eVic-VT mini?
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I currently have 2 Minis in my hands, both upgraded to fw 2.00. A funny thing is that their serial numbers only differ by 2 but the one with lower serial has hardware 1.00 and the other is 1.02. Don't know what to make of it... Was there a single 1.01 or none at all? Do they randomly put in boards with different hw versions in the factory? Or are the serial numbers shuffled? Heh 
The following observations have been made using the 1.02 with TFV4 tank and dualcoil RBA base.
At first I had a 28GA nickel build (3mm ID, 8-9 wraps I think) which registered as 0.08Ω. Locked it and all was good. A day or two later it showed 0.07, working weaker. I raised power/temp as a workaround, later had some success with re-locking while coil was a bit warm (got 0.08 again). By re-locking I mean: unlock, remove tank, fire without tank, put the tank back on (re-seat if the device shows different resistances -- yes, it does that!), lock. But it seemed that the resistance didn't want to stay there. Today I don't know, what or how was done, but the problem kinda went away, so in the end I found myself at 40W/200°C and not having to worry about the resistance daily.
A couple of days ago I rebuilt the base with 26GA SS316L (3mm ID, 8 wraps per coil) and locked at 0.3Ω. When I woke it up next time, it showed 0.28Ω -- vapour was almost non-existant. So I struggled with re-locking for a while which didn't help permanently (or I just couldn't hit a "good" resistance). I wasn't satisfied with changing settings over and over either -- especially when I had to decrease wattage, which is a pita -- and went online searching. Ended up trying (skeptically although) the firmware reflashing procedure described on a fasttech thread by a user named ummi93 (Temperature Issue?: FastTech Forums). After that I got the resistance locked at 0.29 and got a steady vape. I cannot confirm if it had anything to do with reflashing or locking to 0.29 instead of 0.3. After sleeping the device sometimes still showed 0.28 but then jumped to 0.29 and the vape was OK. I didn't put much effort in testing this setup with the 1.00 device. Made only a couple of tries with resistance falling by 0.02 upon picking it up the next time and returned to 1.02 device.
Today I decided the wick was worn out and switched to my second dual RBA base I had already prebuilt with same wire and wraps as above. Then I decided to put the tank on 1.00 device. This setup first registered as 0.32Ω and got locked as such. After the first wakeup it showed 0.3 (as I actually expected) and gave lousy vapor of course. I let it sit for a while and then re-locked to 0.31.
So now I plan to go through the re-locking hassle again and if that doesn't result in a good compromise, reflash this device too to see if it actually changes anything at all or if my "success" can be only attributed to finding a good compromise in resistance. Will update in a couple of days...
The following observations have been made using the 1.02 with TFV4 tank and dualcoil RBA base.
At first I had a 28GA nickel build (3mm ID, 8-9 wraps I think) which registered as 0.08Ω. Locked it and all was good. A day or two later it showed 0.07, working weaker. I raised power/temp as a workaround, later had some success with re-locking while coil was a bit warm (got 0.08 again). By re-locking I mean: unlock, remove tank, fire without tank, put the tank back on (re-seat if the device shows different resistances -- yes, it does that!), lock. But it seemed that the resistance didn't want to stay there. Today I don't know, what or how was done, but the problem kinda went away, so in the end I found myself at 40W/200°C and not having to worry about the resistance daily.
A couple of days ago I rebuilt the base with 26GA SS316L (3mm ID, 8 wraps per coil) and locked at 0.3Ω. When I woke it up next time, it showed 0.28Ω -- vapour was almost non-existant. So I struggled with re-locking for a while which didn't help permanently (or I just couldn't hit a "good" resistance). I wasn't satisfied with changing settings over and over either -- especially when I had to decrease wattage, which is a pita -- and went online searching. Ended up trying (skeptically although) the firmware reflashing procedure described on a fasttech thread by a user named ummi93 (Temperature Issue?: FastTech Forums). After that I got the resistance locked at 0.29 and got a steady vape. I cannot confirm if it had anything to do with reflashing or locking to 0.29 instead of 0.3. After sleeping the device sometimes still showed 0.28 but then jumped to 0.29 and the vape was OK. I didn't put much effort in testing this setup with the 1.00 device. Made only a couple of tries with resistance falling by 0.02 upon picking it up the next time and returned to 1.02 device.
Today I decided the wick was worn out and switched to my second dual RBA base I had already prebuilt with same wire and wraps as above. Then I decided to put the tank on 1.00 device. This setup first registered as 0.32Ω and got locked as such. After the first wakeup it showed 0.3 (as I actually expected) and gave lousy vapor of course. I let it sit for a while and then re-locked to 0.31.
