I have yet to get a TC build on the mini that would last more than a day, sometimes more than a half hour. I thought it was me not knowing how to build or work with Ni200 coils. Apparently it's not me but something funny with this device. I have tried 28g and 30g twsted, the very first build I put into the Taifun GS II in dripper mode and it seemed to work well except the temp had to be jacked to 520F for a decently warm vape. I thought that was quite odd and reading all over people running 17W at 390F and praising a TC vape to the high heavens... Well 17W and 390F on the mini, you might just as well vape an eVod, it will give you better satisfaction.
I thought it was wicking that was not dense enough in those soft coils. I have used Rayon, Japanese Cotton and Viskose (EU Rayon) all with the same effect. The vape starts off great for a few pulls and then hits the TP wall within a second or two. If you just lightly touch the button the mini shows the coil as still being close to 300F after 30 seconds or so. This just cant be the case, when I dry burn Kanthal for a cleaning it glows red hot and is cool to wick again in minute.
I thought that I would put a Ni200 build in the FeV V3 last night as it is the easiest deck to get access to as its basically just a big two post dripper deck. I wrapped a 28g Ni200 coil on a 6-32 screw for 6 wraps which read 0.08 ohms on the mini, perfect! Locked the resistance in, wicked it with Viskose and prejuiced it with a 50/50 flavorless juice I use to prime coils. I set the mini at 17W and 430F, put the top back on and proceeded to get to wonder ful vapes from this build. Excellent! I filled the tank with a favorite juice and hit nothing but TP within seconds after that... If you know the FeV, the tank just slides down over top of the base and it uses feeder wicks to provide juice so there was no jostling of the base or coil etc...
This build COULD in fact be a juice feed problem since the holes in my mesh straws are quite small. I can only bring the regular 26g 0.8 ohm build up to 25W on Kanthal without verging on a dry hit. So changing the feeder wicks on it might solve that problem, I'll have to play with it this weekend.
I really have no other RTA's that will take a Ni200 build easily, the KFV4 has the spring foolishness, the KFL decks are too small and the Rose V2's would be impossible too wick without destroying the coil IMHO. We won't even think about a dual build in the Big German or the Silverplay.
I have an Aqua V2 in single coil mode that I might try and see how that works.
Drippers I have are the Origen V2, the Origenny V2, a Mutation X V3 and a CCI Militia with 6 drilled holes on each side. So the vertical builds in the Origens are not something I want to try. The Mut and Militia will cut 28g Kanthal so getting Ni200 in there could be a treat.
In my cart on FT I have a Nectar Mini and a Stumpy, both seem like they would be a good deck for Ni200 also I have 28g and 26g Ti wire there as well. Hopefully the FT Chinese Ti wire is alright as I have no local sources.
I don't think it's inexperience, I think it is something strange with the eVic VTC mini... I should take a build down to my local B&M to try on a Vaporshark rDNA40 as well as the IPV D2... I was going to get an iStick 40TC initially but was point towards the eVic as a much nicer unit. With the iStick firing at a locked 40W in TC mode and people saying that it is dead simple to use and provides a great working TC. There has to be a reason behind all the issues people are having with the eVic.
Just my

if anyone sees something I am doing wrong then please let me know.