eVic-VT mini?
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Well.... After a week of use my vtc have the same problems as the rest of you 
Using it in vw from now on... The TC in this thing is Totally Crazy.
Using it in vw from now on... The TC in this thing is Totally Crazy.
Hi and welcome to the " I wish I hadn't bought a mini" thread. I only get the new/same coil question if I fire an atty unscrew then put back on hot and hold the fire button down. It only detects a resistance change that's higher not lower so a new atty that's cold won't throw it up it just resets the base resistance which is how it's designed. I didn't think it was working for me and I missed the question to begin with as it only shows when you put a warm atty on and immediately hold down the fire button.
Which hardware version is yours?
It works like a mechanical mod only it's regulated. Basically it will fire as much power from the battery as possible through your coil but with the added benefit of not letting the battery discharge below a safe level and entering thermal runaway but given how joyetech can't get temperature protection to work I would not trust this feature imo!
Thank you, Not interested in TC at all to be honest, just want a good solid device for running my gs air-m at 15 watts or there abouts.
Cheers
Yeah sad but true, the irony is that one of its main selling features is firmware upgradability! Think I might have to save up for a DNA 200, gonna wait for pbusardo to finish his trilogy b4 I pull the trigger though.
Kicking myself for preordering the nebox from kanger now as I'm bound to get screwed being an early adopter lol.
Well in that case you won't be disappointed. You going just for the mod or with the mega tank? If you get the tank strongly recommend the clr coils for it.
Well.... After a week of use my vtc have the same problems as the rest of you
Using it in vw from now on... The TC in this thing is Totally Crazy.
Hi, so just to clarify it was working fine in temp with no problems after it woke from sleep? And now it don't?
Well in that case you won't be disappointed. You going just for the mod or with the mega tank? If you get the tank strongly recommend the clr coils for it.
Just the mod, loving the gs air-m tank great flavour, good clouds and suits my needs
Ok I thought I would have one last look at the mini last night b4 I gave up on trying to get temp control working. I decided to strip it down and have a look inside as it's so simple to get apart. Before I go any further though am I right in thinking there are multiple hardware revisions suffering or is it only v1.30. Can we list all the afflicted versions please?
The reason I ask is that if it's only a single revision suffering and it's a fault on the board I would expect to see many more people with these problems but we seem to be a very small minority. If it was a firmware issue i would again expect to see many more complaints about this device spread over all the revisions. But from searching around I've seen only a few cases listed and starting to think this is qc issue from there assembly line, specifically from a soldering stand point when there soldering the 510 on to the board. My thinking is bad soldering = fluctuations in resistances = piss poor performance.
I should have taken some pics but bottom line is when I opened mine up the soldering between the ground lead and the 510 connection is a shocking mess and my 5 year old could have done a better job. I didnt get any further as it was very late and have left it on the bench in pieces. Could this be the culprit I wonder? Any opinions welcome, am I barking up the wrong tree ere? Is the ground of the 510 stainless and if so do I need anything special to attempt a resolder?
The reason I ask is that if it's only a single revision suffering and it's a fault on the board I would expect to see many more people with these problems but we seem to be a very small minority. If it was a firmware issue i would again expect to see many more complaints about this device spread over all the revisions. But from searching around I've seen only a few cases listed and starting to think this is qc issue from there assembly line, specifically from a soldering stand point when there soldering the 510 on to the board. My thinking is bad soldering = fluctuations in resistances = piss poor performance.
I should have taken some pics but bottom line is when I opened mine up the soldering between the ground lead and the 510 connection is a shocking mess and my 5 year old could have done a better job. I didnt get any further as it was very late and have left it on the bench in pieces. Could this be the culprit I wonder? Any opinions welcome, am I barking up the wrong tree ere? Is the ground of the 510 stainless and if so do I need anything special to attempt a resolder?
It worked ok the first day I guess. Then... resistance change.... anemic vape. Mine is hw rev: 1.10, so it seems it affects multiple revisions.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/evic-vt-mini.695518/page-51#post-16680767
I Really hope that is it, it would make sense. If there is a way to remove the plastic center that holds the pin I would do that before you resolder the ground to the 510 barrel. Those have a tendency to melt and usually unscrew so you might need to unsolder the pin wire as well. I would touch up the board connections while I am at it too.
I didn't pull mine apart as I figured there would be a security sticker over a screw like on the IPV products.
Good Luck!
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Check your connections. It might be evic's problem, but i had the same thing happening, only to find out later, that one of my screws in the atty got loose.
Stated it many times here, and it would still make the most sense to me, as i had same problems, when a screw in my atty got loose. Really too bad if all those problems exist because of poor soldering job, on otherwise great device
Actually seeing the pics would help. I would think though that if it was a poor 510 solder point fluctuating resistance would cause a constant issue in tc mode and not just an issue after the unit goes into a sleep mode.
The issues that I am hearing are centered around sleep mode and are almost as if the unit functions perfectly meaning the processor is compensating and adjusting all the temperature variables under all temps and loads until the point when it enters sleep mode while the internal temperature of the board is high due to heat generated during use and power is being deprived to the processor keeping track of the changes when is goes to sleep. At that point the processor is not compensating for resistance changes occurring for the cooling of the board while idle and it is waking under the belief the atty is at a lower base resistance than it actually is. It is initializing TC upon waking from sleep by using the last figures it had in memory of board temperature and calculated current resistance at that point in time, reading current temperature of board and adjusting the old number for calculated resistance to what it should be for current board temperature rather than initializing with a clean board temperature reading and actual atomizer resistance.
Same thing with different attys...We just have to wait and see if a fw upgrade will solve it. Until then, puffin away in power mode
I think it would be helpful if people posting about problems (and those stating no problems) would provide more information about the device (hardware/software revision), atomizer and coil used (packaged vs DIY with ohm reading), temp/wattage settings, and how often it happens. That way the information can be compiled and possibly tested by other users to see if it affects them.
Ok so if everything checks out with ur atty then it appears version 1.10 is on the list too. As far as I can find out this is the latest version too?
Highly recommend the dna200s even after having a Hana V200 board fail. Hana blew me off but Evolv replaced the Board. Kanger Nebox looks to be what I'm looking for in a mod for a long time, but I'm gonna wait for initial reports & Reviews. Hopefully Joyetech will have solved the sleep issue by then & incorporated the Evic vtc control panel into an Egrip TC 10ml model.
Same thing with different attys...We just have to wait and see if a fw upgrade will solve it. Until then, puffin away in power mode
Ok so ruled out possible atty problem so that's interesting that it worked to start with as mine has done it from the beginning. Thinking repeated heating of the board, dry solder joint getting worse?
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