Can you give me a complete list of all the issues that affect the vtc so I can test my new unit?
eVic-VT mini?
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The spider silk is holding up great. I just started experience the same TC/RES problems others are describing
. The problem started while I was still running the factory firmware v1.02. I have since updated to the latest version, and the problem persists. Also, even after the firmware update, I've still yet to see the screen that asks me if I'm using a new atty.If you notice when you first hit the fire button, it will flash a temperature, what I'm assuming is the "current temp" of the coil, rather than the set temp. Then you can see it rise, until it reaches your set temp and then you see "protection". Before the problem started, it would flash a low temp somewhere around a hundred I think I even saw it as low as high 70's. After the problem started the initial flash would show just 10-20°below the set temp, meaning it would almost instantly "activate" TC. This is happening even with letting it sit a few minutes giving the coil more than enough time to cool back down a little bit. I've experienced this with both the mega tank with stock TI coil head, as well as my Billow V2 with dual TI coils (.16Ω).
The odd thing is it will happen intermittently. It didn't happen for the first day or 2, then all of a sudden it happened. Then it will operate normal for a while.
My batch# is J08020
Hey all, been busy reading this entire thread, and should note that I am also the proud (perhaps once proud) owner of a VTC Mini. Being around vaping since the old days and am still surprised at the quality of kit for such low prices (I remember being excited at buying a 'Buzz' for 80 bucks).
However, the one thing that has always, and is still, bothering me, is the proliferation of 'spring loaded' 510 connections. I know they are desirable due to device tolerances, BUT, that's all fine and good at relatively high resistance (1.0 - 1.5++) and assuming a high quality very soft, PIN along with a high quality, high spring rate SPRING.
Get down in the low resistance values (<1.0 and especially <0.5) and try and draw high current values through a less than adequate contact, and really, the fact that it even works at all should be a surprise. Add to that attempts to read changing resistance values over changing temperature ranges and attempting to actually calc a temperature from such sketchy data (be much better if a coil probe were used), seems like an effort in futility and frustration. Just a slight change in 'tarnish' on the connections (worsening with each high current draw, then you remove device, reattach, maybe get a better or worse connection from scratching up the tarnish and more confusion is added), will randomly change resistance readings. Getting tenths or hundredths of an ohm change, over such a setup, well, personally I would expect it.
From my perspective, I am surprised it works in TC at all, and claims not withstanding, would never expect it to work consistently down in the sub ohm range. At least not until an actual sensor is placed inside the coil, or much higher quality, non-varying, electrical connections are made. Or, some really sophisticated software is running some serious averaging and near AI like predictive algorithms, with perhaps an external, or board based temperature sensor to use for offsets and calculations. For 30 bucks.
I'm not trying to be negative Nelly here or anything, but I think a more detailed hardware discussion of the methods used needs had. Software can do nothing if the hardware is not reasonably capable of performing the task. At least that what almost 40 years of electrical/electronic/mechanical/computer engineering leads me to believe. 90-95% science, 5-10% magic, that's all you've got to work with.
Of course, YMMV, I tend to over think things, am certainly OCD, and rarely believe a manufactures claims.
Max
However, the one thing that has always, and is still, bothering me, is the proliferation of 'spring loaded' 510 connections. I know they are desirable due to device tolerances, BUT, that's all fine and good at relatively high resistance (1.0 - 1.5++) and assuming a high quality very soft, PIN along with a high quality, high spring rate SPRING.
Get down in the low resistance values (<1.0 and especially <0.5) and try and draw high current values through a less than adequate contact, and really, the fact that it even works at all should be a surprise. Add to that attempts to read changing resistance values over changing temperature ranges and attempting to actually calc a temperature from such sketchy data (be much better if a coil probe were used), seems like an effort in futility and frustration. Just a slight change in 'tarnish' on the connections (worsening with each high current draw, then you remove device, reattach, maybe get a better or worse connection from scratching up the tarnish and more confusion is added), will randomly change resistance readings. Getting tenths or hundredths of an ohm change, over such a setup, well, personally I would expect it.
From my perspective, I am surprised it works in TC at all, and claims not withstanding, would never expect it to work consistently down in the sub ohm range. At least not until an actual sensor is placed inside the coil, or much higher quality, non-varying, electrical connections are made. Or, some really sophisticated software is running some serious averaging and near AI like predictive algorithms, with perhaps an external, or board based temperature sensor to use for offsets and calculations. For 30 bucks.
I'm not trying to be negative Nelly here or anything, but I think a more detailed hardware discussion of the methods used needs had. Software can do nothing if the hardware is not reasonably capable of performing the task. At least that what almost 40 years of electrical/electronic/mechanical/computer engineering leads me to believe. 90-95% science, 5-10% magic, that's all you've got to work with.
