EVIC-VT 75W mini Firmware Ver 3 and 1.0Ohm

[Harryinny]

Is it correct that version 3 firmware allows the use of the 1.0 ohm heads for mouth to lung inhale on TC setting? I bought one from Ebay with the updated firmware and just want to make sure that what was posted about the mod using the 1.0 heads in TC is true. I did order the CLR heads at 1.0 and they did not way what wire is used. I am buying the toolkit to make coils soon and wire for 1.0 is my main goal.

Thanks.

 

[KenD]

Is it correct that version 3 firmware allows the use of the 1.0 ohm heads for mouth to lung inhale on TC setting? I bought one from Ebay with the updated firmware and just want to make sure that what was posted about the mod using the 1.0 heads in TC is true. I did order the CLR heads at 1.0 and they did not way what wire is used. I am buying the toolkit to make coils soon and wire for 1.0 is my main goal.

Thanks.

As long as you use tc capable wire, yes.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[Harryinny]

As long as you use tc capable wire, yes.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

Thats the thing, as far as i know, the 1.0 heads are SS, is there a color that the wire should be to distinguish it from kanthal sp? Like the SS wire will be silver and the others are a different color?
Just wondering so when they arrive i can have a looksee. Worst that can happen is i burn the cotton in TC mode with them and will know they need new and different coils put in them.

 

[KenD]

Thats the thing, as far as i know, the 1.0 heads are SS, is there a color that the wire should be to distinguish it from kanthal sp? Like the SS wire will be silver and the others are a different color?
Just wondering so when they arrive i can have a looksee. Worst that can happen is i burn the cotton in TC mode with them and will know they need new and different coils put in them.

Titanium, kanthal, ss etc are all roughly the same color. What tank are you talking about? I'm assuming the Tron or Ego One Mega as you mentioned clr coils. The regular .5 and 1 ohms coils are kanthal I believe, not stainless steel.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[GeorgeS]

On the CLR heads I simply removed whatever wire Joytech included (it would of been helpful if they mentioned what kind of wire it was) and wrapped my own coil with my choice of wire.

 

[Harryinny]

I contacted them, and am awaiting a reply. I mean the only thing i really need to know, if these are not SS316 or whatever the Evic Mini can handle now, what Wattage and what voltage should i use for the 1.0ohm heads with 70/30 vg/pg? If they are not SS this info would be of great help. Right now i am still using my EVIC 60W VT 5000m mod. I do not expect these to get here too quick since i used Ebay and PayPal.

If i would have known, that in a link i was sent someplace here that that store accepted PayPal, i would have bought the heads there. My biggest thing is, i think the SS316(i think it is) heads on Joytechs site are for some other tank, maybe a TRON if thats even a tank? Man i hope not because of the money invested in the heads i have already. If it comes to it i will have to buy a toolkit and some(whatever gague SS wire) and try my hand at my own coils when the dry burn cleaning method is futile.
Thanks for all the help, and again, any info in Wattage and voltage for a 1.0ohm head that's probably kanthal sp? wire would be super helpful. most of my exp is with 2.5ohm heads and an iTaste 2.0 with Kanger Pro tank 2 mini.

 

[edyle]

Thats the thing, as far as i know, the 1.0 heads are SS, is there a color that the wire should be to distinguish it from kanthal sp? Like the SS wire will be silver and the others are a different color?
Just wondering so when they arrive i can have a looksee. Worst that can happen is i burn the cotton in TC mode with them and will know they need new and different coils put in them.

What happens with mine is it eventually kicks itself out of vt mode and into wattage mode. It's done that with a couple of my kanthal coils; I suspect if it sees the ohms actually go down instead of up when you fire the button, that might be one criteria it uses to decide if to switch from vt mode to wattage mode.

The version 3 firmware has a temperature mode for stainless steel, as well as a tcr option.

 

[cobalt327]

the only thing i really need to know, if these are not SS316 or whatever the Evic Mini can handle now, what Wattage and what voltage should i use for the 1.0ohm heads with 70/30 vg/pg?

First, as for what the coil is made of, I'd guess Kanthal first and some form of stainless steel second. The reason I picked Kanthal first is because I'm not aware of any TC heads that are 1 ohm- all I've seen have been lower resistance if they were made for TC. What you can do is set the mod to POWER, adjust the wattage to 12 watts and hit the fire button. If the coil is Kanthal, the ohms shown on the display will not change much if any. If you see the ohms jump from 1 ohm to, say, 1.15 ohms when you hit the fire button, you'll know you're dealing with some type of stainless steel.

As far as what wattage and voltage to use, in POWER mode the VTC Mini will set the voltage itself depending on what wattage you choose to vape at. To be on the safe side, I would start out at 12 watts and work up or down from there. There is no exact setting for this- it depends on a LOT of factors- so don't be afraid to try different wattages until you hit on what feels right-for YOU.

