-2200mAh-Rechargeable
Add a jack and then use this.
Universal-Smart-Charger-for-LiIon-and LiPO
LiIon-18650-7.4V-Tenergy-2200mAh-Rechargeable
Add a jack and then use this.
Universal-Smart-Charger-for-LiIon-and LiPO
Thanks for the idea. Sorry you felt invisible. So you are saying the charger would be separate from the device? My ultimate goal would be to be able to take it anywhere and charge it by USB without a separate device.
Same thing I said in post 2 & 4. Sometimes I feel invisible.
Like Craig said, the easiest build would be a 4050C booster with an 18650 battery. Breaktru did a nice booster mod here.
His version will get you below the 5V that the 4050C is rated for but the range will be a little more limited. He notes on his web site that with the 18650,
DC cartos will work on this mod. With a single cell mod you can use the guts from an Ego usb charger that won't take up too much space in the mod.
His version will get you below the 5V that the 4050C is rated for but the range will be a little more limited. He notes on his web site that with the 18650,
DC cartos will work on this mod. With a single cell mod you can use the guts from an Ego usb charger that won't take up too much space in the mod.
I use Geda to design my circuits. It is a free cad software for linux. To make the boards i use a laser printer with photo paper , it is called the toner transfer method. The QFN chip i use a rework station to do, which is basicly just a hot air gun with temperature control. Everything else is hand soldered.
Since everything is so small it helps to have one of these
Definitely need good magnification to do this stuff. I use a 10x stereo microscope. My close vision is too far gone to use anything else. I have a set of 5x magnifiers, but still not enough for me when doing the smaller chips. I can use them for the bigger stuff though.
Using a multi-cell charger with a battery pack would do the job, but The OP wants USB so it's not his ideal solution. When he gets it working, it will be something unique. Haven't yet seen anyone do USB charging with a dual batt mod, at least not from what I've come across here at this point.
Very nice job on those PCBs Java_AZ. I thought they were manufactured. My home-brew PCBs don't look nearly that nice. What type of photo paper do you use for laser transfer?
Using a multi-cell charger with a battery pack would do the job, but The OP wants USB so it's not his ideal solution. When he gets it working, it will be something unique. Haven't yet seen anyone do USB charging with a dual batt mod, at least not from what I've come across here at this point.
Very nice job on those PCBs Java_AZ. I thought they were manufactured. My home-brew PCBs don't look nearly that nice. What type of photo paper do you use for laser transfer?
I believe the eGo charger simply runs in parallel with the battery. Li-Ion chargers are basically just a current limited voltage source so it doesn't matter whether it hits the current limit in charging a battery or whether it hits the current limit in energizing an atomizer. With a single batt and a real basic charger that does not utilize any programmed safety features, it can just run in parallel regardless of load, no fancy switching required.
My single batt mod sends a disable signal to the charger controller when powering the atomizer, but it's an advanced controller programmed with several safety features. The controller's programming can get confused by the sudden change in current demand otherwise.
All I know about that mod is it's based on a production unit designed for portable USB charging and uses two 18650 batts. The unit handles the charging of both batteries safely so charging dual batts via USB is not something that's never been done before. As far as what I've seen on the forum , it just hasn't been done by anyone here and posted.
The Darwin uses a single 3.7V LiPo flat cell and I expect it can charge and vape at the same time.
That's called passthru charging and it's standard equipment for any mod I build. It's totally do-able with dual batts and it should be possilbe without intricate PCB work.
One of things that passthru charging gives you is options in battery configuration. You can use just about any battery you want, round, flat, single, pack, whatever your charging circuit can handle. So, if you want to build a mod that uses a pack instead of removable cells. Passthru charging gives you that option.
It's going to be a challenge for you, but that's most of the fun in doing this stuff, overcoming the challenge and using your own device of your own design. I think 90% of success is simply perserverance. Don't' give up and eventually, you'll get something going.
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Why are you calling it "passthru charging". Seems you are now co-mingling two distinct functions. What are you passing thru to? Are you passing thru the current to fire the atty? Or is this the same system like the Ego USB Battery? Basically the ability to charge while vaping?
Don't get mad at me, it's not my choice of terminology 
It seems anything that can charge and vape at the same time is called a passthru. The only way it would be "pass through" in the dictionary sense is if the charger was fully powering the atomizer. No passthru does that except battery-less ones and then they aren't charging a battery anyway.
It seems anything that can charge and vape at the same time is called a passthru. The only way it would be "pass through" in the dictionary sense is if the charger was fully powering the atomizer. No passthru does that except battery-less ones and then they aren't charging a battery anyway.
Thanks , I use some photo paper i got from my dad don't know where he bought it at but it does work great i get 100% transfer of the toner. It is made by HammerMill called Jet Print Photo , multi-project photo paper 7mill 150g/m2. Not Sure how much the toner has to do with it but i use a Brother printer with stock toner cartridges. What you use to etch for sure makes a difference in the quality of the board. Too strong a mix will etch the toner along with the copper so you get a rough looking board. I use H2o2 3% and muriatic acid at a 2 to 1 ratio. It is slow but effective. The hydrogen peroxide and muriatic acid mix is also considered green you don't need to take it to a hazardous waste dump when your done
Thanks, excellent info.
I use Feric acid and get those rough edges you're talking about. It's fast, but it's definitely harsh. I'm using Staples photo basic gloss #471865. I'm using an old HP laser jet on the paper. I seem to get a good thick transfer, but I do have a little trouble with the toner chipping off from the copper on ocassion. I can't do trace pitches finer than .65mm. When doing boards with chips that use .5mm pitch pins, I have to pay to get them manufactured.