Of course, YMMV, I tend to over think things, am certainly OCD, and rarely believe a manufactures claims.
Max
Thanks for the update and sorry to hear it is happening to you as well.The spider silk is holding up great. I just started experience the same TC/RES problems others are describing
If you notice when you first hit the fire button, it will flash a temperature, what I'm assuming is the "current temp" of the coil, rather than the set temp. Then you can see it rise, until it reaches your set temp and then you see "protection". Before the problem started, it would flash a low temp somewhere around a hundred I think I even saw it as low as high 70's. After the problem started the initial flash would show just 10-20°below the set temp, meaning it would almost instantly "activate" TC. This is happening even with letting it sit a few minutes giving the coil more than enough time to cool back down a little bit. I've experienced this with both the mega tank with stock TI coil head, as well as my Billow V2 with dual TI coils (.16Ω).
The odd thing is it will happen intermittently. It didn't happen for the first day or 2, then all of a sudden it happened. Then it will operate normal for a while.
My batch# is J08020
ok s by far having the resistance unlocked gives me better hit on 350f marks which before never was i able to use..
it maybe a temporary fix that you guys can also try,
not sure if it would be the same on ni,but i hope it does
so i tried to vape my cotton dry (or until it turns white,
set right about 380f i was able to and it still does that temp protection thing to avoid dry hits.
@VapingBad your suggestion seems to work ok on ti mode
it maybe a temporary fix that you guys can also try,
not sure if it would be the same on ni,but i hope it does
so i tried to vape my cotton dry (or until it turns white,
set right about 380f i was able to and it still does that temp protection thing to avoid dry hits.
@VapingBad your suggestion seems to work ok on ti mode
Glad to hear it! Perhaps the spring loaded connection is affecting the base resistance so unlocking it allows it to get an accurate reading? Who knows but if it works it works!tried again on a lower temp 300 still satisfied
i dont know the science behind it but it works,
ive always been on the warmer vape side,and a bit of cloud chasing
so this is good as far as both aspects are concerned plus i still get the "stop" sign from the mod if my wick is almost dry,
all thru out the day been changing flavors,and cotton remained white after each vape.
only thing i noticed is the ohms are always going up
i starte at 0.12 ohms then became 0.16 and just now dropped to 0.13
Springs can do that and that with poor atty connections is why res locking become popular with customers, the main reason with board designers is cost, less R&D + can use cheaper 510s & wire.
do you think using a heat sink with a more solid connection shuld improve that?
i mean since its spring loaded,everytime you switch something happens
having a heatsink with a more solid 510 should make a permamnet connection ?
A heat sink would probably make the connection worse as you would then have 2 510 connections. I would only worry if the res is drifting all the time and set the temp to taste. Connection problems cause more probs at the lowest resistance EG say that the 510+ atty + wiring add 0.02 ohm, at 0.5 ohm that is less than 10 F, but on a 0.1 ohm Ni coil 0.02 = 55 F.do you think using a heat sink with a more solid connection shuld improve that?
i mean since its spring loaded,everytime you switch something happens
having a heatsink with a more solid 510 should make a permamnet connection ?
sorry a bit dense again..
do i need to worry,i will say that i am having one of the best vapes ever on this device since i followed your advice
and upon observation,my resistance is always drifting i guess.
for the past hour every time i check it it always gave me a different reading. but often times, it comes back down to either 0.12 or 0.13
(not being fired ofcourse )
should i be worried?
Not if it is vaping well and consistently, always trust your taste buds and experience as a vaper IMO. 0.12 & 0.13 could just be 0.124 and 0.125 with rounding.sorry a bit dense again..
do i need to worry,i will say that i am having one of the best vapes ever on this device since i followed your advice
and upon observation,my resistance is always drifting i guess.
for the past hour every time i check it it always gave me a different reading. but often times, it comes back down to either 0.12 or 0.13
(not being fired ofcourse )
should i be worried?
thanks big time
hopeflly we get a better update
so far your solution was the most simple and works.
sometimes the resistance goes way up that it now ask for the new coil thing every now and then,which i think is ok,versus having a weak vape all the time
Guys..i have the same issue and i decided to rebuild my 4 attys..
3 authentic subtank mini, nickel 28g 0.1-1.6ohm
1 authentic lemo 2 - titanium 28g 0.32
Lock resistance at room temperature but the resistance still jumping all over the place..
Been thinking should i change to other attys or dump this mod to my graveyard box and out of sudden recall vaping turtle will using KF with no temp issue..