Lastly, take a look at the Coil wrapping calculator at Steam Engine.

Good luck.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Is it correct that version 3 firmware allows the use of the 1.0 ohm heads for mouth to lung inhale on TC setting? I bought one from Ebay with the updated firmware and just want to make sure that what was posted about the mod using the 1.0 heads in TC is true. I did order the CLR heads at 1.0 and they did not way what wire is used. I am buying the toolkit to make coils soon and wire for 1.0 is my main goal.

Thanks.

As I recall, the CLR heads are only made with either Titanium for TC or Kanthal for power mode. The Ti heads are 0.4 ohm so you have the Kanthal heads.
(I'm not seeing any new ones to go with the new Tron tank release)

Rebuild them with whatever TC-able wire you prefer.

The 3.0 update did up the limit for TC. It's now 1.2 or 1.5.
It will probably kick out of TC mode if the res rises above the limit, but it's probably not easy to fit that high a build into the little CLRs. But SS or perhaps NiFe is the way to go if you want 1.0 or so.

 

[Harryinny]

The version 3 firmware has a temperature mode for stainless steel, as well as a tcr option.

You are right. Mine says BETA version, is that right? But i am going to update it off of the Joytech site anyways just to make sure its the finale release.

As far as what wattage and voltage to use, in POWER mode the VTC Mini will set the voltage itself depending on what wattage you choose to vape at. To be on the safe side, I would start out at 12 watts and work up or down from there. There is no exact setting for this- it depends on a LOT of factors- so don't be afraid to try different wattages until you hit on what feels right-for YOU.

I did notice that it was wattage and not volts, i get confused sometimes since i stopped using my iTaste lol. Thanks for the info it will help.

As I recall, the CLR heads are only made with either Titanium for TC or Kanthal for power mode. The Ti heads are 0.4 ohm so you have the Kanthal heads.
(I'm not seeing any new ones to go with the new Tron tank release)

I am thinking they are the Kanthal CLR heads, they have not arrived and it will be awhile since they are from overseas. I use Ti heads as of now for TC mode but do like the results i am seeing with the SS. As for the SS heads i am talking about, they are for the CUBIS, Very nice looking and i want one LOL i was trying to avoid getting a new tank but it sure looks cool. Now if they come out with a rebuildable head i am all set lol. But with my luck that will not happen.

Thanks all for all the info. I need to watch the vids on this TCR mode, its all new to me.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

As for the SS heads i am talking about, they are for the CUBIS

Oh, okay.
I've looked a little at the Cuboid and not at all at the Cubis.
I don't normally associate that tank with the VTC.
They're each sort of paired mod & tank, marketing-wise.

On that topic... does the Cubis use the CL/CLR heads?
I honestly have no idea what it uses.
(yes, I got the Mega tank with my VTC, not a bad, if modest performer)

eta: I see you say "if they come out with a rebuildable head", so I'll take that as a no.

 

[ThaFuzz]

Cubis rba dropped a couple weeks ago. They do not use clr heads, they use cubis bottom fed heads.you can buy clr ti heads(red o rings , gold pin) &nickel (ni200, blue orings,gold pin), standard is kanthal (black orings ,steel pin), i bought standard clrs and stole the gold pin from the ni200 head that came with the vtc mini/ ego kit. the vtc mini will run 1 ohm coils in tc mode(mine are in rdas) but fitting them in the clr is going to be tricky. Use smaller gauge wire (<28awg) &make 2mm or smaller coils.i built mine 2mm 26awg ss316 .5 ohm coils

 

[Harryinny]

Cubis rba dropped a couple weeks ago. They do not use clr heads, they use cubis bottom fed heads.you can buy clr ti heads(red o rings , gold pin) &nickel (ni200, blue orings,gold pin), standard is kanthal (black orings ,steel pin), i bought standard clrs and stole the gold pin from the ni200 head that came with the vtc mini/ ego kit. the vtc mini will run 1 ohm coils in tc mode(mine are in rdas) but fitting them in the clr is going to be tricky. Use smaller gauge wire (<28awg) &make 2mm or smaller coils.i built mine 2mm 26awg ss316 .5 ohm coils

Without buying a new tank, How could i make a SS316 that will read 1.0ohm with the use of the smaller holed (mouth to lung) CLR heads? I mean by the time i run out of the 1.0 heads after a couple cleanings each and re wickings, is there a tank out that is like the eGo ONE Mega that has rebuildable SS316 1.0 mouth to lung heads that is beginner friendly?
I honestly have no idea what you ment in the reply about switching stuff out, then again this is new to me and i want the draw of a cig in a sub ohm tank.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I don't think I could fit it with my 26g 316, but @CorallineAlgae may know what you need.
He's done more with SS on the CLRs than most, and has done high res builds as well.