How are you tinning your boards, BTW?
I use Feric acid and get those rough edges you're talking about. It's fast, but it's definitely harsh. I'm using Staples photo basic gloss #471865. I'm using an old HP laser jet on the paper. I seem to get a good thick transfer, but I do have a little trouble with the toner chipping off from the copper on ocassion. I can't do trace pitches finer than .65mm. When doing boards with chips that use .5mm pitch pins, I have to pay to get them manufactured.
How are you tinning your boards, BTW?
I was reading about the laser transfer for salt water copper etching and several people said they got better transfer from the thinnest Sunday newspaper advertisements (glossy thin newsprint) over using overhead transparency film (less missing spots or chipping), but they have to soak it in water and peel and rub the paper in stages, soaking in between.
When you use photo paper are you doing an iron-on and lift? or soak and peel?
This stuff works pretty good.
I was playing around with UV curable solder mask today. Seem to work pretty well but takes a bit of trial and error to get it right.
I soak the photo paper in water for about 10 minutes and it peals right off.
Hmm, tin in a bottle, what will they think of next
Solder mask too? Wow, that's going all the way with it. Love to see a pic of one or your finished boards with solder mask.
I've read of other ways to transfer patterns and other methods of etching, but the method I've been using seems to work pretty good and it's not terribly difficult so that's what I've been doing. Though, I should probably try a better etching solution.
I tried transparency film sold specifically for laser transfer on PCBs at one point. I get better results with the photo paper. Just soak it for a few minutes and it peels right off. Though I still need to use a soft brush under warm running water to remove residue the paper leaves behind.
The paper I use has a more dull side and more glossy side. I actually print on the more dull side of the paper. The toner sticks too good to the more glossy side. I recently read an article where someone was using label backing sheets, like the kind they put address labels on. Might have to try that one.
What I'd really like is a printer that allows me to print directly on the circuit board. I thought of attempting to modify something, but never looked into it. If someone makes one, it would be worth it if it's not terribly expensive.
Oh, BTW, sorry for taking this thread so far OT the.vapyre, but on the the other hand, you may want to put all or part of your mod on a PCB. It really makes working with electrical/electronic stuff a lot easier.
Solder mask too? Wow, that's going all the way with it. Love to see a pic of one or your finished boards with solder mask.
I've read of other ways to transfer patterns and other methods of etching, but the method I've been using seems to work pretty good and it's not terribly difficult so that's what I've been doing. Though, I should probably try a better etching solution.
I tried transparency film sold specifically for laser transfer on PCBs at one point. I get better results with the photo paper. Just soak it for a few minutes and it peels right off. Though I still need to use a soft brush under warm running water to remove residue the paper leaves behind.
The paper I use has a more dull side and more glossy side. I actually print on the more dull side of the paper. The toner sticks too good to the more glossy side. I recently read an article where someone was using label backing sheets, like the kind they put address labels on. Might have to try that one.
What I'd really like is a printer that allows me to print directly on the circuit board. I thought of attempting to modify something, but never looked into it. If someone makes one, it would be worth it if it's not terribly expensive.
Oh, BTW, sorry for taking this thread so far OT the.vapyre, but on the the other hand, you may want to put all or part of your mod on a PCB. It really makes working with electrical/electronic stuff a lot easier.
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No appologies necessary to me. I feel humble compared to you guys. It just shows me another thing I should look in to that I didn't know anything about before a week ago. I am sure you realize how advanced you are designing and etching your own PCBs! DIY artistic printed circuit boards from a laser printer that actually work! IMPRESSIVE! That could make things so much easier too! You remind me of Thomas Edison but of our time.
On another note, I realize all this so far has been research on my part. I need to do some hands-on experiments now. I have collected just about all the tools and parts I need to get started. TI agreed to send me 5 evercool samples FOR FREE! THANK YOU TI! I have a lot of experiments I plan on performing just to learn what I am dealing with.
BTW, my Dad worked at TI since the 1960s before I was born, on military projects, and retired from there in the late 1990s.
On another note, I realize all this so far has been research on my part. I need to do some hands-on experiments now. I have collected just about all the tools and parts I need to get started. TI agreed to send me 5 evercool samples FOR FREE! THANK YOU TI! I have a lot of experiments I plan on performing just to learn what I am dealing with.
BTW, my Dad worked at TI since the 1960s before I was born, on military projects, and retired from there in the late 1990s.
Hmm, tin in a bottle, what will the,y think of next
Solder mask too? Wow, that's going all the way with it. Love to see a pic of one or your finished boards with solder mask.
I've read of other ways to transfer patterns and other methods of etching, but the method I've been using seems to work pretty good and it's not terribly difficult so that's what I've been doing. Though, I should probably try a better etching solution.
I tried transparency film sold specifically for laser transfer on PCBs at one point. I get better results with the photo paper. Just soak it for a few minutes and it peels right off. Though I still need to use a soft brush under warm running water to remove residue the paper leaves behind.
The paper I use has a more dull side and more glossy side. I actually print on the more dull side of the paper. The toner sticks too good to the more glossy side. I recently read an article where someone was using label backing sheets, like the kind they put address labels on. Might have to try that one.
What I'd really like is a printer that allows me to print directly on the circuit board. I thought of attempting to modify something, but never looked into it. If someone makes one, it would be worth it if it's not terribly expensive.
Oh, BTW, sorry for taking this thread so far OT the.vapyre, but on the the other hand, you may want to put all or part of your mod on a PCB. It really makes working with electrical/electronic stuff a lot easier.
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