When you update the firmware to 1.20, remember to remove your battery and your atty before connecting the VTC to your computer. That may make a difference. It appears to have helped on some.
eVic-VT mini?
- Thread starter Daisychainvaper
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There seems to be a lot of hardware revisions floating about for such a new device or is that normal? I can say with certainty that firmware v1.20 worked for me but I'm using hw v1.3. The mini seems to play nicer it Ti mode using spaced coils as don't need temp set so high, gotta dual build in the billow v2 that's working better than all my rda's with twisted and contact coils.
I'm reading all the posts here and they do help.
Ti in Ni mode definitely works better using a magma dripper. SS also works in Ti mode to some extent although it lacks 'resolution', it can either be a bit too cool or a bit too warm
Oh and I've finally heard from JT CS, they want me to make a video showing the unit going to sleep and not working well after waking (lol)
My vendor has said I can keep the unit and get a partial refund for the problems which eases the pain a little. I'll do that and hope for a FW fix. I might try my chances with a different unit in a few months and hope JT can iron out the hardware issues in the meantime.
Ti in Ni mode definitely works better using a magma dripper. SS also works in Ti mode to some extent although it lacks 'resolution', it can either be a bit too cool or a bit too warm
Oh and I've finally heard from JT CS, they want me to make a video showing the unit going to sleep and not working well after waking (lol)
My vendor has said I can keep the unit and get a partial refund for the problems which eases the pain a little. I'll do that and hope for a FW fix. I might try my chances with a different unit in a few months and hope JT can iron out the hardware issues in the meantime.
I'D TAKE A DIRECT SWAP FOR A NEW, DIFFERENT UNIT IN THE HOPES THAT IT IS HARDWARE RELATED.I'm reading all the posts here and they do help.
Ti in Ni mode definitely works better using a magma dripper. SS also works in Ti mode to some extent although it lacks 'resolution', it can either be a bit too cool or a bit too warm
Oh and I've finally heard from JT CS, they want me to make a video showing the unit going to sleep and not working well after waking (lol)
My vendor has said I can keep the unit and get a partial refund for the problems which eases the pain a little. I'll do that and hope for a FW fix. I might try my chances with a different unit in a few months and hope JT can iron out the hardware issues in the meantime.
Just ordered mine! Should see it by eow. How's the finish on this? Coming from a rDNA, I'm terrified of using any mod without a sleeve since the rDNA finish is booty.
The finish on my black one is very nice but I got a silicone sleeve from joyetech uk for £2 so it stays that way when out and about with it.
Plug it into a computer with the USB link and fire up the upgrading tool, well, actually just in reverse order (first upgrading program, then USB cable).
You'll see HW and FW versions after a successful link.
Tapatalking...Mind those lampposts!
You'll see HW and FW versions after a successful link.
Tapatalking...Mind those lampposts!
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Got a second one as a replacement to my Istick 50 w that was under warranty from fasttech. Luckily it has no sleep resistance drop issues but........ My two subtank mini's come within a hair of sitting flush and wobble a tiny bit! It works. But that is goin to drive me nuts. Would seem sill to go through all the hassle of sending it back and then possibly get a unit not working right.
Anyone have a fix? Spacer? Screw harder?
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Anyone have a fix? Spacer? Screw harder?
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Ive got a simple fix that might work for you.
It's helped my Subtank mini sit flush on other mods.
It deals with adjusting the floating 510 center pin on the tank.
Remove the tank section.
Leave the base on the mod but unscrew a half turn or so
Unscrew the coil head a few turns, this will allow the 510 center pin to come up some.
Now screw down the base til it's flush
Tighten the coil back down, this will push the center pin back down onto the mod
Put the tank back on
Vape
Hope this helps
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Well, in my case, when I upgraded from 1.02 to 1.10, I had to put in the battery. Plugging the VTC without it once the upgrading program was up and running did not change anything on the computer screen, and the mod started to rant in its screen (flicking), like complaining because it had no battery.
Repeating all the above but with the battery plugged in granted a full uneventful upgrade.....
Naturally, the atomizer was taken away before doing anything, and also the mod was switched off (five clicks to do so).
Well, this is not something that you might find in any etiquette handbook, but it works for me.....
From the mod surface and up: i) hand-made washer, from a bicycle air chamber. Yes, you've read it properly, the cylindrical air chamber inside an unused bicycle tyre, which is flexible enough and soft; ii) Smok 19 mm AFC valve, so you can adjust distances between base atomizer and 510 threads just re-adjusting the 'valve'
With both, you loose some flush and good looking, but you ensure and air-tight connection on your 510, an excellent electrical connection (Smok AFC's are made of chromed brass, and they are cheap, BTW), and you do not force, in any circumstance, the 510 floating, spring-loaded pin, which is still floating, as the core of the AFC effectively floats a little.
I've been told that there are 22 mm Smok AFC available, I just did not find them in my local suppliers. Another benefit would be not to wear the 510 threads, but the AFC's, as brass is softer than stainless steel. In that way, the AFC is a sacrificial connector, even if you consider that the SS threads of the mod are hard enough to withstand normal use.
Needless to say, it works even in TC mode....and the IPV D2 has another one......
You might consider the simplified version of all this, a single 510 drip-tip O-ring to space out (but in an air-tight fashion) your atomizer:
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Just did the oring and it still has a gap but atleast it doesn't wobble. Will try adjusting the pin when the tank isn't so full.
Thanks guys.
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Thanks guys.
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Interesting. Would prevent scratches. Possibly prevent juice leakage from getting into 510 and fix my problem. If only I had 10 friends. Damn sure don't need 10 for myself. Haha
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I only said those because they resembled the previous. I personally use their keplar heat sinks on most my drippers.. annoying adjusting the screws when swapping attys but having multiple fixes that. The "finned" design does a great job at catching leaking juice/ thread saver for brass 510s
They sit flush for longer 510's like the magma, at least in my experience thus far.
They sit flush for longer 510's like the magma, at least in my experience thus far.
I have settled on the Ni setting instead of Ti for now, the Ti setting seems to be anemic 24/7 now for me. HW 1.10, SW 1.20. I also have an iStick 40w (only has Ni mode), and with the 0.5 ohm titanium coil I built in the Subtank Mini it vapes the same at 450F + 40 watts on both devices. Definitely seems to be software related.
Take your time Joyetech, and add Stainless Steel while you're at it. [emoji6]
Take your time Joyetech, and add Stainless Steel while you're at it. [emoji6]
Good idea. I dug out my old box of parts and grabbed one of my Danco #60 rubber washers from Home Depot when I repaired my worn out Vamo/MVP 510 insulator.
No more wobble when using the Subtank Mini! Downside is I have to take it off when using it on the iStick 40w because it leaves a huge gap. A washer of some sort that is easy to remove would be a better solution.
The 'Replacement POM Heat Insulation Gasket for Atomizers (10-Pack)', if it is really made from POM , it's way too hard to act like flexible and air-tight spacer, but it could be doped enough with the proper plastifier oil.....
That same piece, but in neoprene or any other suitable rubberised polymer, would be ideal.
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