Let's see if he'll pop in.

eta: forgot to say... you should go play around with the numbers at Steam-Engine or any other coil builder app/site and see what looks workable.

 

[ThaFuzz]

Without buying a new tank, How could i make a SS316 that will read 1.0ohm with the use of the smaller holed (mouth to lung) CLR heads? I mean by the time i run out of the 1.0 heads after a couple cleanings each and re wickings, is there a tank out that is like the eGo ONE Mega that has rebuildable SS316 1.0 mouth to lung heads that is beginner friendly?
I honestly have no idea what you ment in the reply about switching stuff out, then again this is new to me and i want the draw of a cig in a sub ohm tank.

The kangertech subtank mini will give you the mouth to lung like analogs that your looking for with a bigger deck to build high resistance coils on.the coil calculator i use comes up with 5 wrap 32awg 2mm 1ohm coils that should fit in a clr head no problem. The part i referred to switch out joyetech calls the conecting base, i switched it because it has slightly larger air holes (im a lung hitter)if you're a mtl vaper dont worry about it.

 

[sofarsogood]

VTC mini is my daily driver. WIth the lastest firmware it fires up to 1.5 ohm in TC mode. When I build my target is 1.25 ohm. Higher ohm coils convert power into heat more efficiently. Low ohms put more stress on the battery because more power is drawn to produce a given amount of heat.

 

[Harryinny]

I don't think I could fit it with my 26g 316, but @CorallineAlgae may know what you need.
He's done more with SS on the CLRs than most, and has done high res builds as well.

Let's see if he'll pop in.

eta: forgot to say... you should go play around with the numbers at Steam-Engine or any other coil builder app/site and see what looks workable.

Will message this person and get some pointers if they would like to help. But last time on was Jan 27th so we will see. Thanks.

The kangertech subtank mini will give you the mouth to lung like analogs that your looking for with a bigger deck to build high resistance coils on.the coil calculator i use comes up with 5 wrap 32awg 2mm 1ohm coils that should fit in a clr head no problem. The part i referred to switch out joyetech calls the conecting base, i switched it because it has slightly larger air holes (im a lung hitter)if you're a mtl vaper dont worry about it.

Now when you say 5 wraps, 32awg 2mm coils you are saying to try those(they are SS316?) and install them in the CLR Mouth to lung heads i ordered? Or are you saying to use them in the sub tank mini. I have a mess of kanger stuff. Love their products and would not hesitate to buy another. Thanks for the reply.

VTC mini is my daily driver. WIth the lastest firmware it fires up to 1.5 ohm in TC mode. When I build my target is 1.25 ohm. Higher ohm coils convert power into heat more efficiently. Low ohms put more stress on the battery because more power is drawn to produce a given amount of heat.

Have a question, I re wicked a Ti coil, using it on my new Mini and its locked in at .54, but it jumps to .90 when i fire it up in TC mode without hitting it. Is this normal? My mod says 3.0 Beta, should i upgrade to the final release on the site?
EDIT: Did the upgrade myself and it is no longer saying Beta YAY.

Thanks all for the wonderful help you are giving me. Selling the eVic VTC 60w 5000 on ebay now, so i will have a little bit of $$ to mess around with a couple of new things.

 

[Harryinny]

I did the update from Joytech site and the mod says v 3.0 now.
Least i got rid of the Beta lol.
Thanks again all.

Harry

 

[edyle]

Have a question, I re wicked a Ti coil, using it on my new Mini and its locked in at .54, but it jumps to .90 when i fire it up in TC mode without hitting it. Is this normal? My mod says 3.0 Beta, should i upgrade to the final release on the site?
EDIT: Did the upgrade myself and it is no longer saying Beta YAY.

There are 2 answers to that question:
1: I am going to assume that the resistance if you just press the button and watch the screen with your eyes instead of taking your eyes off the screen to take a vape, will increase upwards from 0.54 to almost double.
That would just be normal operation.
2: if the ohms literally jumps from 0.54 to 0.90 that would not be normal operation; screw might need tightening.

 

[Harryinny]

There are 2 answers to that question:
1: I am going to assume that the resistance if you just press the button and watch the screen with your eyes instead of taking your eyes off the screen to take a vape, will increase upwards from 0.54 to almost double.
That would just be normal operation.
2: if the ohms literally jumps from 0.54 to 0.90 that would not be normal operation; screw might need tightening.

It does jump straight to .90 if i push the fire button and watch the screen. Weird thing is, the coil is not burning the cotton. Just incase, to what screw are you referring to?

Harry