So now I plan to go through the re-locking hassle again and if that doesn't result in a good compromise, reflash this device too to see if it actually changes anything at all or if my "success" can be only attributed to finding a good compromise in resistance. Will update in a couple of days...
Has anyone checked if the firmware can be updated using Wine under Linux? I've got an earlier h/w revision of VTC Mini and couple of reels of SS wire on the way and just realized that none of PCs around here have Windows left, not even the laptops. 
I quite like the Mini though, despite mine arriving with slightly loose 510 threads and with a 510 pin that soon got stuck in the lowest position. It's basically married to an OrKa base now and seems settled enough in Wattage+kanthal mode.
Once I'm convinced that Joyetech has fixed the 510 issues (they really should be user-serviceable) I'm open to getting another one, although I'd have to sure I won't end up with the overly busy 2.x firmware.
I quite like the Mini though, despite mine arriving with slightly loose 510 threads and with a 510 pin that soon got stuck in the lowest position. It's basically married to an OrKa base now and seems settled enough in Wattage+kanthal mode.
Once I'm convinced that Joyetech has fixed the 510 issues (they really should be user-serviceable) I'm open to getting another one, although I'd have to sure I won't end up with the overly busy 2.x firmware.
i think you can using hex editor,phyton and forgot the other,one user was able to modify the display using such tools...Has anyone checked if the firmware can be updated using Wine under Linux? I've got an earlier h/w revision of VTC Mini and couple of reels of SS wire on the way and just realized that none of PCs around here have Windows left, not even the laptops.
I quite like the Mini though, despite mine arriving with slightly loose 510 threads and with a 510 pin that soon got stuck in the lowest position. It's basically married to an OrKa base now and seems settled enough in Wattage+kanthal mode.
Once I'm convinced that Joyetech has fixed the 510 issues (they really should be user-serviceable) I'm open to getting another one, although I'd have to sure I won't end up with the overly busy 2.x firmware.
thats all i know...
Sent from my Karbonn A30 using Tapatalk
just wanted to share
no programming involved just cellophane or any colored plastic sheet and disassembling
Sent from my Karbonn A30 using Tapatalk
no programming involved just cellophane or any colored plastic sheet and disassembling
Sent from my Karbonn A30 using Tapatalk
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I think the atomizer lock is a misnomer. It doesn't seem to lock the resistance, it just stops it from asking if there's a new coil. Kinda worthless imo.I currently have 2 Minis in my hands, both upgraded to fw 2.00. A funny thing is that their serial numbers only differ by 2 but the one with lower serial has hardware 1.00 and the other is 1.02. Don't know what to make of it... Was there a single 1.01 or none at all? Do they randomly put in boards with different hw versions in the factory? Or are the serial numbers shuffled? Heh
The following observations have been made using the 1.02 with TFV4 tank and dualcoil RBA base.
At first I had a 28GA nickel build (3mm ID, 8-9 wraps I think) which registered as 0.08Ω. Locked it and all was good. A day or two later it showed 0.07, working weaker. I raised power/temp as a workaround, later had some success with re-locking while coil was a bit warm (got 0.08 again). By re-locking I mean: unlock, remove tank, fire without tank, put the tank back on (re-seat if the device shows different resistances -- yes, it does that!), lock. But it seemed that the resistance didn't want to stay there. Today I don't know, what or how was done, but the problem kinda went away, so in the end I found myself at 40W/200°C and not having to worry about the resistance daily.
A couple of days ago I rebuilt the base with 26GA SS316L (3mm ID, 8 wraps per coil) and locked at 0.3Ω. When I woke it up next time, it showed 0.28Ω -- vapour was almost non-existant. So I struggled with re-locking for a while which didn't help permanently (or I just couldn't hit a "good" resistance). I wasn't satisfied with changing settings over and over either -- especially when I had to decrease wattage, which is a pita -- and went online searching. Ended up trying (skeptically although) the firmware reflashing procedure described on a Fasttech thread by a user named ummi93 (Temperature Issue?: FastTech Forums). After that I got the resistance locked at 0.29 and got a steady vape. I cannot confirm if it had anything to do with reflashing or locking to 0.29 instead of 0.3. After sleeping the device sometimes still showed 0.28 but then jumped to 0.29 and the vape was OK. I didn't put much effort in testing this setup with the 1.00 device. Made only a couple of tries with resistance falling by 0.02 upon picking it up the next time and returned to 1.02 device.
Today I decided the wick was worn out and switched to my second dual RBA base I had already prebuilt with same wire and wraps as above. Then I decided to put the tank on 1.00 device. This setup first registered as 0.32Ω and got locked as such. After the first wakeup it showed 0.3 (as I actually expected) and gave lousy vapor of course. I let it sit for a while and then re-locked to 0.31.