Dig out my graveyard box and manage to find old KF and Russian 91..
KF Clone nickel build 0.15
authentic R91 nickel build 0.13
Lock resistance, temperature set at 420 18w..test fire and rest the attys for half an hour..vape for 5 min..yipee, no issue on temp control.
So far i been using both attys for more than 2 hour, no issue at all..
3 authentic subtank mini, nickel 28g 0.1-1.6ohm
1 authentic lemo 2 - titanium 28g 0.32
Lock resistance at room temperature but the resistance still jumping all over the place..
Been thinking should i change to other attys or dump this mod to my graveyard box and out of sudden recall vaping turtle will using KF with no temp issue..
Dig out my graveyard box and manage to find old KF and Russian 91..
KF Clone nickel build 0.15
authentic R91 nickel build 0.13
Lock resistance, temperature set at 420 18w..test fire and rest the attys for half an hour..vape for 5 min..yipee, no issue on temp control.
So far i been using both attys for more than 2 hour, no issue at all..
Well here we go!
I followed the instructions, but never got the new atty message...
The coil is a Ni twisted 30g on 3mm ID for 0.11Ω of goodness.
All wicked and ready for the tank.
Wish me Luck as the settings look good, I am at work and have to go outside to vape so I'll report back.
I followed the instructions, but never got the new atty message...
The coil is a Ni twisted 30g on 3mm ID for 0.11Ω of goodness.
All wicked and ready for the tank.
Wish me Luck as the settings look good, I am at work and have to go outside to vape so I'll report back.
Well I am back to report that the mini reading .11Ω provided the useless anemic vape we have been finding all along...
I can tell things are NOT going to work when I quickly tap the fire button and the starting temperature is anything other than 70F, a failure shows 175F, 190F, 204F etc. So I brought it back in and shut it down, unscrewed the FeV, fired it a few times put the FeV back on etc... I took the battery out and put it back, shut it off on on a few times and so forth.
Then all of a sudden the reading went to 0.14Ω and stayed there, still no ask of a new atty but every time I hit the fire button quickly it was 70F, leave it for a second and 70F again. Back outside for a vape and the mini performed flawlessly! I had to turn the temperature down as it was a little too warm, the vape was very similar to my default 26g 0.7Ω standard Kanthal build in the FeV.
I was happy that this was going to work!
Came back in, got a coffee and the resistance was reading 0.11Ω again... Sneaked a quick vape and it might just have well been an eVod...
While I am typing this I was playing around with and had the mini detect the coil at 0.16Ω buy unscrewing the FeV just till it barely made contact. I screwed the FeV back down, the mini kept the 0.16Ω and it vaped perfectly.
I am done playing with this thing till my Ti wire gets here, I do not have an RTA with a big enough deck to hold a coil of 0.14Ω or larger and I hate building and wicking with 30g.
I can tell things are NOT going to work when I quickly tap the fire button and the starting temperature is anything other than 70F, a failure shows 175F, 190F, 204F etc. So I brought it back in and shut it down, unscrewed the FeV, fired it a few times put the FeV back on etc... I took the battery out and put it back, shut it off on on a few times and so forth.
Then all of a sudden the reading went to 0.14Ω and stayed there, still no ask of a new atty but every time I hit the fire button quickly it was 70F, leave it for a second and 70F again. Back outside for a vape and the mini performed flawlessly! I had to turn the temperature down as it was a little too warm, the vape was very similar to my default 26g 0.7Ω standard Kanthal build in the FeV.
I was happy that this was going to work!
Came back in, got a coffee and the resistance was reading 0.11Ω again... Sneaked a quick vape and it might just have well been an eVod...
While I am typing this I was playing around with and had the mini detect the coil at 0.16Ω buy unscrewing the FeV just till it barely made contact. I screwed the FeV back down, the mini kept the 0.16Ω and it vaped perfectly.
I am done playing with this thing till my Ti wire gets here, I do not have an RTA with a big enough deck to hold a coil of 0.14Ω or larger and I hate building and wicking with 30g.
I've been running ss on my evic vt mini for a day now and it's great. Have a crown tank with the stock 0.25 ss coil. Put it in Ti mode and stayed at 40w and 200°f. Kept increasing the temp till 250°f and I get a satisfying vape.
Well...I'm too lazy/stupid to use TC. (And I've not yet seen convincing evidence that nickle [which is a carcinogen] does not leech into the ejuice.)
So I bought the VTC Mini as a "VW Mod"...based on its size, big screen, replaceable 18650 and upgradable firmware.
To me...$28.89 is not "overpriced"...
http://www.efun.top/joyetech-evic-vtc-mini-express-kit.html
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