eVic-VT mini?
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Or if you put it in your pocket and it comes out with change stuck to the back.
It was a great find.
I just found out if you hold the fire and left button for 5 seconds when the unit is off, it will give you the battery voltage.
Still cannot fix the "Protection" problem.. anyone knows how to fix it??
Lets say I set my temperature at 480... while I press the fire button, it will start at 350 > 370 > 395 > 430 ...etc..
when it reaches 480, it'll show "Protection" and stop firing..... It's fine while the device is cool, but after I vape it for 10mins, the device get hot, it can go from 350 to 480 in 0.5 second, then it'll show "Protection". It means I can't vape....please help....anything I use on VT min works PERFECT on my rDNA40....~_~
I hope someone responds with something to fix this soon as well, I have no problems on my Sig 75W, even the STM with the Ni200 coils seem to work fine with that combo, just not on the VTC mini.. Although I was scared that it's a wicking issue and didn't want a dry hit when using the Sig so I didn't take as long a draw as I would've normally.. still, it doesn't seem to hit this temp protection matter.. so annoyed by this!
The only thing I see is that your Attys resistance is not locked into the mod. If it were, there would be a padlock on the screen to the right of the Word Atomizer and the symptoms you describe could result if that padlock is not displayed there.
My wife has been loving the mini with titanium in her STM except for the resistance issue. It will be fine then she will take the tank off and fill it then it will drop from .55 to .51 and will be a weaker vape or it will rise to .59 and be a hotter vape. Thankfully you can adjust between 20 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit to make it back to a desirable vape. It's just annoying, I hope they do something to fix it in a upgrade. And why when you lock in a resistance does it sometimes sag down a couple decimals when it sits for a little while? Once again slightly annoying.
YOU guys are saying it doesn't vape anymore when it reaches protection? It should be stepping down power to maintain temperature at a higher resistance, but still firing at the set temperature. Using nickel I'm guessing? Seems to be a bug in ni mode, although not for everyone.
I believe this is due to the wire "setting" or "sagging" and is normal for nearly all builds, at least to my knowledge this happens with all wires in all attys, only varying in amount of sag.
The nickel CL coil I've been using the last few days has not wavered from .20, suggests the Evic is not doing the resistance drop thing indiscriminately, kinda frustrating and maybe why joytech didn't catch it?
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im gonna try rebuilding a new ti coil on the STM rba base and see if that is more accurate. When I rebuild the stock coils I really dislike how wimpy that grommet is and I wonder if the pressure from the positive pin messes with the reading.
Have tried both locking and not locking the resistance and it doesn't abate the issue.. in fact I can say that there's been an instance where I've locked the resistance of the nickel coil and it drops even further by a decimal or two as you've mentioned above with the wire sag?
Sorry, Troll - I did NOT want to hear you having problems with this device. I hope it gets sorted out.I have yet to get a TC build on the mini that would last more than a day, sometimes more than a half hour. I thought it was me not knowing how to build or work with Ni200 coils. Apparently it's not me but something funny with this device. I have tried 28g and 30g twsted, the very first build I put into the Taifun GS II in dripper mode and it seemed to work well except the temp had to be jacked to 520F for a decently warm vape. I thought that was quite odd and reading all over people running 17W at 390F and praising a TC vape to the high heavens... Well 17W and 390F on the mini, you might just as well vape an eVod, it will give you better satisfaction.
I thought it was wicking that was not dense enough in those soft coils. I have used Rayon, Japanese Cotton and Viskose (EU Rayon) all with the same effect. The vape starts off great for a few pulls and then hits the TP wall within a second or two. If you just lightly touch the button the mini shows the coil as still being close to 300F after 30 seconds or so. This just cant be the case, when I dry burn Kanthal for a cleaning it glows red hot and is cool to wick again in minute.
I thought that I would put a Ni200 build in the FeV V3 last night as it is the easiest deck to get access to as its basically just a big two post dripper deck. I wrapped a 28g Ni200 coil on a 6-32 screw for 6 wraps which read 0.08 ohms on the mini, perfect! Locked the resistance in, wicked it with Viskose and prejuiced it with a 50/50 flavorless juice I use to prime coils. I set the mini at 17W and 430F, put the top back on and proceeded to get to wonder ful vapes from this build. Excellent! I filled the tank with a favorite juice and hit nothing but TP within seconds after that... If you know the FeV, the tank just slides down over top of the base and it uses feeder wicks to provide juice so there was no jostling of the base or coil etc...
This build COULD in fact be a juice feed problem since the holes in my mesh straws are quite small. I can only bring the regular 26g 0.8 ohm build up to 25W on Kanthal without verging on a dry hit. So changing the feeder wicks on it might solve that problem, I'll have to play with it this weekend.
I really have no other RTA's that will take a Ni200 build easily, the KFV4 has the spring foolishness, the KFL decks are too small and the Rose V2's would be impossible too wick without destroying the coil IMHO. We won't even think about a dual build in the Big German or the Silverplay.
I have an Aqua V2 in single coil mode that I might try and see how that works.
Drippers I have are the Origen V2, the Origenny V2, a Mutation X V3 and a CCI Militia with 6 drilled holes on each side. So the vertical builds in the Origens are not something I want to try. The Mut and Militia will cut 28g Kanthal so getting Ni200 in there could be a treat.
In my cart on FT I have a Nectar Mini and a Stumpy, both seem like they would be a good deck for Ni200 also I have 28g and 26g Ti wire there as well. Hopefully the FT Chinese Ti wire is alright as I have no local sources.
I don't think it's inexperience, I think it is something strange with the eVic VTC mini... I should take a build down to my local B&M to try on a Vaporshark rDNA40 as well as the IPV D2... I was going to get an iStick 40TC initially but was point towards the eVic as a much nicer unit. With the iStick firing at a locked 40W in TC mode and people saying that it is dead simple to use and provides a great working TC. There has to be a reason behind all the issues people are having with the eVic.
Just myif anyone sees something I am doing wrong then please let me know.
Thanks cindycated!Sorry, Troll - I did NOT want to hear you having problems with this device. I hope it gets sorted out.
It's all good as it's not just me. I am going to try and get some Ti wire to see what happens and I imagine there will be a firmware upgrade or two released.
How do ya reckon we could contact Joyetech about this @TrollDragon and @piggypinggy?Thanks cindycated!
It's all good as it's not just me. I am going to try and get some Ti wire to see what happens and I imagine there will be a firmware upgrade or two released.
I have not looked to see if they have a forum, I'll have to do that tomorrow.
Once in a while I was having that problem till I LOCKED the resistance, also your atty is tight.
Just updated to 1.1 and everything is running fine.
Kanger Sub Tank Mini 2 black with black O-rings, Gray Pyrex tank glass (darkened glass) from Sweet-Vapes.....I'm liking the total black out look.
Kanger Sub Tank Mini 2 black with black O-rings, Gray Pyrex tank glass (darkened glass) from Sweet-Vapes.....I'm liking the total black out look.
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