So now I plan to go through the re-locking hassle again and if that doesn't result in a good compromise, reflash this device too to see if it actually changes anything at all or if my "success" can be only attributed to finding a good compromise in resistance. Will update in a couple of days...
Well, if it really didn't do anything... how come the vapor production seems to depend on it?
Resistance lock ignores a higher resistance than locked value. If resistance drops more than .02 ohm the device locks in the lower value.
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I am new to this device and temperature control. I recently bought an Evic Mini VTC and I'm using it with a Kanger Subtank Mini with 0.15 Ni 200.
I tried to set the temperature to 240 Celsius and it does not power up enough. Protection mode is activated too soon. I can see the power varying in the range of 2-3 W. How can I make this temperature mode work? It does however work in Power mode.
If temperature control does not work, can I safely use the Ni 200 in Power mode?
Thanks
I tried to set the temperature to 240 Celsius and it does not power up enough. Protection mode is activated too soon. I can see the power varying in the range of 2-3 W. How can I make this temperature mode work? It does however work in Power mode.
If temperature control does not work, can I safely use the Ni 200 in Power mode?
Thanks
Use Kanthal in power mode.
Try letting it cool a bit, unlock resistance, pop battery out, put it back in and re lock. Maybe the room temperature shift messed up its calculations, happens on tc mods.
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Both of the vtc's I've had did not do this when locked. They didn't care if it was less or more than a .02 change, and both of mine absolutely did not ignore increases in res.
When it sees a higher resistance and I fire it it's WAY hotter. I think it's because it's trying to apply its tc algorithm for the higher res when the actual res is much lower. It's a big safety issue when it does this imo.
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Maybe this decreasing base resistance was in fact meant as a safety precaution? I mean when the device detects that resistance is less than before, the logic behind changing the base res value might be that "user probably locked while hot, which might give them dry hits, so let's spare their throats". However I really hope that the true reason behind detecting a resistance drop is not a hardware issue and could be fixed by firmware. Fingers crossed.
.Ok
so who has kept their's as they don't have any issues,
who has swapped for another evic mini and it is working correctly,
who got a refund and bought something else(and what did you buy)
and who is just putting up with it and not using it in tc mide.
Adelaide
so who has kept their's as they don't have any issues,
who has swapped for another evic mini and it is working correctly,
who got a refund and bought something else(and what did you buy)
and who is just putting up with it and not using it in tc mide.
Adelaide
Threads like these are where people who are having problems go to ask questions about their mod. It makes it seem like there is a bigger problem than there is. My guess is, the biggest flaw with the VTC is the 510 connection. I don't know if the positive pin is too deep or the solders are hit or miss, but connection seems like an issue for some people. I haven't tried using a Kanger Subtank, but my VTC TC works perfectly in TC every time with a Lemo, Crown, Starre Pro, and the eGo One. It worked fine with firmware versions 1.2, 1.3, and 2.0.
With the VTC my Crown tank will absolutely suffer from the same anemic vape problem and the same ohm reading jumps that others here have had if the tank isn't screwed down tight. That's what makes me think that the VTC's 510 connection may have something to do with some people's weak vape and ohm jumps. Maybe JoyeTech used a bad 510, but at least for my VTC, it works in TC with every firmware. Whatever the problem ends up being it's probably more mechanical than software related. I'm not saying that software updates won't improve an already working mod, but so many people have had solid performance regardless of the firmware version, and many others have had mods that didn't work with any firmware.
If somebody is having trouble with a VTC not working in TC with all of their tanks I'd return the nod right away. No firmware will solve a mechanical issue and all of the firmware versions work well with a mechanically sound VTC.
With the VTC my Crown tank will absolutely suffer from the same anemic vape problem and the same ohm reading jumps that others here have had if the tank isn't screwed down tight. That's what makes me think that the VTC's 510 connection may have something to do with some people's weak vape and ohm jumps. Maybe JoyeTech used a bad 510, but at least for my VTC, it works in TC with every firmware. Whatever the problem ends up being it's probably more mechanical than software related. I'm not saying that software updates won't improve an already working mod, but so many people have had solid performance regardless of the firmware version, and many others have had mods that didn't work with any firmware.
If somebody is having trouble with a VTC not working in TC with all of their tanks I'd return the nod right away. No firmware will solve a mechanical issue and all of the firmware versions work well with a mechanically sound VTC.
Mine works fantastic. I've had it for over a month now and use it daily. I use it in power mode with kanthal and nickel for TC.
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